Replacing Valve Cover Gaskets

[cleithau]

Does the blower motor plastic case have to be removed to do the valve cover gaskets? I was barely able to get an open ending wrench on the far back bolt on the cover below the blower motor case. But I'm not sure if I can get a bolt back in there if I were to do the gaskets? What do people here recommend putting on the gaskets? Can the cover be sealed with just sealant? Probably not just wondering. What all has to come off to replace the passenger side valve cover?

 

[david85]

My engine kit came with rubber gaskets, others come with cork. I like the rubber because they don't settle as much when you first install them and they can be reuse more often. No you can't use only sealant on this engine, although depending on what the type and condition is of your current gaskets, you might be able to reseal them with sealant.

I use a ratchet with a 2" extantion to reach the rear bolts. As it so happens, I also have a U joint 1/2" socket that makes it easier to get at that rear bolt. No, the heater cover doesn not have to come off, its a tight squeeze, but it will come off.

 

[subway]

i got mine right off with my 1/4 drive set if i remember correctly. i agree i like the rubber better. i put mine on dry but a THIN film of silicone wont hurt. don't load it up and have globs squeeze out in the engine.

putting them on is not bad either, they have the typical push in wedges in several spots around the edge so they hold together while you load them in.

 

[sle2115]

Does the blower motor plastic case have to be removed to do the valve cover gaskets?

Does your truck have air conditioning? I just wondered as I have to do this as well. Mine does not have A/C and looks like there is enough room to make the switch without removing anything. I figure A/C adds to the complication of changing the gaskets.

Oh, and I prefer rubber as well. I use a light coating of sealer on both sides of the gasket. My go to these days is Permatex Ultra Gray, but as was mentioned, don't use too much. I also like to use sealer on both sides and have had good luck doing so. I reverse dimple the both holes as well using the ball side of a ball pein hammer and a vice opened so I can dimple each bolt hole away from the gasket. I also use brake clean to clean off the gasket surfaces just before sealer is applied.

 

[david85]

Mine has AC and it still comes off without taking the airbox off.

 

[cleithau]

cool,mine has AC. Looked like a tight squeeze. Has anyone tried Permatex Copper Coat, its the same as their high temp copper RTV but in a spray can, makes a thin even coat really easy. I used it on my valley pan gasket and its held up great.

 

[sle2115]

cool,mine has AC. Looked like a tight squeeze. Has anyone tried Permatex Copper Coat, its the same as their high temp copper RTV but in a spray can, makes a thin even coat really easy. I used it on my valley pan gasket and its held up great.

Yeah, I've used it, generally on metal type gaskets. I like a little more adhesive qualities on VC gaskets though. I used to use Permatex #2, or something similar or we had a yellow brush on adhesive that was very similar to 3M weatherstrip adhesive, just thinner. At any rate, I like my gaskets to stick on oil/emersion type gaskets.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

I didn't have to pull the blower off. Pulling the fuel filter would have made the job a ton easier. Bolts came out just fine but it kinda got hung up since it's tight in there with the fuel filter. I gave it a little nudge with a hammer & she popped out. One last thing was the insulation/foil stuff around the blower got ripped off before the job was done. Kept getting in the way.

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[RLDSL]

I always use a thin coat of Hylomar racing formula on both sides of the gasket. Seales it right up