So I went in for an alignment and....

[The FNG]

So I went in for an alignment inspection at two shops. The first one said hey there's nothing wrong here and your steering issues are just how these trucks are. The second shop said, ummm we need you to come look at this... And gave me a $1200 quote for suspension bushings, a steering gear box, ball joints, u joints for the ttb axle, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, etc. I actually believe them on that though because there is no way it's just ok the way it is. Definitely sticker shock though.

My question is how much of this stuff can I get done myself? My level of expertise is somewhere between novice and moderate and tools are limited. I was hoping to do bushings for the suspension and the gear box. How hard are these and what are some good options? Which do I steer clear from?

Thanks!

 

[jrad235]

You know, $1200 ain't terrible if they include installing a new/rebuilding your gearbox, I had a quote to rebuild one for ~$600. I was also told that the front end on my truck cost $1000 to have rebuilt, but I know they didn't do the gearbox because it leaks like a sieve. Unfortunately I'm not terribly familiar with the TTB, so I can't tell you how painful it would be to repair yourself!

 

[HammerDown]

It's both funny and sad...more SAD that one shop says you need all this work and another doesn't.
I only let one local shop do my alignments...he's a stickler for detail but outta all the Fords I've seen, mine is the only one that > while backing-up the 'camber' doesn't look like it went out. This is what I've been told.

 

[bab029]

outta all the Fords I've seen, mine is the only one that > while backing-up the 'camber' doesn't look like it went out.

Wow, I thought this was just a behavior of the twin I-beam. Even after new ball joints, rad. arm buhsings, and axle pivot bushings my truck still does this....

 

[GOOSE]

That isn't a horrible price considering the work being done. You will need the ball joint press tool, pickle forks, possible a torch to get the suspension bushings out, a good air compressor and air tools, a shop press goes a long way doing axle shaft U joints..... and a place to work. Personally, I have done of that work myself in the past and put the labor costs towards tooling up. A good shop manual can walk you through the jobs you mentioned. Good luck which ever way you proceed. A solid front end gives a good peace of mind.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Wow, I thought this was just a behavior of the twin I-beam. Even after new ball joints, rad. arm buhsings, and axle pivot bushings my truck still does this....

mine does it a little bit but you have to look at it to see it.

 

[riotwarrior]

Look at this a different way, you can purchase parts, and tools for less, and learn to do most of the work yourself.

That gives you satisfaction in having learned new skills and owning something SHINY and new...tools!

For the most part, parts replacement is not overly difficult. There are plenty here that can assist in how to do things with descriptive threads etc.

Take wheel bearings, they are messy but they are quite easy to do actually.

Bushings for twin traction beams, well that's hard work but doable, Ball joints, that takes some specialty tools you can rent, but could very well be beyond your skill set at this point,however that's only for you to decide. It is about Time/Money versus your ability.

I'd suggest a third opinion on the truck, and then get to some parts stores yourself and price out accordingly all the parts you need. Then you can decide what your willing to do.

Hope this gives you some ideas...


Al

 

[RLDSL]

I was about to say, considering parts alone would be around half of that, and the labour hours involved, that doesnt seem horribly out of line on price, heck , just teh allignment for that thing is probably around $125 min done right. You break it down, it doesnt sound unreasonable. Still doesnt mean it wouldnt break you, but youre going to have to pay for an allignment afterwards anyway, and theres a number of special tools involved. Tearing a front end apart is not for the weak hearted or light of tool box.

 

[79jasper]

A solid front end gives a good peace of mind.

I see what you did there. ;sly
Cough*D60*cough.

 

[GOOSE]

I see what you did there. ;sly
Cough*D60*cough.

That's not fair, it came that way from the factory. The D60 is the pinnacle of front ends but I am by no means a TTB hater, they are tuff and rarely get the respect they deserve.

 

[79jasper]

That's not fair, it came that way from the factory. The D60 is the pinnacle of front ends but I am by no means a TTB hater, they are tuff and rarely get the respect they deserve.

I totally agree there. In the little bit of wheeling I've done, I prefer IFS/TTB.

 

[HammerDown]

Wow, I thought this was just a behavior of the twin I-beam. Even after new ball joints, rad. arm buhsings, and axle pivot bushings my truck still does this....

Apparently for some (not mine)
More than once at work I had two fellow F250 4x4 owners have me pull-up and back-up several times...and were pissed my Camber didn't look messed-up and theirs did

 

[franklin2]

Ford did not sell any new vehicle, I don't care how old it is, with sloppy out of control steering.

And the guys who say "it's easy do it yourself" have to remember you said you were a novice at this. I have done two of these trucks and many other different cars and trucks, and I can tell you frontend work is never "easy". Stuff gets rusted and stuck, and requires a lot of beating and banging, even if you have all the correct pullers and separators and presses to do the job. I agree with some of the others, as much work as is required to tear one of these frontends down, $1200 isn't bad. If your frontend has never been serviced, then it probably does need a lot of this stuff. That's why the ttb gets such a bad reputation. They are driven till they are worn out, and then they get a bad rap. Rebuild them to new, and they drive just fine.

 

[Trying my best]

I was in the same situation with my old powerstroke. I too am a novice who is a cheap as the day is long. My shop wanted 1800.00 for the job. In the end I did the job, it was a pain, but I learned a lot. I also had a shop press the ball joints.

Good luck

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Two big questions: 1) What does your front tire wear look like? 2) How much slop is in your steering box?

If your front tires don't look too erratically worn, you can try to tighten up the steering box. I can tell you that the steering box isn't that hard to change, and they account for lots of "sloppy driving" high mileage trucks.

My suggestion is to put the front end up in the air on Jack stands and start looking for what's really shot. If you can manage to stay away from the u-joints on the D50, nothing is terribly hard to replace. If you have to get into the front axle u-joints, it's a big job.

Just my .02 worth, good luck whatever you decide to do