Starting issues after solenoid relay replaced

[WrightWay]

92 7.3 NA- had normal starting all spring- this truck needs glow plugs when cold but once warm always starts immediately Replaced solenoid on fender years ago and gp relay in past.
Month ago had weak start and replaced an 8 year old battery, issue resolved.
Week later had intermittent no crank when key turned to start. Dash lights but no crank, let it sit, try a few times it would start normal. GPs, strong batteries, easy start.
Decided to change solenoid relay on fender, bought good part 'Blue Streak' i think, as this was easy and not spendy. Unhooked batteries, followed hook up protocol.
Then truck had no crank, no dash lights/gps nothing. Unhooked batteries again, installed old relay and same result. Nothing, That's where i sit. Truck has no job right now so not in a hurry but puzzled.
When you turn key to start, the odometer flickers on then goes out. If you turn key slowly to 3/4 start the odometer comes on and correct mileage (no other dash lights) shows but turn further and all goes away. Checked fuses seem good. Plan to check solenoid attachment to fender, maybe no ground there? Need help....

 

[tradergem]

I had similar starting problems with my truck a couple of years ago and it turned out to be the ignition switch that is located down on the steering column was starting to separate into two pieces. After I replaced it the truck started fine.

 

[WrightWay]

Thanks I've read about that and in the past I have replaced the lock cylinder but have not been into a steering column before. Is the ignition switch easy to get to?

 

[Big Bart]

Some thoughts

1) Just make sure there is not a wire near it that fell down, was pushed away that did not get hooked back up to the power side.
2) Make sure that the power feed wire from the battery to the solenoid is clean and making a good connection. (Not sandwidched between two corroded connectors.) I always take a small wire brush or sand paper to every eyelet when ever I pull wire connectors off.
3) You may have simply had a wire ready to go, just the act of moving them and bending them while replacing the solenoid did a connector or a wire in. Trace the wire that supply's power to ignition from the solenoid. Try first looking at the end connector, then try wiggling by the solenoid with the key on to see if power starts to hit the dash.
4) As far as no ground to the soleniod, that would not cause your issue of dash lights. It would just keep the solenoid from engaging and powering the starter. (It is not be the ground for the dash.)
5) If all is good at the solenoid, based on your comments when turning the key you get mixed results test the ignition switch power delivery voltage. (Should be very close to battery, if not you have a voltage drop due to a bad connector or wire.) If you have good voltage test again while you turn the key to on. (Often it is a load/strain on the circuit when you see voltage drop.) Nex test the power coming out of the ignition swtich for voltage and look for voltage drop with the key in the on position. No or lower voltage, then replace the ignition switch.
6) I do not know if a 92' has a power relay. Perhaps the ignition key powers a relay, then all your dash and other devices power up. If so it could be your power relay is bad, or the wiring to it has an issue. So look on google images or search posts here for a wiring diagram if you do not have a repair book.

Take some pics and post, let us know what you find out next. But I think Tradegem might be right because you said your odometer seems to briefly work when you goof around with the key.

 

[WrightWay]

OK Ill follow that advice and repost. At mercy of the rain today looks like.

 

[tradergem]

You have to drop the dash panel under the steering column, then remove the two bolts that hold the column up to the dash frame to allow the column to fall down a few inches.
Then you will be able to see the ignition switch mounted to the upper left side of the column. The switch is held on by two nuts. Make sure the key cylinder is in the off/locked
position before removing the switch so that when you put the new switch on it will engage the actuator rod properly.

 

[WrightWay]

This truck started today several times. Rain quit for afternoon so I went thru wiring to solenoid on fender and cleaned connections, all looked good, but still same no start with no dash lights. So I took off panel over fuse box above pedals ( 2 torx screws and 4 clips on top) and barely wiggled the ignition switch. Tried to start it for some reason and it did. Drove it, shut it off several times, restart normal with dash glow plugs etc.

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Strange- I'm not sure if coincidence with switch wiggle, and still have intermittent starting issue or switch is failing. I am not practiced with a multi tester btw
Think I need to check clutch neutral switch as well? As it was unhooked when I got truck years ago and I hooked it back up.
I left the cover off over the switch and can see how it does as it's not a DD right now.

 

[TNBrett]

A lot of guys like to bypass the clutch switch. I prefer to have it functioning properly. That being said, there can be issues with them. On my truck I had to put a couple of shims behind the switch to get it to work without pushing much harder on the clutch than I should have had to.

 

[Big Bart]

Couple things.

1) Solenoid looks nice and clean. Nice job.
2) The clutch safety switch would only effect things in the start position, thus would not cause a lack of dash lights in the on position.
3) That yellow wire in the above pic closest to the ignition switch, is that just discolored or is their a problem right above the zip tie? The wire turns color above the zip tie, but I cannot see what is causing it. (Looks like it is perhaps burned.). Also pull the connector off the ignition switch and take a look to see if you notice any burned or coroded wires.
4) If you are not handy with a multimeter I would suggest replacing the ignition switch, it could be a wire or a dash ground, but you keep having a change of events when turning the ignition switch. So most likely the switch is going out. If that is not it we can walk you through how to use a multimeter.

 

[WrightWay]

Thanks tradegem, TNBrett, and Big Bart.
I'll leave clutch switch alone.
Truck started perfect this morning couple times.

