ive seen 13" daytons with 8 lug 
or was it 2 different 4 lug patterns?
gotta have the whitewalls tho
or was it 2 different 4 lug patterns?
gotta have the whitewalls tho
Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
I'm not trying to say she's dead and gone or anything like that. I'm like IDIoit, I'm pretty skeptical that you will get a satisfactory result by just trying to straighten it. You could probably do a lot of cutting and bending and welding and pull it into shape but, it may be time better spent to pick up another cab and cut it off a few inches above the rocker and around the firewall and do a transplant. You wouldn't have to lift but a few inches to get the cab off so height wouldn't be an issue. Just hang the doors on it and massage it until the gaps line up.
Or make it a convertible.... Pretty cold for that up where you are.
By all means do what you need to do to get by but weigh your options carefully before you spend a bunch of time/money on something that may end up needing replaced anyway. That's all I'm saying. I spent a year fixing a cab I know will have to be either swapped or fixed again because I'm a moron.
Or make it a convertible.... Pretty cold for that up where you are.
By all means do what you need to do to get by but weigh your options carefully before you spend a bunch of time/money on something that may end up needing replaced anyway. That's all I'm saying. I spent a year fixing a cab I know will have to be either swapped or fixed again because I'm a moron.
IF by "moron" you mean have the desire and the will to fix, create, and build your own project,
i am in complete disagreement.
i call these type of folks innovators, completely capable, and willing of doing what needs to be done.
we need more of you folk in society. people like you and Greg do what it takes.
**** happens, and we would all do it over...
just sucks that greg has to do it again so quick.
but not a doubt in my mind, that it will be the way he wants it!
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
You missed the part where the whole dash is different? With its mounts welded as part of the firewall, and bunch of other stuff too... So he either needs the OBS dash as well with all the electronic BS that goes with it, or like you said cut and weld... Which idk about you, but to me if he's gonna be cutting and welding might as well fix the cab he's got now, then at least he won't be throwing hundreds of $$$ away.
Also, on the front side of the firewall, it's not the engine harness that's the issue, it's EVERYTHING! About the only thing OBS and bricks have in common there is the heavy cables for the batteries, all else will require repinning connectors and cutting and splicing. Which admittedly isn't that big of a deal, but it is time consuming, and definitely not work for wintertime in unheated garage...
junk
Full Access Member
Sucks man! Thats a solid hit there. I'm no expert, but I've done 20+ wrecks over the years. So i've tried pulling cars out myself.
If it was my truck. Here's how I'd think about approaching it.
1. How bad is the B-pillar? Is it crushed and beat up? Or did the roof collapsing pulling it in for the ride. They are pretty straight so once you get the doors off and get the interior plastic off you can eyeball it for straightness. If it's straight just pulled in I'd consider using it. If it's bent in or smashed i'd replace it.
2. that roof will need some serious help. I'm also concerned about the structure above the doors that the skin ties into. Looks like it really got the area above the B-pillar. Which sucks. If it was in front of the b-pillar you could use parts from a regular cab. As it stands I think you need crewcab parts.
I'd attack this by getting it stripped down and seeing what I had. Headliner will need removed also and most passeneger side interior trims. I'd probably tie it to a tree and give a pull. I dont' think you will get anywhere. I think it will stay put. So then I would probably cut the worst of the roof buckle off with a plan to reskin the roof or patch it. Then try pulling it out. heat and a BFH will be your friend on all the roof cross bars. windshield needs to come out so you can porta power the a-pillar back into place. Measure, measure, measure. Don't care what the dimensions are, but they could be the same side to side. Also check diagonals in the cab a lot to see where it's going. See how it comes out. Pull it as far as you can then start removing more metal for replacement. A-pillar and above passenger door. B-pillar if needed etc. Last thing I'd put on is the roof skin.
Now a nicer way to do this is strip it down so it's easy to work on and take it to a frame shop. I'm guessing $400 would go a long way. Around here shops have a flat 125 or so to get it on the table and 50-75 per hour after that.
New cab would be super. But you have a completely custom cab setup. So whatever you do it's some work. If you piece it together you could use a side cut from any 80-97 crewcab. My guess is finding that in michigan would be feasible. For roof patch you could use regular cab pieces and piece it back in.
Check out Arthur Tussik on Youtube some time. He'd have this truck done in 15 minutes on a video.
Good luck let us know how you come out.
If it was my truck. Here's how I'd think about approaching it.
1. How bad is the B-pillar? Is it crushed and beat up? Or did the roof collapsing pulling it in for the ride. They are pretty straight so once you get the doors off and get the interior plastic off you can eyeball it for straightness. If it's straight just pulled in I'd consider using it. If it's bent in or smashed i'd replace it.
2. that roof will need some serious help. I'm also concerned about the structure above the doors that the skin ties into. Looks like it really got the area above the B-pillar. Which sucks. If it was in front of the b-pillar you could use parts from a regular cab. As it stands I think you need crewcab parts.
I'd attack this by getting it stripped down and seeing what I had. Headliner will need removed also and most passeneger side interior trims. I'd probably tie it to a tree and give a pull. I dont' think you will get anywhere. I think it will stay put. So then I would probably cut the worst of the roof buckle off with a plan to reskin the roof or patch it. Then try pulling it out. heat and a BFH will be your friend on all the roof cross bars. windshield needs to come out so you can porta power the a-pillar back into place. Measure, measure, measure. Don't care what the dimensions are, but they could be the same side to side. Also check diagonals in the cab a lot to see where it's going. See how it comes out. Pull it as far as you can then start removing more metal for replacement. A-pillar and above passenger door. B-pillar if needed etc. Last thing I'd put on is the roof skin.
