Time to replace the clutch

[IDIBRONCO]

I agree with Macrobb. I've never taken anything other than what he said out/off to remove the transmission. As for the bellhousing bolts, I use my 3/4" impact swivel, ONE 6" extension and my 1/2" drive impact. There's been very few bolts that I couldn't reach with this setup. Franklin2, I don't think that anyone said that they didn't tilt their trans to remove it, they just said that they didn't have to tilt it to remove the top two bellhousing bolts. Mulochico, of course you need to remove the starter before you try to tilt the trans down in the back for whatever reason. The crossmember "brace" bolts that go into the top frame rail will not come out with the cab on. Don't worry about it and leave them in there. Some things that I didn't see mentioned. 1-I like to use long bolts (or nuts double nutted onto allthread) in the bottom two bellhousing bolt holes to help line up the trans during the reinstall. 2-I always put the trans in gear before trying to install it. This way you can grab the output shaft and turn it to turn the input shaft so you can line it up with the splines in the clutch disc. I've even been known to use a big pair of wter pump pliers (carefully) to turn the output shaft if there is pressure on the input shaft. 3-If the clutch disc isn't perfectly centered in the pressure plate, you won't be able to get the input shaft of the trans to slide through it. What I do here is to install the slave cylinder and then slowly, gently push down on the clutch pedal with my hand to release the pressure plate so the clutch will align itself. At this point, I know that the splines are lined up because turning the output shaft will move the truck, but the trans just won't quite seat against the adapter plate on the back of the engine. That's when I'll push on the pedal as a last resort.

 

[towcat]

Just thought about this. Is there a sealant when you put on a speedy sleeve? Haven't checked with my mechanic friend as he is at work right now. And I did get the install tool.

please tell me you got the fel-pro brand speedi sleeve.
i never used any loctite on the sleeve.

 

[Mulochico]

I agree with Macrobb. I've never taken anything other than what he said out/off to remove the transmission. As for the bellhousing bolts, I use my 3/4" impact swivel, ONE 6" extension and my 1/2" drive impact. There's been very few bolts that I couldn't reach with this setup. Franklin2, I don't think that anyone said that they didn't tilt their trans to remove it, they just said that they didn't have to tilt it to remove the top two bellhousing bolts. Mulochico, of course you need to remove the starter before you try to tilt the trans down in the back for whatever reason. The crossmember "brace" bolts that go into the top frame rail will not come out with the cab on. Don't worry about it and leave them in there. Some things that I didn't see mentioned. 1-I like to use long bolts (or nuts double nutted onto allthread) in the bottom two bellhousing bolt holes to help line up the trans during the reinstall. 2-I always put the trans in gear before trying to install it. This way you can grab the output shaft and turn it to turn the input shaft so you can line it up with the splines in the clutch disc. I've even been known to use a big pair of wter pump pliers (carefully) to turn the output shaft if there is pressure on the input shaft. 3-If the clutch disc isn't perfectly centered in the pressure plate, you won't be able to get the input shaft of the trans to slide through it. What I do here is to install the slave cylinder and then slowly, gently push down on the clutch pedal with my hand to release the pressure plate so the clutch will align itself. At this point, I know that the splines are lined up because turning the output shaft will move the truck, but the trans just won't quite seat against the adapter plate on the back of the engine. That's when I'll push on the pedal as a last resort.

Lots of good info, thanks

please tell me you got the fel-pro brand speedi sleeve.
i never used any loctite on the sleeve.

Yep, fel-pro. I had a few people tell me that 4 dots N, S, E, W will keep it from spinning. I will see as I put it in. Thanks for the input.

 

[JEHall]

Being you have a 4x4 its gonna be a bit more involved but not that much more. A 3/4 swivel and a 18mm swivel socket will come in handy for bell housing and cross member bolts. I would drop the transfer case off the transmission before I removed it. Also tilt the motor back a bit but be mindfull of glowplug controller and fire wall clearance. Block the pan when you have the engine tilted back as far as you can go. This helps with the top 2 bolts on the bell housing. You may have to loosen the exhaust flanges as well so they don't bind. After you have installed the clutch disc and pressure plate make sure that the alignment tool will slide in and out easily. You don't want a tight fit when your trying to slide the input shaft into the disc hub and pilot bushing. Last thing is put the best throwout bearing that you can get in there and lube the throwout bearing guild. Good luck.

 

[Mulochico]

Well, good thing I checked better before the tear down. I purchased:

1 Fel-Pro rear main seal set # BS-40697 (includes seal and wear sleeve)
1 Fel-Pro # 16256 Crankshaft repair sleeve
1 Fel-pro # 16301 Repair sleeve install tool (needed for install of #16256)

#16256 is thinner than the Sleeve in # BS 40697 and there is no install tool for the sleeve in #BS 40697. Any ideas? Everything I have seen or heard said that there should be an install tool for the sleeve. So I am either looking for a tool to fit the bigger sleeve or a seal for the thinner one.

