Rear Axle Seals

[beretzs]

Hey, I am going to change out my rear axle seals today. Just bought the new ones from NAPA, 30 bucks a side, but anyhow, can anybody give me a run down of whats needs to happen when I switch those out. Haven't did it in a long time and can't remember any special tools or anything. I am going to start taking the tires off and getting the rear up on jackstands, so I will be checking back in frequently. Thanks. Scotty

 

[beretzs]

Well, I got the drivers side hub off and the good news is the bearings are in good shape, the bad news is I have grease all over the breaks, drum, and about everything else, so I need to get the old seal pressed out and the new pressed in, and since there is not alot of material left on the rears anyhow, I am just going to spring for new shoes for the rear. The drum is in great shape, so I am not going to mess with that. Figures, thought it would be an easy job, but nothing ever ends up easy with this truck. Scotty

 

[Roland_Jenkins]

Really not sure of the procedure for you application
Back off the drum brakes if so equipped.
Put a can under the axle end to catch the oil.
Pull the axle.
Pry up the tabs on the star washer and remove it.
If you have a spindle nut wrench, remove the spindle nut. If not you can mickey mouse it with a long screw driver or punch.
Remove the retaining washer.
Remove the inner spindle nut.
Remove the drum.
I use a wooden dowel to punch out the old seal.
Install new seal. I use a rubber hammer. Take your time and tap it in.

 

[Pacific]

When replacing wheelseals you do want to take your time as Roland says you get it started making sure its square and slowly tap it in till its seated. When you put the hub back on make sure you wrap some tape around the threads on the spindle so it keeps the seal from ripping. The worst part is you get it all back together and the new seal starts to leak and soaks the brake shoes

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Scotty,
Ya might wanna even spring for the hardware kit at the same time also. Been there done that having to go back in with a broken spring. Not fun second time around. That way you can have some peace of mind that all is good back there.

Semper Gumby

 

[beretzs]

Hey, where I can get a axle nut socket? I need one bad, they require tq on them and I will not be able to get them correct unless I get that special four post socket. Can I rent them, buy it.... Need one, got the new brakes on and new seals and everything is bolted up, just need that one special socket, and I will be done with the rear end for now. Scotty

 

[apextrans]

I got one for the front axle at Western Auto. I would think they have them for the rear too.

 

[beretzs]

Don't have any Western Auto's around, but Autozone, Napa or Kragen SHOULD hopefully have one. I will look around tomorrow. Almost got everything buttoned up, but without that socket I am at a standstill.. Thanks for the tip. Scotty

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

Hey Scotty, when you tq the bearngs I snug them down pretty good and then back off a 1/4 turn, I like a bearing running on the loose side over a tight bearing. After tq and backing off I spim the wheel and if it turn easy then it's good to go............. Jim

 

[Agnem]

Scotty, probably too late now that it's Monday morning, but are you aware of the upgraded axle seal? Click Here

 

[beretzs]

I think those are the seals that I got from NAPA. Not positive though, theyhad two different styles, one with a metal casing and one with a rubber type casing, with an oil slinger deal which they called the updated one. I bought the updated one. I need to get that hub wrench in order to finish this job up. I don't feel confident using a punch and hammer to get that set up right.. Scotty

 

[John Deere]

Napa should have the socket, and check your axle vent to make sure it is not plugged, every time I have a rear seal go out it is due to a plugged vent.

 

[Agnem]

I know the updated seal comes with a new inner bearing ($$) required by the change in dimensions, so it's important that you match the right seal to the right inner bearing.

 

[L.Wilkinson]

I know the updated seal comes with a new inner bearing ($$) required by the change in dimensions, so it's important that you match the right seal to the right inner bearing.

Another tip for these two piece seals assemblies; start up is a lot easier on them if you rotate the inner and pull it away from the outer, then squirt a few shots of oil inward on the opened passageway. Push it back into full contact and turn the two pieces independently to give the seal internal surfaces some prelube just prior to installation. (most don't have lubrication within till the gear oil spill down and works its way within the assembly.
Lorne

 

[beretzs]

I repacked all the brakes with some good synthetic wheel bearing grease, bought the proper spindle socket from Kragen and buttoned everything up really nice last nice, tightened everything down to 80 ftlbs and then backed it off the 4 clicks. Put a bottle of 80-90w gear oil in and then took her for a test drive. Well, having rear breaks is a huge bonus. My rear brakes probably not working at all for a long time. Both of the insides of the drums were covered with oil and grease, so there is no way the old brakes were doing much of anything for me. Brakes are good and after a 20-30 mile trip last night, everything seems good. I will keep my eye on it for awhile, but I tried to keep everything really clean and lubed the new seals.. Next, time to move on to cooling system. Scotty