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[whiteboyslo]

Good questions. I use www.crutchfield.com for questions regarding fitment, and even they show that both 5.25" and 6.5" fit (which, of course, isn't right. It's either one or the other for a direct bolt-in). I THINK the measurement is the diameter or the speaker, including its chassis (in other words, not just the cone). FWIW, my 91 uses 6.5", and crutchfield shows both diameters for mine as well.

The bulge you describe is odd, but not unheard of. Assuming you didn't install them with the grille over them, the only other thing I can think of is that the new speakers are taller because of an additional tweeter or two in the center (this is what's meant by a speaker being a 2-way or 3-way). If you can't find speakers short enough to clear the panel, you have a couple of options:

A) Cut the panel and use the grilles to cover the hole (wouldn't be the way I go, personally)

B) Install components. Components are speakers where the tweeter is an entirely separate unit, as opposed to having it in the center of the speaker. Aside from fitting better, they generally offer better sound and give you the opportunity to mount the tweeters in locations more ideal (from an acoustic standpoint). Downside is they cost more and you have to get a bit more creative finding places to install things like the tweeter and the crossovers.

Personally, I'd just keep shopping until you find one that's short enough. Might have to make a run to Best Buy with a tape measure!

Mike

 

[FordGuy100]

I have 6.5"s in mine. Mounting holes where off from the factory location, I just drilled some new ones. Dont think mine bulged out at all. They are Pioneers but dont remember the model #'s

 

[redneckaggie]

as to placement of the amp I think you would be just fine with that much room and the addition of the fan would only make it safer,

most 6.5 and all 5.25 speakers should fit into the doors, I almost consider 5.25 speakers to be a waste because if you look at the flange to bolt it down it is way bigger than the cone on the speaker, no such gap on 6.5 so you are maximizing the speaker for the amount of space that it is taking up.

 

[whiteboyslo]

I have 6.5"s in mine. Mounting holes where off from the factory location, I just drilled some new ones.

Same. I used a couple of the stock holes and drilled a 3rd.

Mike

 

[dizdak]

crutchfield is good, any local car audio shop can get you in the right direction too with sizes and what you need / want... myself i love Kicker brand products, everything in my truck is kicker brand aside the head unit..i installed a 7" flip out head unit, 6.5" Kicker component speakers (speaker, tweeter, and crossover) in my front doors, in the rear it's 4x6? Kicker component, again speaker, tweeter, and crossover, i also custom build a sub box for 2 Kicker 10" subs for behind the rear seat, have a kicker 200x4 amp pushing all the component speakers, and have a kicker 500x1 mono amp pushing the 2 subs.. my truck is no competition bass monster, but at 65mph with the windows down you can hear and feel the music very well..

 

[riotwarrior]

Another way...to mount a 6.5" speaker...is from within the door itself...in other words pass the speaker through the opening at the bottom and make it fit inside...bolt in place...this helps eliminate the BULGE of the tweeter pressing out against the door panel.

Another tip I suggest, and this is a lil investment and a nice pay off in quality of sound. Make a baffle board. I suggest no less than 1/2" MDF medium density fiberboard. Basically what you do is create a template that fits in the door cavity against the door where the speaker sits, (cardboard is good for this template) make a board as large as you can that safely can be screwed / mounted to the inside of the door without interference of window regulator.

Make your board, screw in place and then take and mark your speaker hole, remove the board, cut the hole and reinstall, using sound deadening material/mat between the door and the board. Mount your speaker and then replace door panel.

When I get to it I'll do a HOW TO on this with tons of photos!

One member on a different forum...yes I go to other forums, suggested UHMW or thick cutting board plastic for a baffle board as it is completely water proof! I do not personally know how well it would work resonance wise, but seems logical, you can get a couple at Wallymart cheap enough about 1/2" thick and they are damn near a perfect size too!

Another useful item, not expensive either is called an XTC basket, in essence it is a floppy foam basket that goes in the speaker hole prior to installing the speaker. It covers the back of the speaker from moisture etc that may leak past window seals etc. Found here for example
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-788

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Yes Larger speaker wire is nice, its just an added benefit, the spindly ***** that comes with new speakers sucks for sure.

Again, head units purchased online, without seeing touching etc are well...not a good idea IMHO, better to touch it feel how the knobs work do the buttons feel ok (I have LG hands and need space..tiny buttons knobs are not tolerated well) Again features/functions are truly a matter of personal taste.

