Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[IDIoit]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?70357-gauge-sender-placement

dislcrawler posted a pic with oil passage ports, check it out.

you may want to get a set of turbo valv covers. as your glow plug controller will not fit in its stock location anymore.

or you can weld a pad to hold the controller to the valve cover.

 

[Greg5OH]

R&d guy suggested i put a weld on NPT bung 0on the front IP access cover and run it to a catch can tehn into the turbo for breathing. I might be doing that.

thanks for that link, hmm kind of sucks theyre all so low but shouldnt really be an issue..just have to pay more money for a longer feed hose! And woudl take longer to get oil into the turbo as well.. Ill see how it is, going to take the bellhousing block plate off and see if i can get a nice largere 90 degree tap on there and have the line exit away from the uppie.

 

[laserjock]

If you are running electric fuel pump you can return your oil through the fuel pump block off plate. It would be a nice drop into the pan and take care of any aeration issues I would think. I'm thinking catch can on mine too but from the crank case/CDR into the intake. I'm a little nervous about pumping all my oil through more external stuff than is actually required but that's just me and my typical insecurity about my work.

Edit: BTW, the way the banks kit relocates the CDr is by pulling the blow by from the plate on the front of the gear case with an adapter and hose to the relocated CDr.

 

[Greg5OH]

great idea baout the fuel pump block off plate oil return! as the valley drain back is really congested now witht eh turbo right above it. Should a -6 line be large enough? i think for a short section liek 6" it woudl be fine but now it will be like 3 feet long. Dont want any pressure build up in the turbo.

Is the CDR necessary? Or just catch can then straight into intake would be fine?

 

[laserjock]

Help me out. -6 is 6 X 1/16" right? So that's 3/8". Probably would be okay depending on the size of your feed tube. If you feed is necked down to 1/8 at the turbo like the Garretts, that's probably okay however, it really should just be gravity pulling it down so -8 might be more appropriate. That question is a little over my head to be honest.

The CDR is essentially a check valve to keep the engine from sucking its own oil into the intake and burning it as I understand it. Supposed to eliminate runaways from that mechanism. Is it neccessary to function? No. Engine will run just fine without it. The road draft tube (RDT) guys can vouch for that. I think the consensus was that it is extra insurance. There was a thread on runaways and CO2 fire extinguishers a while back that I think talked about the function and liklihood of such a thing happening. I think Sycostang has a really functional catch can set up. Not sure if he is running a CDR with it or not.

 

[Greg5OH]

Thank you sir. Ill be going with a -8 or 7/16ish line then. I dstill liek to dump it into the valley pan where stock CDR is as that woudl give a nice straight down shot for the oil and woud;lnt have to use any 90 deg fittings. Well see once the turbo is bolted up again.

 

[laserjock]

I would guess with a -8 line, it wouldn't matter if there were a couple elbows in it. Just a guess. I'm not running CFD calcs to figure it out right now.

 

[IDIoit]

if youre worried about the slow oiling to the turbo, you can use an oil accumilator on it.
we use these in the dirt mods so if oil pressure drops, the accumilator will feed the engine.
same principal for the turbo.
or just let it idle, and set an oil sender on the oil inlet of the turbo.
im sure most turbo's have a lack of oil on initial start up.

 

[Greg5OH]

true, jus tlike mains, there is always an oil film there to prevent a dry start. just gotta wait a few seocnds for flow to get into there. thats why its no good to tun the key and floor and engine.

accumulator sounds like moneys and time, but a nifty idea regardless

 

[Greg5OH]

my luk solid conversion should be 8in this week!

 

[IDIoit]

only morons start their engines up and put it to the floor.lol
and people who want to blow their engines...
myself, im only a moron when it comes to my friends cars... hahaha

 

[BDCarrillo]

-6 is way too small, -8 is kinda too small. Similar size garrets use -10 an or 3/4 silicone drains. Standard T3 drains adapt to -10 an.

In this case bigger is better since you'll have a 3' run... I'd be cautious about it and slow flow in the mostly horizontal run.

Why not put a bulkead AN fitting through the turkey pan, right below the turbo?

 

[Greg5OH]

^thats my orignal plan, gotta see hpw it is actually bolting stuff together if you can get a wrench on the stuff there.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Drains aren't pressurized so a silicone pipe with hose clamps will work just fine. Attaching a barbed or straight nipple may be easier anyway

 

[Greg5OH]

new shop. probably need to put a bigger door on it to get the truck in!

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painted back of the cab

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