Too much return fuel?

[BDCarrillo]

Those fittings can be put on the sending unit (or filler neck), which would have to come out. Not sure on complexity in a van.

There's something to be said for having excess capability... If I had that pump in hand I'd use it. Push fuel through a 10 micron then 2 micron filter, and then into the stock head for water separation.

Bulletproof filtration, pressure control (as injector pump ages you can up the pressure to restore timing), cheaper/easier filter swaps... I can't really think of a downside except fussing with the tank to put in nice fittings.

Should probably drop the tank and replace the showerhead anyway.

As a personal preference I'd put the regulator after the racor/additional filter(s) so they get full flow. I'd also tee in a gauge where the vacuum sensor is on the stock filter head to get a no-bull this is what the IP sees pressure reading.

 

[w123suv]

I really appreciate all the good advice. Any more specifics about filter setup would be great. I may not have the time or funds for it at this point but I think it would be a really good upgrade. I didn't think about putting it in the filler. I'm not familiar with what the showerhead is but I'm assuming it's the pick up? Do the go bad in the single tank setup?

 

[BDCarrillo]

I dont have any recommendations for specific filter setups off the top of my head but I can search around later.

Tank pickups (at least in trucks) are notorious for falling apart.

Returning fuel to the filler (typically unpopular) won't be an issue since you are using an external pump. Gasser in-tank pumps are cooled by returning fuel, which won't apply in your case.

 

[franklin2]

That doesn't look to bad. Thanks for the part numbers. I'm guessing there is a way to reach inside the tank then?

If you were me would you just sell the raptor, buy a carter or other hundred dollar pump, with correct psi and gph, do away with the regulator and be done with it?

I can't believe you haven't had the fuel tank out to modify it yet. Did the vans not have the fuel filling problems the trucks have? I had a terrible time getting fuel into my truck at the station until I dropped the tanks, pulled out the vent/roll-over valve, and put a copper elbow in the grommet with a large 1/2" hose for a vent. You could incorporate your new return line into a system like this if you are having fill problems at the station.

 

[w123suv]

I can't say I know wether the van tanks are better than the trucks? This is my second van. First had 260k on it when I stopped driving it because it was so rusty. I've never had any tank related problems. I usually run them down to at least 1/8 of a tank before I fill up and filling speed hasn't been a problem either so I don't know.

 

[w123suv]

As a personal preference I'd put the regulator after the racor/additional filter(s) so they get full flow. I'd also tee in a gauge where the vacuum sensor is on the stock filter head to get a no-bull this is what the IP sees pressure reading.

That's exactly what I plan to. Im running 4an stainless hose straight to a mechanical gauge so it should be pretty accurate.

I was looking at some racor filters last night. You think the stock filter does well enough on water just to loose on particulates? Just wondering if I used a water separtor on one of the two prefilters if I could just do way with stock filterhead altogether. I wish there was a better filter that would fit the stock filter heads. I have two of those so if I could move them and add longer better spin on filters I'd be set.

 

[w123suv]

Filters

Those fittings can be put on the sending unit (or filler neck), which would have to come out. Not sure on complexity in a van.

There's something to be said for having excess capability... If I had that pump in hand I'd use it. Push fuel through a 10 micron then 2 micron filter, and then into the stock head for water separation.

Bulletproof filtration, pressure control (as injector pump ages you can up the pressure to restore timing), cheaper/easier filter swaps... I can't really think of a downside except fussing with the tank to put in nice fittings.

Should probably drop the tank and replace the showerhead anyway.

As a personal preference I'd put the regulator after the racor/additional filter(s) so they get full flow. I'd also tee in a gauge where the vacuum sensor is on the stock filter head to get a no-bull this is what the IP sees pressure reading.

I got on Racors website and found some filters that seem like they would work with the stock filter head. In particular a S3225S filter. Its 2 micron 4.4 diameter and 5 inches long. It seems like it would fit but i can't figure out if it needs a bowl attached to the bottom or what.

The B120 series filters also seem like the would fit although to tall (12in) for stock location. Doesn't seem like it would be hard to relocated stock filterhead and keep wiring for the heater and sensor.

 

[BDCarrillo]

I don't know exactly how well the stock filter does with water. I did a little research and a baldwin bf1212 would be great for the high micron filter. 20 micron actual, 4 micron nominal at 50% with water separator. I did find them for about ~$10.

That's as far as I got until beer got in the way of further research.

The oem filter heater is about worthless on IDI's.

 

[Black dawg]

I don't know exactly how well the stock filter does with water. I did a little research and a baldwin bf1212 would be great for the high micron filter. 20 micron actual, 4 micron nominal at 50% with water separator. I did find them for about ~$10.

That's as far as I got until beer got in the way of further research.



The oem filter heater is about worthless on IDI's.

I have only seen a few on a 6.9 that work, but aside from leaking out of the connector, the heater on the 7.3 seems to work fine. You have seen different?

 

[BDCarrillo]

I have only seen a few on a 6.9 that work, but aside from leaking out of the connector, the heater on the 7.3 seems to work fine. You have seen different?

Connector leakage and laughably low output. It's in the range of 20 watts. Holding a lighter to the filter would work faster.

I've read about plenty of severe cold area folks operating fine without it.

 

[w123suv]

I have not had any experience negative or positive concerning the heater. I was thinking more about the water in fuel sensor and vacuum switch. I was thinking to save money by reusing the stock filter heads. Seems like a 12" Racor water separator would be better than stock and two would be much better.

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I took the tank off my old van today to familiarize myself with it. I took out what appears to be the shower head but everything looked like it was in great shape.

For a return line I'm thinking the easiest way would be to tee into the smaller (vent) of the two rubber hoses. It almost seems too easy but I can't see any reason it wouldn't work.

For now I think I will continue using the stock filter until I have more time and funds in a couple months. I'm thinking to just attach the regulator to the out port on the raptor, run the return to the filler vent hose and leave the rest stock. Oh, and add the pressure gauge.

Thanks for all the help BDCarrillo

 

[BDCarrillo]

Returning to the vent line sounds like a good plan. An angled tee (wye) pointed toward the tank would be ideal to prevent excess splashing from creeping up the vent to the gas cap.

Adding the filters would only be a perk, so no rush on them yet. I would definitely add the gauge now to dial in the regulator.

The van showerhead attaches differently... trucks have a couple inches of plastic tube between the showerhead and metal line that likes to break.

 

[Black dawg]

Connector leakage and laughably low output. It's in the range of 20 watts. Holding a lighter to the filter would work faster.

But the heater is a little better packaged and easier to use, than having some dude holding a lighter to your filter. I have one here somewhere to mess with, I am curious now how much heat they actually create.

I do agree that lots of people get through cold weather without them, but not when highs are 0-10f for weeks. It doesnt matter how much fuel additive you use, there is always wax dropout and build up without a heater.

 

[BDCarrillo]

The manual supposedly recommends 5 minutes Key On to warm the fuel. An aftermarket 100-200 watt unit strapped to the filter would heat faster and better. The stock unit is up at the top of the filter, and mostly heats incoming fuel.

 

[Black dawg]

Just to add to my derail.... I removed and tested that heater yesterday, and yes only 1.5 amps at 12v. But in 45 seconds or so it was at 95 degrees, and didnt get any hotter.