Interesting- when the truck initially started (switch wiggle) yesterday, I set the E brake and the e brake indicator light came on in dash next to ABS light. Have never ever seen that work on this truck in 10 years, it went off when brake released and not been seen again since despite using e brake- strange

The yellow wire in question did not look burnt upon close inspection but obviously been altered (red tape) before my time with this truck
What is that 'switch'? It is loosely attached below ignition switch. Yellow circle in photo- maybe looks newer then original parts?
I'm reluctant to unplug or mess with the ignition switch when truck is starting now....and raining again anyway....

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But I probably will order and replace so I don't get stranded somewhere.
I assume Motocraft is way to go... but i bought a Motocraft solenoid relay and main terminals where vertically oriented and one terminal had a crack in plastic. Returned it, bought a Chinese one, it was obviously crap- returned it.
Bought a third (Blue Streak- Mexico) and main terminals were horizontal and that's what on there.
So buy Motocraft ignition switch after I get brave enough to pull the connector off the current switch?

 

[oregon96psd]

The “switch” appears to be a connector

 

[Big Bart]

Ditto with Oregon96psd.

That does not appear to be a switch, just a connector that has two one way lock connectors. (Goes into a hole/holes but does not release easily, think Chinese hand cuffs.) Normally wires only go into a switch, in your case wires go in one side and the same number of wires out the other. Likely that white part with the hole locks slides off the grey connector. But don't fix what aint broke as they say.

Yes if you can source Motorcraft for the ignition switch then it would be best. If not others by Standard or Borg Warner should work too.

No reason to be afraid of the connector to the switch, it should come off and go back on. But if you seee somehting burnt or corroded send a pic and we can suggest the appropriate repair.

Take some pics when you replace the switch for other users to see it and post. Also let us know how it worked out. Without testing with a mulimeter there is a chance the switch is working and something else is at play. But all roads so far suggest it is the ignition switch.

 

[WrightWay]

So I'm still chasing the gremlin in this starting issue. The truck started and ran well Sunday. Monday (yesterday) I found the ignition switch in stock locally (Standard). 26.99$ Removed old one (T30 screws x 2), and 7mm bolt on back to separate connection (see photo) New switch (on right in picture) came out of box with with pin in run position, moved it to match position of old one. Old switch was crusty and pin moved reluctantly with a gritty feel. New switch smooth.
Installed new switch no problem, reconnected batteries and truck started normally- So.. things were good.
Checked that all screws were snug, replaced plastic piece over wiring, cleaned up tools, went on to a different project.
Few hours later the truck would not start, Had all dash lights and glow plugs, but at start position on key switch no crank- Took new switch off with two screws and all looked fine, reinstalled, no change....
No sure what next move is but starting to think about clutch switch and key lock cylinder again.
At least these parts are relatively inexpensive and available.

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Appreciate any insights

 

[WrightWay]

Pardon the multiple images- old Ipad keyboard has a delay

 

[Big Bart]

Some thoughts.

Let’s recap

1) Old ignition switch was hard to move. Was not giving power to truck or lighting dashboard.
2) New ignition switch worked once, then not the second time. But second time dash lights worked.
3) Multi meters are a little foreign to you. So we may need a test light to use instead but let’s see.

BTW your wiring all looks good, no corrosion or burned wires.

I think you found the cause of your lack of dash lights. A worn out ignition switch. So you likely have fixed that issue. Likely a second issue is something is warn and not allowing power to pass. Ignition switch is not being pushed far enough by lock cylinder and arm. Clutch safety not engaging. Starter is bad.

I know this is captain obvious stuff, but did you make sure the clutch was depressed when you tried to start? You have a clutch safety switch. Also try pushing a little further on the clutch.

First test.

Also next time truck does not start us a piece of wire to jump battery positive to the small top post of the starter soleniod. Let’s not assume the starter is not going out. If the starter is good this trick will make the starter turn over.

Second test.

We need to determine if the new switch is good? When you encounter it is not starting but the starter using the above works. My suggestion is take the new ignition switch off, push in the clutch, and then move the post manually to on. Let the glow plugs heat up, then move the switch manually to start. See it the switch and wiring work first. Standard is a good brand in my opinion, so most likely it works. (I am wondering if something in the column is not moving the switch to start when the key is moved to start. You have high mileage on your truck so parts are worn.)

If the switch is not causing the truck to start then we need to use a test light (Clip is hooked a ground, light point is used to test for +12v.) to see if the switch is putting out power to the clutch safety switch. Then if the clutch safety switch is sending power out to the wire on the small post of the starter soleniod.

Ok the switch worked and truck started. Time to put the ignition switch back in. First thought is did the ignition switch post go into the matching hole/part so the ignition switch rod (Guessing what is between switch and key that moves.) is where it is supposed to be and all lined up. If so is there a way to adjust the switch? I see the one side of both switches has a oblong hole, suggesting there is some adjustment on the switch. Try to adjust so the start function now is working. If not to your point you may now have to see if there is something worn out. Ignition switch lock cylinder perhaps is worn or the part between it and the ignition switch is worn and needs to be fixed. I have not pulled mine apart. So not sure if that part between wears down.

So let us know what you find now.