Starting issues after solenoid relay replaced

[WrightWay]

Took ignition switch off and move pin manually. The truck starts repeatedly when clutch all the way to floor, and only dash lights and gps when clutch not depressed.
This would mean the clutch switch and ignition switch are working, but ignition switch is not being fully engaged when the key is turned to start position.
I am going to search for information on getting to the actuator between key cylinder and ignition switch, as it is likely the issue?, or could it be the key lock cylinder which i know how to replace?

 

[Big Bart]

Andy,

TNBrett was correct. You have a starter soleniod for your on starter soleniod. So that wire is actually big enough, it does not need to be replaced.

Hard to say if one or both are the problem. Guessing the ignition switch is easier to replace.(Have not done mine.) So perhaps remove and look for wear. Or start there if not too expensive.

 

[WrightWay]

Thanks Bradd,
The way I interpret this, the ignition switch itself is working (truck starts with pin movement manually), and the clutch switch is working so does not need shims as TNBrett showed us. So it is either the ignition switch actuator (which looks difficult to replace) or the lock cylinder where the key goes in is not working fully. Sound correct?
Andy

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Took ignition switch off and move pin manually. The truck starts repeatedly when clutch all the way to floor, and only dash lights and gps when clutch not depressed.
This would mean the clutch switch and ignition switch are working, but ignition switch is not being fully engaged when the key is turned to start position.
I am going to search for information on getting to the actuator between key cylinder and ignition switch, as it is likely the issue?, or could it be the key lock cylinder which i know how to replace?

Your setup is a little different than my 89 but for mine the ignition switches mounting holes are slots you can move the switch back and forth along before tightening down. So the fix to this is just to loosen and push it towards the steering wheel a 1/4" and tighten and test.
Do you have anything adjustable like that? I can't tell from the pictures.

 

[WrightWay]

I'll send a picture today, but no slots just threaded posts for T30 bolts. Does not appear adjustable like yours.
The actuator seems intact from this bottom view. It will move towards steering wheel with pressure with small screw driver, And moves well when key is turned. Does not look broken.
The key lock cylinder in there is unknown brand, as was replaced years ago from local parts store(2015). It's always been a bit sticky to get the key out, Maybe it's culprit.

I started the truck manually many times by moving pin on ignition switch. Let it idle a while, not been run for too long. Good to hear it.

 

[WrightWay]

Photos where ignition switch attaches and hole in actuator that fits pin from switch.
No adjustment built into it that I can see.

 

[Selahdoor]

There are threads here, and parts of threads, all about the actuator rod that goes between the ignition key cylinder, and the ignition switch. It's a fairly common problem. And one I intended to touch on, early in this thread. If I missed that, I am sorry.

Even though there is "no adjustment built into it". Do try bolting it back on, then loosening the bolts a bit, pushing the switch toward the steering wheel, and while holding it tight in that direction, tightening the bolts.

If that doesn't work, you are going to have to take apart the steering column to fix it right.

People who didn't want to take apart their steering column to get to it, or who simply for whatever other reasons didn't want to dig into that, have tried a couple different "fixes". First, there's the button switch I suggested. Then, some have actually twisted a loop in the end of a coat hanger, and looped it around the pin that you pushed, then used the coat hanger to push that, when needed.

 

[WrightWay]

Selahdoor- I think at this point I'm going to change the key lock cylinder, and if no change then consider the push button. Kinda like that fix. The key right now works everything fine but the starter so... Thanks for your help. Any others specifics on a momentary on button woul Be great but I can likely figure it out with the advice you gave.



I had to haul hay wagons with a F150 gasser Today on short notice. Good truck had a/c but not the same. Wagon pushed around and the V8 did not want to run 35mph w flashers...

 

[Selahdoor]

Believe it or not, this little switch is what I am using for my glowplugs.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-20-amp-push-button-switch/cti0/85980?q=momentary+on+switch&pos=8

It only has to switch the solenoid that feeds the glowplugs. Same as your switch will only have to switch the solenoid that feeds the starter solenoid. Doesn't take much amperage to do that. This switch will do 20 amps.

And I love how inconspicuous this little button is. Almost disappears on the dash.

The wiring is simple. Find a fused power supply of ten amps or more. Feed that to one side of this switch. Connect another wire the the other side of this switch, and run it through the firewall, out to the solenoid. You can cut the existing wire off, out there, and connect your new wire to the end of it, instead. Retaining the connector that way.

Or, if you don't want to go through the firewall... The wire you have connected to the second side of this switch... Merely run it down to the clutch switch. Disconnect, or cut the wire that comes from the ignition switch to the clutch switch. (So you don't backfeed to the ignition switch.) And tie your new wire in, instead.

One advantage to doing this is that you can disguise the button switch or hide it somewhere, so no one can start your truck without opening the hood and jumpering the solenoid manually. I thought about hogging out the cigarette lighter, and putting the switch in there. So that you push the lighter in, to start, and pull it back out to stop the starter from spinning. Never did it because sure as anything, some passenger was going to push it in while tooling down the road, to light a cigarette.

 

[1mouse3]

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-20-amp-push-button-switch/cti0/85980?q=momentary+on+switch&pos=8

I like this one that I have for glow plugs and still need add the toggle one next too it for fast-idle/cold-advace

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https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...witch/cti0/84822?q=momentary+on+switch&pos=14

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Believe it or not, this little switch is what I am using for my glowplugs.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-20-amp-push-button-switch/cti0/85980?q=momentary+on+switch&pos=8

And I love how inconspicuous this little button is. Almost disappears on the dash.

I use the same switch for my GPs! If you aren't looking for it with good light you can't find it. Would be sweet for a push button. The spring is quite strong too.

 

[WrightWay]

That helps. I am going to take a look at the ign switch on an older f250 that's available for parts. Not sure the year But late 80s I think. Worth a look.
Is it worth replacing the key lock cylinder? Or is that a long shot?
Glad to have the button option if all else fails, just makes sense, found this 50 amp with a brief look. Selahdoor you had mention getting at least 40 amp switch. Guess I could even spill coffee on this one.

 

[Selahdoor]

I like that switch too. Almost recommend it. But it's 20 dollars more than the one I did recommend.

I can't recommend for or against replacing the lock cylinder. I replaced mine the week I got the truck. But that was because mine was obviously broken. Like someone had tried to start it with a screwdriver. The "wings" just spun on the thing.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

found this 50 amp with a brief look. Selahdoor you had mention getting at least 40 amp switch.

All you're doing with a start button is activating the fender mounted solenoid. That doesn't take much amperage because it's only a light wire that does this same job from the factory. 40 or 50 amp rated buttons are overkill for this. A 10 amp button, fuse, etc. would probably be just fine.

The "wings" just spun on the thing.

From what I've seen, that seems to be an issue with the OBS trucks no matter what engine they have. As long as your key switch is working fine, I would leave it alone, but once it starts acting up, you may as well just go ahead and replace it.

 

[1mouse3]

Glad to have the button option if all else fails, just makes sense, found this 50 amp with a brief look. Selahdoor you had mention getting at least 40 amp switch. Guess I could even spill coffee on this one.

It is only about 3 amps to trigger a starter relay, I have one for my glow plugs and this is amp check of it.

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