Slave cyninder install trick?

[RavenTBK]

Slave cylinder install trick?

So, is there any kind of "trick" that I am overlooking to install the external slave cylinder with its stupid retaining clip?

I've installed the new master, hooked up the line to both master and slave, pressure bleed from the bottom up to fill the master, but now I cannot find a way to get the slave to slide up under the fork.

There is a super strong spring in the thing, beyond my strength to push it back with a finger, or palm. (Same deal with the old slave...excessively strong internal spring requires two hands to push back in, even not hooked up to anything). Tried an angled approach, with the piston at a 45* angle seated in its fork divot, but it still wont budge enough to line up the clip. Even tried a prybar to move the fork out...but thats one strong ass pressure plate.

I can, with two hands pushing, move the piston back enough but theres no real way to hold it back for a long enough time to move from pressing it on the side of the trans to up where it needs to sit. Almost like the straps on the retaining plastic piece are too long allowing the piston to sit too far out.

Any tips?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Do a search on " clutch slave cylinder" plenty of threads on it. Don't have any manuals so I can't help.

 

[RavenTBK]

Unfortunately the plenty of threads that are returned through my searches over the past week have little to do with the situation I find myself in.

I actually have the stupid plastic retainer strap in place holding the piston back to its "new in box" position. However, the "new in box" position is apparently 3/4" too far extended to simply slide under the fork. My issue is getting that last 3/4 inch to get it to "clip up".

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Put the rod against the fork then shove it ont the mount. Always worked for me

 

[RavenTBK]

I must have a different fork. The "fork handle" doesnt extend beyond the mount... so there is no place to push on enough to retract the piston enough to slip onto the mount. To push the piston back on the fork, requires an 80* approach to the mount, which is basically a 90* pressure being placed on the piston. Its like trying to drive a nail from the side instead from the top...doesnt really work, and ends up bending/breaking the nail. I'd rather not break the slave.

I will go get a pic or two I guess...

 

[RavenTBK]

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Showing the awful angle trying to use the fork as a pressure point to push back the piston.
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Showing the 3/4" or so that needs to be retracted.
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Another angle of the 3/4".

 

[RavenTBK]

Found ONE thread within 17 pages of search results over on FTE that describes the issue I face. Unfortunately, he doesnt describe how he got it resolved.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1153582-slave-cylinder-replacement.html

Although I did pick up an idea for a ratchet strap around the ******* to get it compressed enough to slip under the fork.

This is another one of the stupid designs that Ford put out. Seriously, did they like hire GM engineers for a handful of years? I never had this many problems with my Bronco or my Crown Vic. *** is this?

edit: Ratchet strap idea is a no go. I am at a loss again, and there are another round of storms moving in soon.

edit2: Just grabbed the old plastic slave out of the trash bucket. It is very easy to depress the piston with one hand. It would be easy to get around this issue and push it back if I was reinstalling it. The new metal cylinder is nowhere near as easy to do.

 

[dancrowley]

Is it possible that you might have too much fluid in it? Dan

 

[Dieselcrawler]

put ratchest strap on the fork and pull it out, just like pushing clutch in. just make sure wheels are chocked.

 

[RavenTBK]

Is it possible that you might have too much fluid in it? Dan

Nope. The master has its cap off, and is about 1/4 full. Just deep enough to keep fluid over the drain hole.

 

[RavenTBK]

put ratchest strap on the fork and pull it out, just like pushing clutch in. just make sure wheels are chocked.

Tried that one earlier. The fork wont move. I need a come-along instead of a ratchet strap for that. If I could find a way, I'd jam my high-lift up in there and winch the fork back with that.

edit: Actually... let me find some of my binder chains. I just might try it that way. My only fear is bending the fork with the chain. Seriously though, it shouldn't be anywhere near this difficult.

 

[RavenTBK]

I've managed to get it put in, and it works beautifully. Filling from the bottom up does work perfectly! No air/bleed issues whatsoever.

Unlike the other few threads I've found searching google, I will post up exactly what I did to get it together, along with photos. I'll just say it involves some binder chains, a high lift, and a lot of ass put into the handle. As for right now, gotta shower and get ready to drive the beast over to the folk's house for supper.

 

[icanfixall]

As the friction disc wears down the clutch arm will get closer to the slave cylinder like what you have pictured. Thats my swag but glad you got it fixed too.

 

[RavenTBK]

Here's how I did it. This is apparently a seldom run-into issue on most forums. A majority of returned posts are all about bleeding. I managed to find one other post similar to my own thread on TheDieselStop too.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums...ylinder-swap-295294/?highlight=slave+cylinder

Well, the thread I posted above from FTE gave me the idea for the ratchet strap.. which didnt work. My semi-smartass answer to the reassurance from Dieselcrawler above gave me the bright idea that ended up solving the problem.

Parts list:
1x 20ft binder chain
1x high lift jack
2x bolts&nuts to attach binder to jack

Directions:
I wrapped one hook end of the binder around the clutch fork, as close to the transmission as possible, and hooked a loop.

I wrapped the other end around the right hand side (front) rear leaf spring shackle. That seems a little confusing. I took the other hook end of the binder to the front shackle of the right rear leaf spring, passing the slack chain over the top of transmission crossmember.

I used the high lift jack as a winch, in its usual setup. Don't know how that works? Look up google, theres plenty of info. Been doing it myself for years and years.

After the slack was removed from the chains, it took three pinholes of lift to bring the fork back far enough to pop the slave in its clip.

Reverse procedure to get all the crap out of the way.

If you've bled/filled the clutch from the bottom up, like has been mentioned on the site a few times before, all you need to do is test drive it. Success.

View of the clutch fork pulled back, and the slave installed fully into its clip.

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View from behind the tranny crossmember, looking forward.

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View from drivers side looking towards passenger rear. Chain passed underneath driveshaft.

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icanfixall, thanks for the tip about the clutch wear. Makes sense. Seeing how far I had to pull, I am guessing my clutch disc is about 60-75% worn. Time to begin saving.

 

[Rot Box]

Thats pretty slick. Thanks for posting your solution