SparkandFire
We're drinking beer
The sticker is missing on my '88 SC for R12 capacity...
anyone know off hand what it is?
Thanks!
anyone know off hand what it is?
Thanks!
Refrigerant capacity?
- Thread starter SparkandFire
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Three lbs... I use the 12 oz cans when I recharge R12 to my system. Are you going to vacuum down the system??? I hope so....
SparkandFire
We're drinking beer
Oh I wish I had R-12!
Someone's converted this thing over to 134a though...
I was planning on borrowing the HVAC equipment this weekend from work and evac/charging the system to see if it works.
it's supposed to be in the high 90's today.
Someone's converted this thing over to 134a though...
I was planning on borrowing the HVAC equipment this weekend from work and evac/charging the system to see if it works.
it's supposed to be in the high 90's today.
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
If we were able to get a hold of some r12 we could use it right? Dont the r12 get it colder? I seen a couple bottles on craigslist for sale the other day.
FordGuy100
Registered User
I would buy up all the R12 cans you find 
. Yes its much easier to get it to run colder than R134a
. Yes its much easier to get it to run colder than R134a
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
I just looked again and there is a crap load on there, many small 12 oz bottles, and there is one or two that are in the big bottles, the guy wants $100 a pound! Crazy.
Anyone interested in a r12 charging station for $100!
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/1721102751.html
Anyone interested in a r12 charging station for $100!
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/1721102751.html
SparkandFire
We're drinking beer
You've gotta have a section 609 license to buy it from "legitimate" sources. Test is easy though.
Private parties are another story...
R12 will work as long as the system hasn't been converted, main difference being the oil viscosity differences between OE mineral oil, POE, and PAG.
You could always convert it back.
On a system designed for R12, R12 will always cool better. The systems originally designed from the factory for R134a have larger condensers to increase the refrigerant to air contact surface area. Since R134a has less heat capacity, and a higher boiling point, the system has to work harder to acomplish the same task.
R12 is some gooood stuff!
Private parties are another story...
R12 will work as long as the system hasn't been converted, main difference being the oil viscosity differences between OE mineral oil, POE, and PAG.
You could always convert it back.
On a system designed for R12, R12 will always cool better. The systems originally designed from the factory for R134a have larger condensers to increase the refrigerant to air contact surface area. Since R134a has less heat capacity, and a higher boiling point, the system has to work harder to acomplish the same task.
R12 is some gooood stuff!
cetanefreek
Full Access Member
clicky
anybody else ever run this stuff? I've had great luck with it in our old tractors and combines, a lot cheaper than R12 ($100 / lb isn't really far off on that stuff) as I get it for around $8 / lb. and you don't have to have a license for it. designed to be used in an R12 system with no modifications, just evacuate the system and charge it with this stuff.
anybody else ever run this stuff? I've had great luck with it in our old tractors and combines, a lot cheaper than R12 ($100 / lb isn't really far off on that stuff) as I get it for around $8 / lb. and you don't have to have a license for it. designed to be used in an R12 system with no modifications, just evacuate the system and charge it with this stuff.
I would suggest doing a search...there's been quite a bit of discussion about Freeze 12 in the past on this board. It's like asking people what brand of oil they prefer or who they voted for...some people firmly believe in Freeze 12 and some people are violently opposed to it.
IMHO if you have any intention of ever allowing a shop to touch your a/c system, you're best off sticking with R-12 or R-134a (using other types of refrigerant can wreck a shop's recovery system). If you will only service the a/c system yourself...well, again, I would read some of the past debates...
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
I may go pick up 3 cans of this stuff. What type of oil do I run with r12? Now id have to convert my system back over.
THECACKLER
Full Access Member
I went back to R-12. I have a vacuum pump and recovery system built from an old refrigerator compressor and a propane cylinder. well worth the time and minimal expense. Pump it down, do the repair, suck it down, let the vacuum pull it from the Propane cylinder, top it off. To my knowledge R-12 has the highest thermal capacity of all the available chloro fluoro hydrocarbons available. Why not use the best?
That 88 actually takes 3.25 lbs( 52 oz) of R12 and 10 oz of mineral oil
If you were to use R134a you would use about 41.6 oz.
With R134a , a variable orifice valve and a properly adjusted pressure switch, there's no reason you cant get duct temps in the below 38 deg range , if you are careful you should be able to get 33.
I have a 609 certification , but I just about never fool with r12 anymore, because I can get duct temps just as cold with r134a. There's just no reason to mess with the extra expense unless an owner insists on spending all that money.All it takes is a run in one of mine and they go with the 134 unless they just have their mind dead set ahead of time because bubba told em so.
Don't fool with that Freeze 12 or any of that other supposed drop in junk. If you have to even ask what it is, you have no business fooling with it. If a vehicle with that junk in it ever slips by a detector at a shop and gets into someones recovery equipment it contaminates it and leaves the shop owner with damaged equipment and a hazmat problem to deal with.
If you were to use R134a you would use about 41.6 oz.
With R134a , a variable orifice valve and a properly adjusted pressure switch, there's no reason you cant get duct temps in the below 38 deg range , if you are careful you should be able to get 33.
I have a 609 certification , but I just about never fool with r12 anymore, because I can get duct temps just as cold with r134a. There's just no reason to mess with the extra expense unless an owner insists on spending all that money.All it takes is a run in one of mine and they go with the 134 unless they just have their mind dead set ahead of time because bubba told em so
.Don't fool with that Freeze 12 or any of that other supposed drop in junk. If you have to even ask what it is, you have no business fooling with it. If a vehicle with that junk in it ever slips by a detector at a shop and gets into someones recovery equipment it contaminates it and leaves the shop owner with damaged equipment and a hazmat problem to deal with.
tknomaj
Registered User
in CA. freeze12 is contaminated refridgerant and has to be recovered from system put in to a container and hauled off as hazardous waste it is not r12 nor r134a and we cannot recover it in a shop. and the current cost of disposal 300.00 per pound. and the shops that do this have a dedicated machine just for contaminated refridgerants
cetanefreek
Full Access Member
I hadn't seen anything since I've been on this forum so I thought I'd throw it out there, just trying to be helpful, and despite what you say (I don't have a refrigeration license) I'll keep doing ALL the work on my A/C and I'll keep using this stuff, $15 in freeze12 got the air working in my old bmw IDI today versus $100+ to convert it.
burtcheca
farmer/cabinetmaker
I need to add a couple of R12 to my van. It has the original system designed for R12 still. Where can I get it?
Thanks.
Burt
Thanks.
Burt
