!@#$^!#$%&!# Steering Box!!!

[The Warden]

NAPA sels a conversion to an iron saginaw.

Would love to hear more details on this...iron's almost universally better than aluminum, and while my pump's still happy, it's always good to think about the future.

Also, regarding the rebuild kits including spacers as well as seals...are the spacers what get worn down to make a gearbox too "loose"? If not, what does, and is that/those parts a part of the rebuild kit?

I replaced my gearbox with a reman unit last August, and wihle the reman doesn't have as much play as the old one did, it still has more than I'm happy with. At least to the naked eye, the steering shaft and the rag joint are happy, and the connection at the top of the gearbox is moving as much as the steering wheel moves, while the Pitman arm doesn't move at all...so I think I have a cheaply-done reman

 

[Camarogenius]

Well, I've said it many times, I Love my engine, but the truck wrapped around it is a ****.

 

[OkieGringo]

Well, I've said it many times, I Love my engine, but the truck wrapped around it is a ****.

How many 1988 Dodge or Chevy 3/4 or 1 ton trucks do you see running around town? I highly doubt that any of the current generation of trucks will still be around 18 years from now. OkieGringo

 

[82fordtruck]

that's not quite a fair comparison, those Dodges were UGLY!!

I think these old fords are incredibly reliable, and people make them unreliable because of the way they maintain them and drive them.

Mine has 301k now, and I would not hesitate to hook onto a 20k trailer and drive across the country. But, I drive mine nice and am not frugal with maintainence. I always buy at the ford dealer or rebuild parts myself.

 

[Camarogenius]

As far as the drivetrain, mine is great, but the clutch linkage, the heater core, the ignition switch, The steering box, the wiper motor, and my headlights are going to be next!
All I wanted was for this truck to hold together for a year, or two, until I'm ready to rip the motor and tranny out of it for my Tremor. It's nickel and dimeing me to death.

 

[82fordtruck]

when I bought mine, I had to sink almost what I paid for the truck ($5000) within six months for it. Since then, it's been between $100 and $200 per month for maintenance. I drive about 2000 miles per month, and tow about 25% of the time.

These can be economical, and I sure was down at first, but it got a lot better.

That thing you are building looks neat, what are you going to use it for? A T-19 may be a better tranny for something like that because it's cast iron, not aluminum.

 

[Camarogenius]

I'm going to use it as a daily driver/weekend toy. I've had 3 tons in the bed w/ the ZF-5, and no trouble, so I'll be using the ZF.
I just hate having to dump all this money into a truck that I'll be cutting in half and making into a trailer by this time next year.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

How many 1988 Dodge or Chevy 3/4 or 1 ton trucks do you see running around town? I highly doubt that any of the current generation of trucks will still be around 18 years from now. OkieGringo

Roger that!
A buddy of mine over at the detective bureau has one of the 6.5 N/A's and hates it. Doesn't want to grenade it and make it a core.He has said that if he had the chance he would snag one of my rigs or one similar. He likes the reliability of the 6.9/7.3 much more for a farm use truck.

 

[typ4]

loose gearbox

Here is more detail, the screw on the top of the box with the locknut on it sets "backlash" loosen locknot, turn screw in till there is no slack wit hengine off, there will be some play because of the torsion bar in the valving, then back out the screw 1/2 turn or so. If you get it to tight the steering gear will lock up as it moves across the power cylinder inside. I jack up the front and check with engine off for tight spots, if htere is any loosen a bit more. It is a trial and error thing but once you feel it you will know it is right.

Some times the input nut needs a little snug job too, loosen the lockring and turn the big nut in a bit, it uses a spanner type wrench but a tap with a screwdriver in the holes will suffice. I have all the proper tools to do it so my explaination may sound crude but it will work, again get the right spanner for your local group and become steering box god's.

 

[pafixitman]

In your spare time...take some pics! We can then turn this into a great tech article!

I have a spare gear box so I'm thinking I'll give the rebuild a stab.

 

[typ4]

I have a spare I can do on the bench but it might be a few days. Work has put some extreme deadlines on me, no problem but we and I emphasize. HAVE NO PARTS. MORON MANAGERS. Ooops, vented a bit .lol

 

[WILLD]

If the bushings allow any play in the shaft, just go get a reman. The bushings are a real PITA to change if you can find them. For the labor you will use, you can go get another box cheaper.

IF you only need to replace the input shaft seal and the bottom seal they are pretty easy, but much easier to do off the truck than on it.

 

[160k87F250]

my fix

My box leaked for years, Finally bought a used, dry box for $40.00 and put it in. Still dry for over 2 years, now.
John

 

[h2odrx]

mine WAS leaking too, from where i dont know? i started adding prestoaf stop leak and now it don't leak? but i'd ship you mine for a rebuild?
thanks

 

[Boobylinks]

I gave up on putzing around with the SECTOR SHAFT ADJUST SCREW after about a couple hours of tightening and backing off the screw. The first time, I turned it clockwise about a 1/4 turn the truck drove down the freeway better but not good enough. I then putzed around with it some more and now the steering "binds" and I can't get even get back to the former crappy steering wander. The truck now sits in the driveway, tires vibrating and shuddering upon turning the steering wheel and the power steering pump screams like a banshee. With the wheels pointed straight ahead, I still hear a slight pump murmer. Do I need to raise the wheels off the ground first before taking another stab at it? Mr. Wizard get me outta me!

Bob