#1 ease of use, and non BLINDING display are important to me
#2 controls of bass/treble/balance/fader fall close second. I don't want to have to flip through a menu of 20 items to get to simple bass or treble etc
#3 added features, satellite radio compatible...nice! can a satellite radio be directly connected or is there one available and you only use the head unit? Some Pioneer have this other brands likely do to...
#4 USB/3.5mm jack, My wife had her phone plugged into the 3.5" jack...it worked as a speaker phone amazingly well. Clear! no feedback or echo like I expected. It was a good choice for her.
#5 Bluetooth, would be something I'd not consider to much as it's just as easy to add a jack, unless your phone does not have a 3.5mm jack!

ONE FEATURE I would not be without is a LINE level (RCA) output for future upgrades, be it just a two channel or more...I won't get a HU Head Unit without them. I personally prefer Front, Rear, and Sub outputs.

Amps, well again cost/brand, you for more or less get what you pay for, cheap china brand amps...may work ok, but name brand ones usually have more support. A nice four channel camp can be used as a two channel to start, then later on add either second speakers or a sub. Then if more is desired, a dedicated sub amp...the system can grow with you as you make informed and tested decisions.

Hope this helps clear up an already deeply overwhelming issue for some.

As an Orion, and Rockford Fosgate certified installer, I tend to prefer HI end stuff....but afford bargin bin usually...

 

[riotwarrior]

Just happen to have a couple doors off with no door panels and took it upon myself to snap a few quick pictures that may or may not confuse issues further!

First a shot with tape in stock speaker opening...thus the back side of a stock speaker would fit here

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Next I took a marker and made black marks on the inside radius of the depression to which the speaker sits and you can see that it is about 6.25" across....still stock opening no changes and there won't be...

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What I did in the Bronco to fit larger 6" or there bouts was take a 4 1/2" angle grinder with new disk and just grind this opening larger till the speaker fit right in real nice and no interference. If you grind the edge...I suggest removing all glass...so not to get the grinder slag burns on your glass! Just sayin.....

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And finally, this door has Power windows and thus a back board would be smaller than I would like it to be. None the less the black felt outline you may be able to see, depicts the approximate size of what a backboard could be made to work in this situation.

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Anyone has any questions don't hesitate to ask.....I may or may not have the answer!

 

[BrandonMag]

Midnight Rider:

Just to give you an idea of what a component speaker looks like installed:

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I realize that your '85 F350 has a different door panel, but what's great about the component speakers is that all you see is the tweeter and you don't have any issue with the body of the main speaker not giving you enough room.

I was hesitant at first, because I hadn't installed components before and I hadn't bought Pioneer speakers since the late '90s, but these speakers sound really good for the price. I'd recommend them. In fact, I'm pretty sure these are the ones I bought:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pioneer-6.5-Component-Set-Speakers-400W/17037933

When I get around to finishing the Cummins install in my '85 F350, the speakers I install in it will be these.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Thanks for the component picture, BRANDONMAG.


riotwarrior,
Those are some really good, seldom seen, ideas.

I like the idea of mounting the speakers INSIDE the sheet-metal, thus spacing them further back.

I really like the MDF backer-board trick.

What you are saying about the MDF is to mount the speaker behind a fitted cut-out and, thus, the MDF isolates the speaker from the sheet-metal, right ??

I really like the idea of those cover-cups, also.

I may have to fabricate a pair of my own making, should my new Pioneers arrive in time for me to install them this weekend.

Otherwise, I will for sure get a pair from Parts Express and just install them at a later date, as I doubt they could get here before Saturday.


Thanks for all the really good descriptive pictures.

 

[riotwarrior]

Thanks for the component picture, BRANDONMAG.


riotwarrior,
Those are some really good, seldom seen, ideas.

I like the idea of mounting the speakers INSIDE the sheet-metal, thus spacing them further back.

I really like the MDF backer-board trick.

What you are saying about the MDF is to mount the speaker behind a fitted cut-out and, thus, the MDF isolates the speaker from the sheet-metal, right ??

I really like the idea of those cover-cups, also.

I may have to fabricate a pair of my own making, should my new Pioneers arrive in time for me to install them this weekend.

Otherwise, I will for sure get a pair from Parts Express and just install them at a later date, as I doubt they could get here before Saturday.


Thanks for all the really good descriptive pictures.

What you are saying about the MDF is to mount the speaker behind a fitted cut-out and, thus, the MDF isolates the speaker from the sheet-metal, right ??

Actually follow along here and this may clear up the muddy water....now remember it's 5 minutes with cardboard but the idea is quality time with wood produces the results.

Ultimately the MDF back board reduces the tinny resonance from door speakers and produces a warmer richer tighter sound.

So starting with a roughed out cardboard template...I'd use cardboard to get the first general shape myself, then trace to wood. Thus we will be working in cardboard today.

