Tranny questions....

[ericboutin]

I'm about to tackle my issues with tranny temps...here's what I want to do but I need some info first. I want to come out of the hot line on the tranny and put a Perma Cool trans filter then go into the stock OEM cooler in bottom of rad (this was disconnected long ago by PO) then go into a cooler mounted on front of rad then go back to the tranny. Unrelated I'm also going to install a pusher fan while I've got the grill off to help with A/C issues etc.
Here's my questions:

1. There are two lines coming off the tranny both on the passenger side...one is located in the back and one closer towards the front of the tranny (front of truck) Which of these lines is the hot and which is the return line?

2. Where can a Perma Cool Trans filter be bought? Advance? Napa? And I'm thinking that I would like to mount this closer to the front of the truck (where all the lines are gonna need to be spliced anyway) as long as I put it before the OEM cooler would that be ok?

3. Like I said the stock cooler was disconnected - how do I go about flushing those two ports? With water? And which port is which or does it matter? There is one on the pass side and one on the driver's side on the bottom of the rad.

4. The existing cooler (and right now only cooler) that is there is kinda small...can I buy a bigger cooler and place it in front of the one already there? Basically going from filter to stock OEM cooler to existing air cooler to another cooler then back to the tranny?

Sorry for the long post but I need to go ahead and dive into this before a big trip towing the TT next month.

 

[pafixitman]

Eric,
IIRC, Hot line is in the front by the torque converter. Return lin is the rear. Hot side is pass side on rad, driver side is the return, Stacking them? No I would not. I have two mounted side by side. I would not flush it w/ water. I would use some fluid and compressed air. You should be able to but a filter head at any major store. worse case is the Intl dealer would have a filter head. Be careful cutting the steel lines. The PO butchered mine and I still have leaks where he took the fitting off.

Doing front brakes on the Explorer...call me if you need to.

 

[sassyrel]

as joe said--dont stack coolers--you want the auxillary cooler after the stock rad---and--the 99 up trans cooler from ford is very efficent--and the later 6.0 even more so--can find them on ebay all the time---

 

[ericboutin]

Cool! I may give you a call in a little bit! So you've got stock cooler in bottom of rad to two air to oil coolers? Cool I wasn't sure about having all those coolers. I'll just leave the little one and add another then. I'm about to head out to Advance to pick up some parts....thinking I'll go ahead and replace the fluid and filter in the tranny while I'm add it. Gotta remember to get a new gasket too. Gonna take a tranny bath. If funds would allow I would love to get a deeper pan with drain plug but that ain't gonna happen right now....

 

[RKOCH]

Don't stack them . I run a filter then to the stock radiator cooler then to a finnned cooler with a fan on it. Go get you a A/C flush bottle and use A/C flush solvent works great.

 

[ericboutin]

Don't stack them . I run a filter then to the stock radiator cooler then to a finnned cooler with a fan on it. Go get you a A/C flush bottle and use A/C flush solvent works great.

Will one bottle be enough? Great idea I wasn't sure how the heck to flush the OEM. The stock cooler has not been hooked up since I've owned it - not sure why really but I would like to put it back online. I'm figuring it to be pretty dirty.

I'll put them side by side for sure. Stock metal lines have already been butchered so no worries there...hopefully I can't make it worse.

Where did you mount your filter?

 

[ericboutin]

I've got everything I need now to complete the install. Kudos for the A/C flushing idea!! That worked awesome!! Ordered my Perma Cool filter kit from Jeg's - came FedEx today...even got a free Jeg's Baseball hat!
Got a question though...I was scoping out this evening where to mount the filter....I've got two places I'm thinking and looking for any advise. The first place and the one I'm leaning towards now is on the pass side just behind the bumper; mounting the filter head on the frame. This would allow for easy filter changes...might be a bit of a chore drilling holes but....
My second idea is behind the grill on the the rad support just to the right of the pass headlight (as you're looking at the truck). This would put it in the air flow but would be a bit of a chore to change the filters as I'd have to remove the grill everytime. Good thing is the filter doesn't need changing all that often.
For those who have done this where did ya'll mount yours...is their an easier spot that I'm missing. There doesn't appear to be a whole lot of options.
Thanks.

 

[MARQ2277]

Check out Summit racing for good deals on the cooler. I plan on doing the same thing, and I agree on not stacking the coolers. As for the filters go, I didn't know you had to use just one line, so long as the in/out on the filter are not reversed.

Marq

 

[ericboutin]

I went ahead and bought the biggest one they had at Advance for the cooler.
There are two lines coming from the tranny...one is the hot or pressure line; the other is the return line. You are right the hot or pressure side has to go in the "In" on the filter head and then move on towards the stock rad cooler, air cooler then hook up to the "return" line and make it's way back to the tranny to do it all over again.

 

[ericboutin]

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/700/771/771-10677_78.pdf

This link shows the flow really well and what goes where etc.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I have two coolers on mine, well actually three - I got the stock heat exchanger, then two others on the very front of the truck right behind the grille, all plumbed inline. My external coolers are attached to the A/C condenser with those push-thru zip-ties, works just fine. Now, here's the thing - you don't wanna run two external stacked-plate coolers in series, apparently that kills the flow rate and kinda works against what the coolers are intended to do. If you use "snake-tube" coolers, then you can run inline, as to the fluid these coolers look like nothing more than a long transmission line, so flowrate is hardly affected, if at all.

 

[MARQ2277]

Got ya. I just know I want to add a cooler at least. With the torque converter lock up switch, and line pressure mod I did, I want to make sure I have no issues towing my 28 foot house around.

Marq
Boise, Idaho

 

[LCAM-01XA]

right, increased line pressure does make for extra heat, I was just warned about that by Mark Kowalsky over at TDS. Also, apparently there's a a valve in the E4OD, that if it feels the pump can't keep up with the power demand caused by the increased line pressure, it will cut off pressure to the lockup of the converter, thus making for some slip in it - basically pump makes for only so much pressure, if the drive clutches and the lockup together need more than that the lockup get sacrificed in favor of the drive clutches.So keep that in mind, and don't go overboard with the line pressure.

 

[MARQ2277]

Line Pressure

Yes, and no. I have a variable line pressure adjustment. So, I can determine the feel of a firm shift, without going to far. You can over do it, just like a turbo, with to much boost (which I do have an ATS with a waste gate). But, too many guysk, like Gale Banks, TDI, ATS make contollers that also do the same thing. Trust me, if Gale Banks does it, . . . well good enough for me.

Marq

1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Right, I was just giving you a heads-up on it, as it was a former Ford transmissions engineer who told me about it, and I wasn't sure you're aware of that valve's existence and function (as I wasn't). Actually, while we're at it, did you figure out what resistence are you putting out now with the potentiometer at the setting you like best? If you can throw a DVM across it and simply measure it that would be great. I'm still running my 100 ohms, I was paying close attention to the lockup today as i drove to work, and it feels just like it did earlier - engages hard and fast, disengages the same way, and does it just when I need it to, with no slip that I can feel whatsoever. So I think I can declare the 100 ohm as a safe resistor to use, at least for regular daily driving with no towing (I rarely tow, like once a month or so).