Now a nicer way to do this is strip it down so it's easy to work on and take it to a frame shop. I'm guessing $400 would go a long way. Around here shops have a flat 125 or so to get it on the table and 50-75 per hour after that.
New cab would be super. But you have a completely custom cab setup. So whatever you do it's some work. If you piece it together you could use a side cut from any 80-97 crewcab. My guess is finding that in michigan would be feasible. For roof patch you could use regular cab pieces and piece it back in.
Check out Arthur Tussik on Youtube some time. He'd have this truck done in 15 minutes on a video.
Good luck let us know how you come out.
thanks for the input junk.
yes the B pilalr itself is relatively untouched, i came in on an angle and the tree basically crushed in the very top roof part.
my worst concern is windshield area/a pillar. Like I mentioned earlier the firewall got pushed outtowards the front as the upper part got pushed in. Heres a pic to show it a little better, hard to tell but there is about an inch gap between the dash adn the cowl now.
as for pulling these areas out im planning to weld a plate to the area where the front door attaches to with a hook on it, and attach my pulling devise to that. pull at an angle towards the front to simulate the opposite of the imact.
also saw why the rad was leaking, fan contacted it. It was small clearance to begin with, and it seems the rad jsut moved for aft in the impact tha *** touched the fan. front end looks straight.
yes the B pilalr itself is relatively untouched, i came in on an angle and the tree basically crushed in the very top roof part.
my worst concern is windshield area/a pillar. Like I mentioned earlier the firewall got pushed outtowards the front as the upper part got pushed in. Heres a pic to show it a little better, hard to tell but there is about an inch gap between the dash adn the cowl now.
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.as for pulling these areas out im planning to weld a plate to the area where the front door attaches to with a hook on it, and attach my pulling devise to that. pull at an angle towards the front to simulate the opposite of the imact.
also saw why the rad was leaking, fan contacted it. It was small clearance to begin with, and it seems the rad jsut moved for aft in the impact tha *** touched the fan. front end looks straight.
i didnt miss it. just sharing my opinion man!
ive done a brick to OBS conversion
the a& b pillar and the top rail can all be welded in.
the only thing i did under estimate is the winter..lol
junk
Full Access Member
Getting into the cowl like that really sucks. It will be a ****** to get fitting. I would put a good rear door on and get the b pillar sittng good and work my way forward. I think your going to cut that a-pillar and roof inner structure out there. Then piece it back in. Removing or cutting some relief cuts in the front door area may remove enough support/stress to get the cowl hinge area rolled out again and get the b-pillar and rear roof/door opening area pulled back out. Once they are looking good then piece in the front a-pillar and door jamb/roof area from donor cab. Skin roof done.
Cowl repairs suck. Also sucks the dash is broke, but maybe for the best. It really needs to come out to do the repair anyway. The passenger side of the cab will be way shorter 1-2 inches I'd guess compared to the drivers side because of the wreck damage. That's why get the rear door and b-pillar sitting square and then fit front door to that. You will probably need to weld in some temporary braces to hold the b-pillar square and in position until the front door opening is all pieced back in.
You have your work cut out for you but overall could be a fairly cheep repair.
If you were closer I have a red dash I'd give you.
Jeremy
i got a lead on a reg and a single cab that i can cut up on the spot. I can at least the get A pillar and a bunch of roof skin.
guy is asking 100$ for a like new windshield already taken out and the a pillar with roof skin.
pass fender for $40 OBO
probably need to shell out another 200 on the rad though..doubt they will warranty mechanical impact damage.
called 2 body shops and sent them pics, seeing what they can estimate
guy is asking 100$ for a like new windshield already taken out and the a pillar with roof skin.
pass fender for $40 OBO
probably need to shell out another 200 on the rad though..doubt they will warranty mechanical impact damage.
called 2 body shops and sent them pics, seeing what they can estimate
i will get you #'s today.
i have the trim on my windsheild, hope i can get it off today as well, as they need to be powder coated
i have the trim on my windsheild, hope i can get it off today as well, as they need to be powder coated
i will get you #'s today.
i have the trim on my windsheild, hope i can get it off today as well, as they need to be powder coated
I did a tech article on the clips... its in the stickies.
What measurements do you need? My trim is off.
i was thinking what would probably help too, if is i pull with the farm jack on the A pillar, AND push from the inside witha portapower...but that means spending 120 bucks on a portapower. Still looking around. Im hoping to get the truck into position this weekend between the trees to see what can and cant be done with just force and cutting alone.
Liek junk mentioned, maybe it would be good to cut at the a pillar and similar to releive some pressure, and pull these components individually.
Hate that the fenders hold up the hood and battery. Need to jimmy up soem kinda of extra holding tray for all these components while the fender is out, because i still need to drive this things around the yard!
Liek junk mentioned, maybe it would be good to cut at the a pillar and similar to releive some pressure, and pull these components individually.
Hate that the fenders hold up the hood and battery. Need to jimmy up soem kinda of extra holding tray for all these components while the fender is out, because i still need to drive this things around the yard!
laser, I am looking for diagonals of the windshield frame, top and bottom of A pillars from the outside basicaly.
Also overall width top and bottom. see the MS pic, if you could put the number to the appropriate letter would be a huge help!
Also overall width top and bottom. see the MS pic, if you could put the number to the appropriate letter would be a huge help!
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The replacement windshield will make a good template. Sorry to see this.
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