Starter solenoid(s)

[chillman88]

I'm not looking forward to messing with the dreaded 3rd bolt that I've read about. :-(

The correct length of extensions makes it much easier.

For the new starter you're going to want a swivel socket. I didn't have enough room for a socket and a swivel but no problem with a swivel socket. Should be 1/2" hex unless the bolts have been changed.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The correct length of extensions makes it much easier.

Once you have that figured out, it's not all that bad. Here again, I think that most people make it harder than it really is. Just like pulling out one of these engines.

 

[Jesus Freak]

The correct length of extensions makes it much easier.

For the new starter you're going to want a swivel socket. I didn't have enough room for a socket and a swivel but no problem with a swivel socket. Should be 1/2" hex unless the bolts have been changed.

Once you have that figured out, it's not all that bad. Here again, I think that most people make it harder than it really is. Just like pulling out one of these engines.

Right on. The correct extension should put the rachet just behind the starter. Nothing to it......... unless the previous owner did something stooooooopid!

 

[Brian VT]

I got the new starter in and now it turns over when I jump the large solenoid posts.
But still not when I turn the key.
I jumped from the + battery terminal to the small post on the solenoid using a light tester. The light lit (confirming there was current flowing) but the solenoid didn't click. So I figured bad ground or bad (new) solenoid.
I jumped from the + battery terminal to the metal base of the solenoid. The light lit. I think this confirms that I have a good ground?
So back to NAPA and exchanged the solenoid. Mounted the new, new solenoid. Same thing. No click when I jump the small post to the + battery terminal.
Could I have gotten 2 bad solenoids from NAPA? What else could it be?

 

[Nero]

Use an actual wire or screwdriver to jump power to the small terminal. Battery juices are used up by the light and may not provide enough amperage to activate the solenoid.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Could I have gotten 2 bad solenoids from NAPA? What else could it be?

It's possible. Before you try anything else, check to see if you have power to that small wire when the key's turned to the start position.

 

[Brian VT]

Use an actual wire or screwdriver to jump power to the small terminal. Battery juices are used up by the light and may not provide enough amperage to activate the solenoid.

Bingo. Thank you! I never would have thought of that.
So now I now the solenoid works. That's progress.

No, I'm not getting juice to the small wire when I turn the key to start. So I guess I'm going into the steering column. :-(
Thanks again!

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Try lifting the shift lever while trying to start. Or try putting it in neutral.

James

 

[IDIBRONCO]

No, I'm not getting juice to the small wire when I turn the key to start. So I guess I'm going into the steering column. :-(
Thanks again!

You're welcome. It may be in the column or it could be a broken wire. I think that there should only be one wire in that bundle that attaches to the actual switch on the lower part of the column that has power when the key is in the start position. If if has power, then there's a broke wire between there and the solenoid. You can trace it down or you could run a new wire to the solenoid off of the part by the switch that has power.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Try lifting the shift lever while trying to start. Or try putting it in neutral.

James

True. That's one that I forgot about too. I guess that comes from mostly driving standard transmissions for so long.

 

[Brian VT]

I did mess with the shifter position and also tried neutral. Thanks for the thought though.
I started a new thread about the ignition and fuel (edit: neutral) safety switch since I'm past dealing with the solenoid.
Thanks again for all the replies here.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

There is no fuel safety switch. That is all mechanical unless someone's changed something.

 

[Brian VT]

Sorry. I meant neutral safety switch.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

When my 83 did this and I finally determined that the wire was broken somewhere between the switch and solenoid. I just cut the factory wire near the switch, soldered on a new wire and routed to the solenoid.

I also had my 84 do the same thing about a month later, it ended up being the neutral safety switch. It is a c6, only way I could get it to start was by holding the key in the start position and slowly start pulling the shifter toward reverse. I currently have the plug jumpered on the frame, was supposed to be temporary but that was several months ago so I will call it a semi permanent fix.

James

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I just cut the factory wire near the switch, soldered on a new wire and routed to the solenoid.

You can also do that to bypass the neutral safety switch.