School me please

[wmoguy]

Ok I've got a renewed interest in getting a Diesel Suburban for the wife. The goal completely stems on the ability to run my WMO cocktails I use in my Ford IDI and the massive savings in fuel costs I'm seeing in that rig.

From what I understand, the 93+ GM Diesels have the DS4 pump, which has an optical sensor that doesn't much care for "colored fuel" so those years are out of the questions for me.

Questions I have include:

1. I figure I'm pretty much stuck looking at the older/square body style Suburbans that date pre-1991. What are the "quirks" of these year vehicles?

2. What quirks does the 6.2 have?

3. Can a stock 6.2 handle a turbo w/o it blowing apart? (obviously kept at safe boost levels, etc..) I was thinking I'd toss on an HX35 and set the gate @ 12 psi or something like that?

4. What kind of mileage is realistic to expect from a 1/2 4x4 Suburban w/ the 6.2?


What else should I know?

 

[spencergt66]

I have had 3 6.5s never tried the WMO on them I think there is a way around the sensor though. The 6.2s are underpowered stock need a turbo but most the 6.2s are old school vehicles. I have read alot of people do run WMO in them also the 6.2 is alot Easyer to work on compared to the 6.9s 7.3s (not that thoes are hard at all) that's all I can tell you for sure

 

[Black dawg]

you want 89-91, nicer burbs and shoulder belts all the way to the back. But shoulder belts will bolt in to the earlier burbs.
you want barn doors
the 6.2 will handle a banks kit just fine, the 700r4 most likely will not.
In my 1/2 ton 4x4 with banks kit, mileage was always 21-23
After I made it 3/4 ton it got 19 once, but usually 20-21

I have never owned another truck that got that kind of mileage, always went 750 miles (40 gallon tank) before filling up.

 

[towcat]

I like my '85 barn door burb alot
even though I am missing 2nd gear and 4th gear I still pulled 18mpg
the 6.2 is a well matched motor for the 'burb and imho does very well with the Banks turbo. 'burb thinks it's a gasser when you dump the throttle.
downside? THM700 is weak. Also, never overheat the motor.

 

[Kevin 007]

I have had 3 6.5s never tried the WMO on them I think there is a way around the sensor though. The 6.2s are underpowered stock need a turbo but most the 6.2s are old school vehicles. I have read alot of people do run WMO in them also the 6.2 is alot Easyer to work on compared to the 6.9s 7.3s (not that thoes are hard at all) that's all I can tell you for sure

I don't know about them beign easier to work on. Glow plugs, return lines and injectors are tucked away under the head, hard to reach and see. Injection lines are a pain to get off, as we all know where they are routed. Therefore valve covers are a pain to take off to as the lines have to come off.

But I still like the 6.2, good fuel "smileage"

 

[towcat]

I don't know about them beign easier to work on. Glow plugs, return lines and injectors are tucked away under the head, hard to reach and see. Injection lines are a pain to get off, as we all know where they are routed. Therefore valve covers are a pain to take off to as the lines have to come off.

But I still like the 6.2, good fuel "smileage"

it could be worse.
GM had some intelligence in seperating the cooling system from the intake so you can pull the intake without opening up the cooling system. that's a huge bonus in my book. one more thing, swelled up and broken GP in a 6.2/6.5 non turbo? no problem. remove the injector and you have all the room in the world to fish out the tip. an IH requires pulling the head.

 

[wmoguy]

it could be worse.
GM had some intelligence in seperating the cooling system from the intake so you can pull the intake without opening up the cooling system. that's a huge bonus in my book. one more thing, swelled up and broken GP in a 6.2/6.5 non turbo? no problem. remove the injector and you have all the room in the world to fish out the tip. an IH requires pulling the head.

Oh you know how to sell me Calvin!
I relish the thought of a swollen glow plug not costing me a couple grand in head removal/work again.

Now to find a decent rig that's not thrashed. I'm finding them hard to find in Colorado.

 

[towcat]

Oh you know how to sell me Calvin!
I relish the thought of a swollen glow plug not costing me a couple grand in head removal/work again.

