looks like the AD copy gave you fair warning.
sounds like they spec'd it to handle body lift trucks too. you can always trim down but not add to.
Steering box, or shaft?
- Thread starter warhog
- Start date
looks like the AD copy gave you fair warning.
sounds like they spec'd it to handle body lift trucks too. you can always trim down but not add to.
yup. Just expected a closer fit. I could understand a minor adjustment but this just seems like they didn't even measure, just cut a shaft and threw some joints on it. Feels real good quality though, much beefier than the POS stock one I had. I'm excited to get the truck moving again and try this thing out.
Waystro
No Class
Old thread but did the shaft help any ?
im 2 years late as well,
when i encounter problems with the rag joints, i always call up my cousin @ summit racing and make my own shaft!
2 Flaming river or Borgensen steering U-joints and a 36" length of steering shaft.
this one cost me 180 bucks, and will be TIG welded when i get back on this project.
no more rag joint, no more hastle
when i encounter problems with the rag joints, i always call up my cousin @ summit racing and make my own shaft!
2 Flaming river or Borgensen steering U-joints and a 36" length of steering shaft.
this one cost me 180 bucks, and will be TIG welded when i get back on this project.
no more rag joint, no more hastle
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Waystro
No Class
Cool that's the first Diy steering shaft I've seen
Might go that route thanks for the pics too
Might go that route thanks for the pics too
ive been doing these in hotrods and customs for 20 years, you can get u-joints for 50 bucks each but i chose to spend a little extra coin for the nickle plated nice ones.
the biggest pain in the rear of doing it this way is counting the splines on your steering box.
the 89 F350 steering box was a 3/4"-36 splined u-joint.
you can go with double D shaft or round shaft.
the biggest pain in the rear of doing it this way is counting the splines on your steering box.
the 89 F350 steering box was a 3/4"-36 splined u-joint.
you can go with double D shaft or round shaft.
Waystro
No Class
Hmm decisions I'm trying to find a Rag Joint but having a hard time finding one so I might go this route 
altho the set screws are considered "safe" i would not attempt this without access to a TIG welder.
use the set screws for mock up, pull it out and have it welded up.
everyone has their opinion, this is just mine.....
double D shaft will fit inside your steering column shaft with a little bit of persuasion.
the column im using in this pic is out of a 97
i have a few spare rag joints if you choose to just run a rag joint, 15 bucks, shipped
just dug them out, i have 2 that i found.prolly many more that i cant..lol
im a pack rat and save this stuff.
ones off my 87, the other is off a 97.
both rag joints are rubber, and in good condition.
use the set screws for mock up, pull it out and have it welded up.
everyone has their opinion, this is just mine.....
double D shaft will fit inside your steering column shaft with a little bit of persuasion.
the column im using in this pic is out of a 97
i have a few spare rag joints if you choose to just run a rag joint, 15 bucks, shipped
just dug them out, i have 2 that i found.prolly many more that i cant..lol
im a pack rat and save this stuff.
ones off my 87, the other is off a 97.
both rag joints are rubber, and in good condition.
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A little bigger is good. You can cut or mill off, but adding to it is not quite the same.
And though it's not something I would not normally do, but a set screw works on many a PTO shaft on the farm that spins well past 1000 RPM and drives many an implement. A dimple in the shaft, some red lock tite and you're good to go. Or even a bolt running through the shaft and yoke with locking elliptical head. I'm not saying these are the right ways to do it, I'm not saying it's better than welding, but it's better than a chicken **** weld. Bear in mind I am about the shafts that are squared off on one side (or both) or splined. Round shafts are another story.
But I remember my old 73 F100 4x4 that had manual steering. The box was so worn out, there was no taking up the slack. But part of that wear was wrestling that huge steering wheel while sitting still on 33" tires. That never helps. I fixed the square worn plastic pieces in the cup that makes up the joint in the shaft, and even tightened up the box a little. But that EXPENSIVE manual steering box was the culprit. I often thought of going with power steering, but love the fact that no one wanted to drive my truck because they couldn't the steering.
And though it's not something I would not normally do, but a set screw works on many a PTO shaft on the farm that spins well past 1000 RPM and drives many an implement. A dimple in the shaft, some red lock tite and you're good to go. Or even a bolt running through the shaft and yoke with locking elliptical head. I'm not saying these are the right ways to do it, I'm not saying it's better than welding, but it's better than a chicken **** weld. Bear in mind I am about the shafts that are squared off on one side (or both) or splined. Round shafts are another story.
But I remember my old 73 F100 4x4 that had manual steering. The box was so worn out, there was no taking up the slack. But part of that wear was wrestling that huge steering wheel while sitting still on 33" tires. That never helps. I fixed the square worn plastic pieces in the cup that makes up the joint in the shaft, and even tightened up the box a little. But that EXPENSIVE manual steering box was the culprit. I often thought of going with power steering, but love the fact that no one wanted to drive my truck because they couldn't the steering.
Waystro
No Class
Cool I'm just going to run a Rag Joint until I can build a shaft like yours.
But I won't be able to pay/buy until after the holidays. But I'll defiantly take both Rag Joints
now now, no need to be greedy, you get one 
this is why i say TIG weld only. some peoples MIG welding capabilities (or lack there of) scares the hell out of me
Waystro
No Class
Haha yeah one is all I Really need seeing as my original? Lasted until the powersteering hose started leakingnow now, no need to be greedy, you get one
maybe this is why they changed to a rubber one, but im sure if a rubber one goes out there wont be signs to replace it like the cloth one.
i dont know, i dont like using them. hence my custom shaft. but its a cheap fix to a big problem
i dont know, i dont like using them. hence my custom shaft. but its a cheap fix to a big problem
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