I checked this before tear down so I am not out a truck yet. Thanks ahead of time

 

[towcat]

i use
Fel pro #s 16256 and 16301 with seal set BS158681
but I do not use
Fel pro # BS 406997
the key thing I've learned is to avoid using the PTFE seals. they do not have enough "give" to accommodate for the sleeves
rubber only or viton seals are OK. problem is....you will have fun finding them. check out rockauto.com for the parts.

 

[Mulochico]

i use
Fel pro #s 16256 and 16301 with seal set BS158681
but I do not use
Fel pro # BS 406997
the key thing I've learned is to avoid using the PTFE seals. they do not have enough "give" to accommodate for the sleeves
rubber only or viton seals are OK. problem is....you will have fun finding them. check out rockauto.com for the parts.

Thanks towcat, I was able to get the BS158681 seal kit at O'Reilly. Much better seal. A lot more seal material and I see why you said it had more "give".

Project is going along. Got the Speedy sleeve, main seal, clutch, and trans back in last night. I ended up taking the floor panel out. It didn't help with the Bell housing bolts (other than a bit more light to see them), but it made getting at the Trans to Transfer case bolts much easier and more room to work when uninstalling and reinstalling the transmission. I have been using a lot of the ideas thru the process, gotta love the brotherhood!!!

I will be working more on it today. hopefully getting done. I have back, shoulder, hip and neck issues, so I am working slow and steady. People ask me why I don't just pay to have it done? I just tell them I like working on my truck, I don't have to many mechanics that I trust (especially the new generation coming up), and this way I know vehicles better when I am in the middle of nowhere and something inevitably goes wrong with mine or others vehicles.

My mechanic buddy helped when he got off of work yesterday. He looked it up and the clutch, bearing, etc. swap books out at 7.5 hrs in a shop with lifts, and all the good tools. So, I don't think I am doing to bad.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

I always do them myself, with no trans jack. I do as much as I can through the tunnel. i one even did one without actually removing the trans. removed drivehafts and tcase, removed trans tunnel. removed trans mount but left the cross member. removed bell bolts and slid the trans back on the crossmember. gained me just enough room to put everything in. now granted this was a 4 speed truck do the bell and trans separate.

 

[Mulochico]

Well, as usual, things get interesting. It is all together and the clutch works GREAT!!!!! Thanks for all of the input.

I got it started, now my DB Electric starter, that I bought a little over a year ago, stays engaged. I will look at it when I wake up as it was getting dark and I was beat. Gotta love the 105+ degree days. Good news, the next couple of days are cooling off to 99 degrees. I also get to go back to work tomorrow afternoon. I need a break from my vacation.

Thanks again to all for the ideas, it helped a lot.

 

[Mulochico]

Done. Starter had stuck so that anytime power was put to the post, it engaged. Oh, well. Went with an O'Reilly Nipondenso lifetime warranty. I have gotten pretty good at removing and installing them so if it doesn't last it is only a little time involved.

Thanks again to all. It is an amazingly easy peddle now. The old pilot bearing was pretty much gone and the throwout bearing was grinding a bit and the spline shaft was dry. Almost feels to easy. Rollover noise isn't bad. Almost afraid to pull anything as the clutch is so easy to push it doesn't feel strong enough to work.

 

[franklin2]

What model number LUK clutch did you get? Was it a kit or did you piece it together? Did you order it online? I keep reading that some of these oversize aftermarket clutch kits are easy to push, which would be easier on the firewall and easier on my leg.

I did the Lucky Mod and it's been ok, a little noisy though and it's fairly stiff. If it doesn't cost too much I might be ready to upgrade to something better.

 

[Mulochico]

What model number LUK clutch did you get? Was it a kit or did you piece it together? Did you order it online? I keep reading that some of these oversize aftermarket clutch kits are easy to push, which would be easier on the firewall and easier on my leg.

What I got was from Rockauto.com:

LUK 07225 (07-225) Clutch Kit $ 242.79
ATP ZA124 (ZA-124) Clutch Fork $ 12.68
FEL-PRO 16256 Crankshaft Repair Sleeve $ 5.37
FEL-PRO 16301 Crankshaft Main Bearing Repair Sleeve Tool $ 21.89
FEL-PRO BS15868-1 Rear Main seal (refer by towcat) $ 39.99 (O'Rielly, got a different one on Rock Auto but towcat recommended this one. Much better seal. Check Rockauto)

I checked piecing it together, but it was a few $'s cheaper as a kit. I don't mind a heavy clutch (truck driver by trade), but it is amazing how easy the peddle is now. My son (18 yrs old and didn't mind the old peddle) said it felt like a cloud. It is a 12.25" clutch.

 

[Zephyr]

Interesting I am running the LUK 07-131 in my 1994. I wonder what the difference?

 

[Zephyr]

Duplicate

 

[Mulochico]

Factory turbo?