Solid axle swap questions/gear ratio decoding. Figured there would be a tech thread??

[Thefarmboy21]

Ok so here's the situation....I was planning on a Dana 60 swap later on but all the parts are locally available and will be scrapped at the end of next week, so I need to act fast if I want to save this one.

MY truck is an 87 F-250 4x4 with a ZF-5 in it from the factory.
The potential parts truck is a 91 F-350 4x4 with a recently snatched ZF-5.

My questions:
1. Can I decode either VIN # to find the gear ratios and/or how do I read the rear end tag on these trucks. They're not as simple as the older fords. PLUS it may e the fact that the tags are bent and worn so maybe the numbers are flat.
2. What all do I need to grab? I'm thinking just the leafs, axle and steering bar????
3. How much height will I gain from the 350 springs? Like an inch? Because I just want to level it out. Mine looks like it has a saggy front end :/

Anything and everything I need to know is appreciated. I can snatch the whole setup for $150 I think. That's if I can talk the wifey into it hahaha! Christmas makes everyone's wallets a little on the empty side

 

[franklin2]

Look on the door jamb sticker and see what the axle code is. The original solid axle setups had a double cardan joint front driveshaft for some reason if you want to get that also. You also might need the flange off the transfer case that the driveshaft mounts to if it's different from yours.

The rear factory spacer blocks under the rear springs where 2 inches thicker on a solid axle f350 versus a f250 ttb if that tells you anything.

 

[Optikalillushun]

Ok so here's the situation....I was planning on a Dana 60 swap later on but all the parts are locally available and will be scrapped at the end of next week, so I need to act fast if I want to save this one.

MY truck is an 87 F-250 4x4 with a ZF-5 in it from the factory.
The potential parts truck is a 91 F-350 4x4 with a recently snatched ZF-5.

My questions:
1. Can I decode either VIN # to find the gear ratios and/or how do I read the rear end tag on these trucks. They're not as simple as the older fords. PLUS it may e the fact that the tags are bent and worn so maybe the numbers are flat.
2. What all do I need to grab? I'm thinking just the leafs, axle and steering bar????
3. How much height will I gain from the 350 springs? Like an inch? Because I just want to level it out. Mine looks like it has a saggy front end :/

Anything and everything I need to know is appreciated. I can snatch the whole setup for $150 I think. That's if I can talk the wifey into it hahaha! Christmas makes everyone's wallets a little on the empty side

if the truck isnt already, jack it up so the axle is off the ground. spin the tire/wheel/rotor one full turn and count the times the driveshaft spins. that will be the gear ratio (example, if the driveshaft spins 3 1/2 times for each tire rotation it'll have 3:55s). U can also rear the door tag, but at some point axles/gears may have been changed.

u will need the axle, track bar, track bar bracket, steering, front driveshaft and yoke off the transfer case, leaf springs and the u bolt cup/plate on the driver side. basically if its attatched to the axle take it.

lift will be determinted by spring age, engine, etc but roughly 1-2". Also, if u have a dana 50 front axle u can re-use the hub, rotors and lockouts.

 

[riotwarrior]

Door jamb sticker is best bet for info on axle code...if not then grab that 60 any way so you can at least have it....change gears later as needed!

So what you SHOULD get!

Springs, track bar and frame mount, complete steering including pitman arm.

- Unbolt springs from the shackle mounts on the F350

- if you can remove the pitman arm off the steering box. if it won't come off, remove steering shaft going to box, cut lines and ubolt the 3 bolts holding box to frame, wire tie it up to axle...take box/pitman arm complete with axle!

- unbolt the track bar mount from the frame cross member save the bolts and leave attached to axle!

- cut or remove brake lines going to calipers

- undo shocks...

Roll axle out complete with springs, trackbar and mount going to frame, tie rods/pitman arm and steering box if need be...

That's about it...keeps the whole package as a package to roll under your truck when needed!

I'd worry less about axle ratios for now and just grab that complete 60...grab the rear end too if you need too.

