Rocker Troubles AGAIN!!!!

[Drew2010]

well guys, some of you may remember a few weeks ago, I had a rocker arm bolt back out and come loose. it didnt do any damage, so it got all put back together... more details on that here:http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54629

Anyway... over the weekend, I was driving along and all of a sudden, it was doing the same thing. I was only a mile from my shop so I turned around and got my 96. When I checked it out, there was a hairline crack in the valvecover and the same rocker had come loose again what In the world would be causing this. the pushrod was bent this time. I took a rocker assembly and pushrods off my old engine and its back together now... but im getting a little chuffing noise through the turbo when it runs...

Idk, I have little faith and I dont see it staying together for long, Ive had some valve train noise since this engine went in, I dont know if its too much or normal? Anyone have any experience like this or have any ideas what would cause this? Im starting to get frustrated with this truck and would really like to get it working as it should.

What do I do next?

 

[typ4]

valve spring cooked black, bad guides will cause this.

 

[Drew2010]

valve spring cooked black, bad guides will cause this.

the valve spring did not appear to be cooked, looked like all the others.

bad valve guide could do this? im guessing it would allow enough movement for the bolt to rattle loose?

 

[towcat]

bad valve guide could do this? im guessing it would allow enough movement for the bolt to rattle loose?

yes.
it's allowing the valve to move around..

 

[Drew2010]

could I try pushing on the valve spring seeing if the valve is moving, or would it not be enough movement to be noticeable?

also, if there are other guides that are wore, could this cause my valve train noise?

 

[Drew2010]

could I try pushing on the valve spring seeing if the valve is moving, or would it not be enough movement to be noticeable?

also, if there are other guides that are wore, could this cause my valve train noise?

bump for a ?

 

[hesutton]

It may be difficult to tell with the valve spring holding tension on the valve. But, don't pull the spring without bringing that cylinder to TDC. Don't wanna drop the valve down in the cylinder........ unless you are at the point where you are going to pull the heads anyway. And, I think you are. If one guide is bad, the rest are likely to be on their way out as well.

Heath

 

[Drew2010]

damn, when I had this engine apart I really wish I would have brought them to the machine shop to be checked out, When I had the heads off before it went in i gave each valve a push, nothing noticeable, but I did not pull the springs....

looks like this engine is coming back out oh well...whatta gonna do.

looks like I should prolly park this thing before something happens, like a valve and piston having a get together...

I think Ill pull the heads off the old '90 engine and bring em to the machine shop to save time....

Heath, IIRC didnt you just get your heads gone over? If you dont mind me asking, what did they all do, and how much did that set you back?
Oops I see you just posted they were done today... I thought you had them already.

 

[hesutton]

Heath, IIRC didnt you just get your heads gone over? If you dont mind me asking, what did they all do, and how much did that set you back?
Oops I see you just posted they were done today... I thought you had them already.

Drew, I hope to have them tomorrow. They magnafluxed for cracks and pressure tested them. New valve guides where machined into the heads. I wanted the Manganese Bronze, but they didn't have the equipment to hone them after reaming. So, I got hardend cast iron guides. They put in new valves (the stems were worn and a few exhaust valve faces where pitted). I used Perfect Circle intakes and Stelitte faced exhaust valves. Not sure who made the one's I got. Several companies make them. They were shipped directly to the machine shop. I'll have a look and see when I get them back tomorrow though. Both the intake and exhaust valves have a 0.010 margin so they are fine to put in heads with a used seat.

They did a 3 angle grind on the seats with a 2 degree interference on the third angle. They put in my new Comp 910 springs, new spring retainers, and new valve seals with a teflon ring rather than using the standard seals that came with my VR headgasket set.

Cost for the machine work was $410.26. That doesn't include the price of the valves or spings.

Heath

 

[Drew2010]

Drew, I hope to have them tomorrow. They magnafluxed for cracks and pressure tested them. New valve guides where machined into the heads. I wanted the Manganese Bronze, but they didn't have the equipment to hone them after reaming. So, I got hardend cast iron guides. They put in new valves (the stems were worn and a few exhaust valve faces where pitted). I used Perfect Circle intakes and Stelitte faced exhaust valves. Not sure who made the one's I got. Several companies make them. They were shipped directly to the machine shop. I'll have a look and see when I get them back tomorrow though. Both the intake and exhaust valves have a 0.010 margin so they are find to put in heads with a used seat.

They did a 3 angle grind on the seats with a 2 degree interference on the third angle. The put in my new Comp 910 springs, new spring retainers, and new valve seals with a teflon ring rather than using the standard seals that came with my VR headgasket set.

Cost for the machine work was $410.26. That doesn't include the price of the valves or spings.

Heath

Dang, so prolly another $600+ into this thing by the time I buy new valley pan and head gaskets. Then add bolts or studs...

Im sure I wont re-use the head bolts either since they have been used twice...

ugh I hate to ask, but whats the going rate on studs for the 7.3? I would like studs, but just for s&g what would new head bolts cost?

On the other hand maybe my old engines heads will be in better shape and require less machining? who knows, I never had any trouble with the valve train on that engine...

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

this thread has a link to some arp studs......
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55153

 

[typ4]

valves are another thing I have available.
stainless with stellite face and tip.

 

[Drew2010]

how much Russ? PM if you would like.
Also Russ what is your cost on studs?

I assume $80 to $85 for the comp 910's is pretty much the going rate?

 

[hesutton]

I assume $80 to $85 for the comp 910's is pretty much the going rate?

I searched eBay, Summit, Jegs, Northern Auto Parts, and the like for the best price. At the time I bought mine, a seller on eBay was the cheapest. $81.95 with free shipping.

Russ, who makes those valves? EngineTech, SBI, Elgin, DYNAGEAR/MANLEY? I'm not sure which ones I got from Justins buddy. I'll find out today when I get my heads back.

Heath

 

[Drew2010]

well I pulled the heads off my old engine today, found a diesel machine shop that should be able to take care of my needs. I will try calling there tomorrow.