So Reman A/C Compressor shot?

yARIC008

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All the literature for all hydrocarbon refrigerants state to use lower pressure/weight.

Mbolton, next time stick the cans in warm water first.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

The stuff comes with a conversion chart. My OEM spec is 72 oz of R12. Duracool equivalent is then 27 oz.
 

yARIC008

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I don't know about duracool. But with any refrigerant the charge needs to be very close to exact. Can't just throw refrigerant at it and hope it works

I would agree, but everytime Ive done it with any other refrigerant it kinda starts cold then gets colder and colder as you go until you get it right on. In my case this time it just kinda didnt do that at all. Started out hot then stayed hot with a high low side pressure.
 

yARIC008

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Ya know,this might sound weird but when I was putting R134 in my van, it would only take it if I held the can upside-down..
Right after I did that the A/C got cold immediately! My reman compressor has a front seal leak, I'm hoping a can of stop-leak might get me by for awhile.. who knows.

This kinda is my usual experience too. Unless you rev it up high to get it sucking it in hard. For the duracool it says to charge with can upside down, as said i kinda tipped it back and forth to hopefully not hit compressor with a slug.
 

franklin2

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I would agree, but everytime Ive done it with any other refrigerant it kinda starts cold then gets colder and colder as you go until you get it right on. In my case this time it just kinda didnt do that at all. Started out hot then stayed hot with a high low side pressure.

That's been my experience also. It will work if it's low on charge, just not very good.

I was thinking about your symptoms, if the orifice was clogged you would think it would have very high high side pressures and very low suction pressures. I am leaning toward a compressor problem like you are.
 

OLDBULL8

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I see you have an E350.
Does it have the dual A/C / Heat system? Probably does with a 72 OZ charge.
Set both on MAX COOL and HI fan, Rev to 1500 RPM, charge until frost shows up on the LOW side line to the accumulator, bleed off until the frost disappears back into the coil. That should give you a real cold A/C.

With HI humidity an overcharge can cause the coil to freeze and cut off air flow.
 

yARIC008

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That's been my experience also. It will work if it's low on charge, just not very good.

I was thinking about your symptoms, if the orifice was clogged you would think it would have very high high side pressures and very low suction pressures. I am leaning toward a compressor problem like you are.

I'm pretty sure only possibilities are stuck open variable valve orifice or bad compressor. I think my new orifice valve came in today. Gonna try that with 134a.
 

F350camper

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Hey Eric, just as an FYI. Walmart has their supertech house brand of r134a @4.88 a can right now.
 

yARIC008

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So, I've got an update. I'm pretty much totally boned, the universe doesn't want this project to succeed. I evacuated the duracool and decided to change out/inspect the orifice tube to see what was going on and replace it with a new one. I open it up and pull the tube out and it's COVERED in crud, like grade A sand/crud. So..... that sucks, where the hell did this come from? I flushed all the lines and the new condenser very thoroughly before this was put back together. With this much crud right at the orifice tube the only thing I can figure is it's coming out of the condenser for some reason or it's coming out of the compressor. I pulled the line to the rear evaporator loose and ran flush through it to confirm crud there too and a whole bunch of the same crap came out, so my expansion valve in the rear is probably boofed now too, NICE!

So to figure out where it came from I decided to see if it was downstream of the compressor and upstream of the condenser. I pulled the discharge line from the compressor and ran flush through it, sure enough, a bunch of similar crud came out with some obvious metal shavings.

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I'll need to pull some more components out to flush the suction line into the compressor to see what is there, those lines are more difficult to get to, i need to pull the whole rear AC unit out again. I suspect there will be none or very little. I didn't run this very long and I bet the accumulator caught anything that made it past the orifice tube in the front and I bet the expansion valve in the rear caught a fair share too. Only thing that might be there is something that made it past the expansion valve. So, suffice it to say, i'm going to pursue a replacement compressor and now have to pull the condenser and try to flush really good and I guess replace the accumulator and maybe rear expansion valve. What a freakin' disaster.
 

mbolton1990

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I read in the shop manual if you have a a/c compressor failure you need to clean out the entire system (pieces from the old compressor get sent throughout the whole system) I forget the process and I don't have the manual handy atm but Ford goes into depth with that issue.

Best of luck,on the bright side at least it just cooled down nice and you should be able to get by with no a/c for awhile if need be.
:D
 

yARIC008

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I read in the shop manual if you have a a/c compressor failure you need to clean out the entire system (pieces from the old compressor get sent throughout the whole system) I forget the process and I don't have the manual handy atm but Ford goes into depth with that issue.

Best of luck,on the bright side at least it just cooled down nice and you should be able to get by with no a/c for awhile if need be.
:D

The old compressor hadnt failed, it was just 25 years old, so i replaced it. With this new one apparently having failed, I'm going to pull the condensor out and flush it real good. I bet the majority of the crap is still in it. I will then reflush all of the lines. I will replace expansion valve, orifice tube, and accumulator with new again. One good thing, everything is easier the second time, so shouldnt take me long to do. And yes, cool weather helps. Just in time to not need the A/C, hah.

I see some inline filters you can put in too, AC Delco or something, i might do that too.
 

chris142

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Honestly, i have no idea, some of the junk was clearly metal in nature, the rest was gritty kinda.
The grit is the dessicant. It like sand and is contained in a bag.the bag broke and ran the dessicant through your compressor.thats where the metal came from
 

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