The rough cardboard shape....

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I marked the hole and roughed it out and this is what I have now

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Here the cardboard (WOOD MDF/Cutting board) is being held in place I'd be checking window regulator clearances and so forth before screwing it down solid. Once all checked and cleared...Screw through door into wood or bolt in place, some sound deadener between the inside door and the WOOD, would be good too. But you can get the jist of this notice to the right of the speaker hole you can see the cardboard that's what you would see if it was wood and all clearances checked!

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Now you would install your XTC basket into the speaker hole then set speaker in place like this.....FROM THE OUTSIDE...as pictured, now this can be a stock or aftermarket speaker size your choice...pic is stock speaker for display purposes only..notice to right of speaker the cardboard/wood inside door!

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Now these next two images show the actual depth of speaker area at the top of opening and bottom. I doubt if you have 1/2 or 3/4" MDF or what ever as a back board you could install a speaker from within the door. However if you chose not to use a back board you may..MAY be able to mount a speaker from inside the door...I would not do so myself!

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I hope that this is helpful and eliminates any missconceptions.

 

[Optikalillushun]

So what ur doin is re-enforcing the door to reduce resonance from the speaker. And material doesnt matter (wood, MDF, cutting coard, etc)...

 

[riotwarrior]

So what ur doin is re-enforcing the door to reduce resonance from the speaker. And material doesnt matter (wood, MDF, cutting coard, etc)...

Basically ya it helps stop the door from making the sound tiny or well just not as good as it can be!

Yes material matters, (at least to me) the preferred material is 3/4" MDF less resonance,then 1/2" and anything else I cannot speak too, The plastic cutting board idea was one suggested to me and I may consider it some time, it's cheap, easy to cut and may prove worth while...but for me I like 3/4" MDF...I imagine you could use granite slabs if you could make it happen...or concrete too..just wood is easy to work with and somewhat standard in thickness. MDF is also simple to cut... and even bevel with flap wheel on grinder for clearance if need be. But yes any material of personal choice or on hand...I just won't comment on how the results are...

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

The depth behind the speaker hole pictures are a real big help.

Hopefully, my new speakers will arrive tomorrow.

I am anxious to get this new project underway.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Good old UPS dropped off a big card-board box full of Pioneer speakers today.

I got hurricaned out of dump-trucking the next three days, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, so if it doesn't just rain torrentially, I am going to get these installed.

After much research, question-asking, and review reading, I got Pioneer TS-A1674R 6-1/2" 3-ways for the doors and TS-X200 surface-mount 3-ways for the rears in the sleeper.

The current flush-mount speakers in the sleeper are little 4-inchers, with little room for ***********; so, seeing as how I have a very broad surface in close proximity to the original speakers, I opted for the surface-mounts.




Since the right-side door speaker had lost it's woofer and sounded weak and squeeky, I went ahead and removed that door-panel and removed that speaker.

Unless there is something I am missing, I am not gonna be able to install much of a MDF backer-board.

My windows are good old manual crankers.

The crank mechanism resides in that square hole just aft of the speaker cut-outs.

Also, there is no big opening at the bottom of the door for inserting a board; the only holes I got are the small upper access ones.

So, scratch that idea.



Seeing as how these Pioneers are bigger and fatter than the 3-ways they are replacing, and my window cranks already whisk across the bulged panels, I decided to mount them in the big fat area just underneath the arm-rest/door-pull.

I already got the hole cut in the right panel and the speaker test-mounted.

I hot-melt-glued the little U-clip screw gizmos in their proper places, to keep them from getting dis-located.

I made me some home-made speaker cups from empty bleach jugs and hot-melt-glued them over the inside of the cut-outs.

I am just waiting on day-light and no rain so I can get the door-panel back on and test my handy-work.


Thanks for all the good ideas and keep them coming.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

One more observation that prodded my decision to relocate the door speakers to under the arm-rests is that, on my 1985 at least, the little slot openings in the door-panel only expose about 1/3 of a 6-1/2" speaker, with the other 2/3s being covered with solid plastic.


The previous 5-1/4" 3-ways created a bulge in the panel that caused the window-handle to rake across the bulge with each turn.

The bigger fatter 6-1/2" were only going to worsen the problem, probably enough to prevent operating the window cranks.

So, at least from my observations, using the factory location for the bigger speakers is most likely easily doable with power-windows, yet not so easy with manual windows.

By the way, I very much prefer manual windows.


Also, the power-window door must be different from a manual window door (or it may be a year-model thing), as I see no way on my doors to insert that big slab of MDF, although I sure wanted to.