Steering ISSUE fix - Drag link roll causing dead spot

riotwarrior

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Ya know...SOMETIMES...me thinks we are ...as in U n I...are the good clown ....bad clown comedic relief here...here at OB.....:rotflmao
 

DaytonaBill

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I want one!!!:love:

Pretty please with a cherry on top! :hail
 

IDIoit

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in the midst of a yard clean up.
it will be done tomorrow morning, then I will start shipping these out to the folks that have
given me their address.

sorry for the delay, my projects come first :D
 

riotwarrior

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in the midst of a yard clean up.
it will be done tomorrow morning, then I will start shipping these out to the folks that have
given me their address.

sorry for the delay, my projects come first :D
At least I had legit reason for delay...had to emter an entirely different country....*** is this my stuff first excuse crappola...gitterdun man git those cures in the mail man....
 

IDIoit

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At least I had legit reason for delay...had to emter an entirely different country....*** is this my stuff first excuse crappola...gitterdun man git those cures in the mail man....

dude, they all shipped out tomorrow.
 

IDIoit

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shipping today for
nj_m715
SirRea63l
MOWOG
DaytonaBill
towcat
typ4

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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riotwarrior

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shipping today for
nj_m715
SirRea63l
MOWOG
DaytonaBill
towcat
typ4

attachment.php
:hail
 

mblaney

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This is my recommendation for you guys about to install them. Please note that I am not an automotive engineer so it is up to you to decide if your install is safe or not.

This is not a crush washer! After removing the TRE and removing the grease boot, do a 'dry fit' of the DELRIN spacer ("the CURE"). With the TRE reinstalled (light torque on the castle nut) there should still be some wiggle (rotation) in the TRE. If you can't move it at all remove the CURE and cut it down. To remove material, work from the chamfered side (the end that faces the drag bar) not the end the fits over where the grease boot was. Delrin will be a ***** to work with but you will be able to remove material with a belt sander or body grinder with a coarse disk, or use the side of a bench grinder wheel. I turned some of the parts oversize (wrote the dimension on the parts) so I would expect some installations would need to be fitted.

You don't want this to be too tight; the TRE should be installed to the correct torque and the TRE should still have wiggle room. Once you have finished installing the CURE, check the joint at the pittman and make sure it is not clocked all the way to one side (the grease boot is collapsed on one side and stretched on the other). If necessary adjust the pittman TRE so the joint is relaxed.

Keep this greased! You no longer have the benefit of a rubber doughnut but the inside of the CURE will take a large volume of grease. For mine, I used a synthetic waterproof grease. There is actually not much movement in this joint (compared to at the pittman or steerning knuckle) so it should last forever.


More pics in my first post in this thread.

Cheers,
Mike
 
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