summer project

remington88

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well as of today i got tags on the new to me car. so its time to start diggin into the beast. i have a turbo kit i am gonnna put on it but i want to get the engine running better first. i finally got the hard start issue fixed. so it fires right off now. runs pretty good but if i stand by the tail pipe it sounds like a choo choo. sounds like an exhaust leak or burnt valve. if i stand in front of the truck i dont hear it. just wondering where i need to start my diagnosis. i am leaning twards a burnt valve its got 200k on it and i was extremly ******* the truck befor i got on here and started learning about them. didnt know i needed to worry about egts in a stock app. any help guidence direction. would be great. i plan on doing quite a bit on it this summer as it can sit. once i go buy a camera i will post pics up when i get started on everything
 

hesutton

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The huffing sound in the exhaust certainly can be a sign of a bad valve. Gotta pull the valve covers and have a look for any obvious problems. But, with spring tension on the valves, it can be hard to assess the valve to guide clearance/wear. Pulling the springs with the heads on is possible, but you have to have that cylinder at or dang close to TDC so you don't loose a valve or two down into the cylinder.LOL

Obviously, pulling the heads will give you all the access you need to look at the valves, seats, guides, and so forth.

Heath
 

remington88

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thanks for the info. i was out of town for the weekend doing military stuff so i havent been on here. i think i will just pull the heads and have a look. it starts seeping coolant out the headgaskets once it gets real hot or i work it hard. so i might as well replace those while i can have the truck down. anything else i should look at or watch out for? if not i should start tearing into it here pretty soon
 

8seconds

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Just had the same with my truck, best to go ahead as Heath stated with pulling the heads and rebuild them. Oh, and no better time to pull and rebuild your oil cooler also...

Good Luck....
 

remington88

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ya that is also on the to do list. its startin to leak anyway so with the heads off it would be dumb not to. work smarter not harder. gotta find a machine shop around here tho.
 

remington88

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thats exactly how mine sounds by the tail pipe. sounds like my suspitions might be correct. might start the tear down this weekend if this rain ever lets up. if not i will next weekend
 

gatorman21218

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sorry to here that. well before you tear her down pull both valve covers and start the truck. on mine it was very obvious with the valve cover removed. next do a compression test. on mine all cylinders were between 450 and 500 except the number 5 which was 190. So there are a few things you can do narrow it down and if you have any more questions you can call me. pm me for my number.
 

remington88

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i dont have anyway to do a compression test on it and i am too cheap or distrustful to take it to anyone and have it done. guess i will have to buy one. gives me an excuse to buy more tools
 

hesutton

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If you are pulling the engine out of the truck, I'd pull the oil pan while you have it out. You can pull a main cap/rod cap or two to see what the bearings look like. You can sneek a peek at the cam lobes and their condition as well. It would be a good time to pull and replace the front and rear main seals on the crankshaft as well. Look at the water pump's weep hole on the bottom of the pump. When it starts to go down, it will puke rusty stuff out of that hole. If it looks like the one below, it's time for a water pump as well. And, like suggested above, rebuild the oil cooler.;Sweet

You must be registered for see images


Heath
 

remington88

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well i did have the water pump replaced while i was overseas. my brother sent me a picture and was like its leaking whats wrong. right off the bat i was saying water pump. but i dont have the space or tools to pull the engine sadly. that will be in a few years once i graduate college. but as for now i am just keepin the ol gal runnin good best as i can. i will start tearing into it next week so the heads will soon be off to get fixed. is there anything special i need to ask or have done to the heads? i just want it to be stock but last at the same time.
 

hesutton

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The heads need to be stipped (valves and spings removed). Don't send them your rockers by the way. Just something to get lost. Magnaflux and pressure test the head for cracks. Check the head for warppage. Check the valve to guide clearence....... have new guides machined in if they are out of spec......... it sounds like they are LOL. I'd replace the vavles that were riding in worn guides at a minimun, but if you can swing the cost, I'd replace them all. Exhaust valves..... inconnel is expensive, stellite faced valves are less so.......... both are an upgrade from stock (non factory turbo) IDI's. Have them inspect the precups for any cracks that extend beyond the firering. Three angle grind on the valve seats. Have them set the valve depth to spec as well.

Lots of good IDI head info in this article posted by Jim.--------------> CLICK HERE!!!

Heath
 

remington88

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thanks. i am sure i will have a ton more questions. i am gonna tear into it starting in the morning. so my summer project starts. finally have some free time from running so much and school. should be able to get the heads off this weekend i think. i will take pictures as i go but i will have to figure out how to get them up on here from my phone befor i post them
 

remington88

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thanks. i am sure i will have a ton more questions. i am gonna tear into it starting in the morning. so my summer project starts. finally have some free time from running so much and school. should be able to get the heads off this weekend i think. i will take pictures as i go but i will have to figure out how to get them up on here from my phone befor i post them
 

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