IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I agree with Macrobb. I've never taken anything other than what he said out/off to remove the transmission. As for the bellhousing bolts, I use my 3/4" impact swivel, ONE 6" extension and my 1/2" drive impact. There's been very few bolts that I couldn't reach with this setup. Franklin2, I don't think that anyone said that they didn't tilt their trans to remove it, they just said that they didn't have to tilt it to remove the top two bellhousing bolts. Mulochico, of course you need to remove the starter before you try to tilt the trans down in the back for whatever reason. The crossmember "brace" bolts that go into the top frame rail will not come out with the cab on. Don't worry about it and leave them in there. Some things that I didn't see mentioned. 1-I like to use long bolts (or nuts double nutted onto allthread) in the bottom two bellhousing bolt holes to help line up the trans during the reinstall. 2-I always put the trans in gear before trying to install it. This way you can grab the output shaft and turn it to turn the input shaft so you can line it up with the splines in the clutch disc. I've even been known to use a big pair of wter pump pliers (carefully) to turn the output shaft if there is pressure on the input shaft. 3-If the clutch disc isn't perfectly centered in the pressure plate, you won't be able to get the input shaft of the trans to slide through it. What I do here is to install the slave cylinder and then slowly, gently push down on the clutch pedal with my hand to release the pressure plate so the clutch will align itself. At this point, I know that the splines are lined up because turning the output shaft will move the truck, but the trans just won't quite seat against the adapter plate on the back of the engine. That's when I'll push on the pedal as a last resort.