JM2CW

BTW...just tell the wifey that this whole setup as I described...is worth 10X what your paying for it! It is BUY NOW ciritical purchase to save money for later!

If she gives ya flak...Tell her Riot said it is a good deal and she should bow to the wisdom of the collective!

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Hahaha! So what do these setups usually cost???

I figured the drive shafts were the same since both had the same tranny's and cases.

I have both door tags. F-350 axle code is 39 and my F-250 code is either C3 or C5. It's a really worn out tag

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Do the tags have the ratios on them like the old ones. Because in the corners I see a worn 55 on one tag and what looks like a worn possibly 4.10 but can't tell. So I'm thinking possibly a 3.55 and 4.10

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Under further investigation my tag does not say 4.10 it says clearly:
V132C
L 10 10 2 7F19

The other tag is not as clear and reads:
V??5C
? 55 10 2 0J27

Those are both rear end tags. Mine is in much better shape than the F-350 (that I only have a picture of)

 

[riotwarrior]

Grab drive shaft too....better to have it....n not need it than need n not have!

Axle Codes as follows...there is not a C3 code
39 3.55 6250 FORD REG


C5 4.10. 6250 FORD LIMITED SLIP

I'd suggest grabbing the rear diff too....

The setup as I described to unbolt on a good day $1500.00 ...on a bad day 1000....add a 150 for that rear diff as a package deal

Grab the rear lift blocks too BTW...

That about sums up my suggestions!

 

[Thefarmboy21]

Hey thanks, that helps a lot! I may just try to buy the whole rolling chassis. The guy has another Dana 60 out of a powerstroke too for $100 BUT it's just the housing. Just sucks I'm laid off right now, cause I'd buy the whole truck and the other front lol.

 

[DesertBen44]

Man you are in a good position; Cant even find a d60 for under $1000 out here.

If you can scrounge up the money while laid off I would buy it asap, even if it sits and you dont get to install it for months, change axle gears, whatever; it is still a great deal.

 

[franklin2]

Under further investigation my tag does not say 4.10 it says clearly:
V132C
L 10 10 2 7F19

The other tag is not as clear and reads:
V??5C
? 55 10 2 0J27

Those are both rear end tags. Mine is in much better shape than the F-350 (that I only have a picture of)

You got the info in another post(decoded door stickers) but just to let you know, the factory usually punched the hole for the bolt right through the first number of the ratio. So the "L 10" is really "4 L 10" and is a 4.10 ratio, and the "L" means is is limited slip. The " ? 55" is the same way, the poked the bolt hole right through the "3".

People say they use the regular f250 style front driveshaft with success during a conversion, but it makes you wonder why the factory used the other style shaft on the f350 solid axle trucks. Look at it, and if it's the f350 shaft, it will have a large end on it with what looks like 2 u-joints very close together.

The couple of f350's I have driven and rode in, the owners regularly forget and leave the hubs in, not realizing they are locked in and the frontend is turning. That's how smooth these things are. All the 4x4's I have had, you could always tell when the hubs were locked in, there is always a little bit of vibration from it. Even the ranger I have now you can tell when the auto hubs are in and I need to back up 10ft to unlock them.

 

[swervyjoe]

I'm planning spending $1000-1500 to put a Dana 60 under my f250. $100 is just plain criminal.

 

[riotwarrior]

The front drive shaft on the F350 has a double cardan joint at the tcase cause the F350's are higher up than the chicken wing trucks and need that to eliminate vibration found in the normal two u joint shafts...

GET the front drive shaft too....as I said before...it's very important..your old one can be an emergency spare if need be!

 

[Thefarmboy21]

I think he wants to keep the driveshafts though. He's using the transmission in a different truck I think. The driveshafts, tranny, t-case and pedals are already out of the truck but I think he has them still.

 

[Optikalillushun]

Both of my friends i basically did the conversion for re-use the F-250 front shaft, but ran into clearance issues with the crossmember (both were lifted approx 6-8"). No vibrations, or binding but i told em to use a F350 shaft if they can find one.