Now to find a decent rig that's not thrashed. I'm finding them hard to find in Colorado.

1989 DIESEL 4X4 2500 SERIES SUBURBAN, - $2500 (LOS BANOS)

Date: 2012-01-19, 1:22PM PST
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]
CLEAN INTERIOR,LOADED, RUNS GOOD, DRIVES GOOD,ONE LEAKING INJECTOR,$2500 OBO..CALL 408-313-4076

• Location: LOS BANOS
• it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

You must be registered for see images

PostingID: 2796688007



dunno if it is barn door or not.

 

[Kevin 007]

Grab it!!!

 

[IH8MUDTOO]

And regarding WMO in a 6.2L, there is a lot of recent discussion on the dieselplace.com forum (look under the 6.2/6.5 category).

I've had to replace some parts for routine maintenance--rear axle seal, brakes, brake master cylinder, muffler-back exhaust, headlight. I've not noticed too many "quirks".

The heater plenum box is widely problematic--its due to GM using a plastic lever attachment on the vent "door" which opens/closes depending on which environmental control you choose--defrost, heat, vent, air-conditioning. Over time it becomes frail and breaks, making some controls seem to not work, or work poorly. I've read on one or more forums that it is an inexpensive dealer part, and I've read where someone in the past had machined some metal ones for sale, but that was several years ago.

I love my '89 1500 Suburban with 6.2L and 700R.

 

[tanman_2006]

I would point you toward thetruckstop.us for a great bunch of guys to help with 6.2's and 6.5's. Diesel place frowns upon new ideas and rarely is any help to new comers (they ticked me off).

If you want to run over 6-8 psi on a 6.2 it needs head studs and felpro 6.5L turbo head gaskets. I run a wh1c holset (early hx35) on my 93 and it gets decent mileage for the tank it is. I would consider the new turbo promoted at TTS or an HX40 for a pure mileage rig.

The 700R4 can be upgraded to handle the new found power or install a 4l80 with a 92-93 TCM (there are other options out there for running a 4l80)

NEVER let the coolant get over ~220 or egt's over 1200 for any real length of time.

You COULD upgrade (or downgrade how ever you wanna look at it) a 94-00 burb to a mechanical DB2 pump if you desired the creature comforts of newer rigs.

with 3.42 gears a burb can get 20-25 but wont be a race truck.

6.2's and WVO go great together.

 

[tanman_2006]

And regarding WMO in a 6.2L, there is a lot of recent discussion on the dieselplace.com forum (look under the 6.2/6.5 category).

I've had to replace some parts for routine maintenance--rear axle seal, brakes, brake master cylinder, muffler-back exhaust, headlight. I've not noticed too many "quirks".

The heater plenum box is widely problematic--its due to GM using a plastic lever attachment on the vent "door" which opens/closes depending on which environmental control you choose--defrost, heat, vent, air-conditioning. Over time it becomes frail and breaks, making some controls seem to not work, or work poorly. I've read on one or more forums that it is an inexpensive dealer part, and I've read where someone in the past had machined some metal ones for sale, but that was several years ago.

I love my '89 1500 Suburban with 6.2L and 700R.

The fuel lines and fuel filter will obviously need upgraded with a WVO set up and a J Code non EGR manifold is a good addition.

 

[wmoguy]

What do you guys think about this 83' Burb?

he says it has fuel problems?


http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/2858038600.html

Think this is a decent deal? Did I read somewhere that the 83 or 84's had some block issue?

 

[Black dawg]

I would jump on that.

 

[towcat]

What do you guys think about this 83' Burb?

he says it has fuel problems?


http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/2858038600.html

Think this is a decent deal? Did I read somewhere that the 83 or 84's had some block issue?

two-fer $900? if so, I'd be all over it.
the early blocks were tough as nails compared to the later due to higher nickel content in the iron. the heads are unique in the early motors where the injectors were fine thread vs. coarse thread in all of the later heads. the valvetrain is also different in the earlier heads compared to the later.