Nrliftedranger
Full Access Member
anyone have the instructions for torquing the heads studs on a 7.3 idi
steps
torque amounts
steps
torque amounts
Torquing head studs
- Thread starter Nrliftedranger
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I will be watching this thread. May need to correct or add a few items but.. Use the ARP Molly lube or don't do the job. I was up at the factory talking to the engineers about this and a few other things. They told me use their lube and torque to 100 lbs. Use any other lube like 30 wt oil and torque is 130 lbs...
I'm not lazy but why work harder than you have to. your gonna be torqueing the studs 4 times so do it the easy simple way. Also clean out the threads in the block with a bottoming tap so the stud can reach the bottom thread. Reaching the bottom thread makes the strength that much better for holding. If you only have half of the threads clean and useable then you have half the clamping power no matter what torque you use. The threads are down from the top of the block 1 inch. Thats so the torque wont pull up on the top thread and ruin the clamping power. The depth of the threads in the block are 1 1/2 inch. Hand thread the sruds into the block till they bottom out. Then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Use the lube under the washer and under the nut too. That way theres no friction area thats not been treated. When I torque heads I use a claibrated torque wrench and listen for the click 2 or three times before I move to the next stud. Once you do this sequence it becomes easy to remember. The last torque sequence is the "Z" patteran. Start at one end of the head in the valve cover area and follow that line till the end and then go back just under that row. Then turn back and do the last row that outside the valve cover..
I'm not lazy but why work harder than you have to. your gonna be torqueing the studs 4 times so do it the easy simple way. Also clean out the threads in the block with a bottoming tap so the stud can reach the bottom thread. Reaching the bottom thread makes the strength that much better for holding. If you only have half of the threads clean and useable then you have half the clamping power no matter what torque you use. The threads are down from the top of the block 1 inch. Thats so the torque wont pull up on the top thread and ruin the clamping power. The depth of the threads in the block are 1 1/2 inch. Hand thread the sruds into the block till they bottom out. Then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Use the lube under the washer and under the nut too. That way theres no friction area thats not been treated. When I torque heads I use a claibrated torque wrench and listen for the click 2 or three times before I move to the next stud. Once you do this sequence it becomes easy to remember. The last torque sequence is the "Z" patteran. Start at one end of the head in the valve cover area and follow that line till the end and then go back just under that row. Then turn back and do the last row that outside the valve cover..
Nrliftedranger
Full Access Member
thanks icanfixall i also found instructions on arps website stupid me they reccomment 125 3 times in sequence with arp lube and from what i can see its just moly lube that i already have (loctite Moly Paste) i have a 1/2 13 bottoming tap
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
No need to loosen them. Just one "step"
Nrliftedranger
Full Access Member
they just mean torque them 3 times in sequence no looseneing
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Please explain what your meaning in this post. I'm a bit comfused about what your posting and wonder if others are too.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
yeah what he said. was on my phone so i made it quick lol. just letting everybody know there is no need to loosen up the nuts of the studs when you are going threw the torque sequence.
arp spec on 7.3 studs are 125ftbl iirc. i forget the steps in went in on mine but i think i did 4 steps up to 125 then i kept going around at 125 until my torque wrench beeped right away without the nut moving at all.
arp spec on 7.3 studs are 125ftbl iirc. i forget the steps in went in on mine but i think i did 4 steps up to 125 then i kept going around at 125 until my torque wrench beeped right away without the nut moving at all.
Nrliftedranger
Full Access Member
exactly 94iditurbo thats what i meant to say
Nick
Nick
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Ok guys. I believe something got crossed here. If someones post about me stateing to back off the studs in the block an 1/8 to 1/4 turn got mixed up to say the nuts should be backed off by that amount.. Well no.. Thats not what I said bout nuts. It said screw the studs into the block. Back them off 1/8 turn. Big differance in backing off the nuts. Am I on track here od way off cause I'm really confused now and I'm not doing the torque work.
when assembling my SBFs, a nice tip i pikced up from *****, when you put your studs and caps on (or heads), put your moly paste on, and with a breaker bar run em a nut down till tight, back off, retighten till tight-youll notice you can turn the breaker bar further, do this one more time for a total of 3 tight and retight (not full torque, just nice n tight).
This works the moly paste in.
After that, then proceed to normal torque sequence.
This works the moly paste in.
After that, then proceed to normal torque sequence.
