Quick A/C Question

[Drew2010]

Ok guys, i recently charged my a/c system. it was working quite well for a few days then started to fade now its low enough that the compressor wont kick on. the fill to empty took about 3 or 4 weeks, now I got to looking and the line next to the dipstick looked oily nasty, but I think it may be from the dipstick. anyway, this spot, I believe where the orifice tube goes has some play in it.

So my question is is this play causing a leak or is it supposed to be like that?

I went to look at my 96, it is a little different, but it is tight. Would an a/c stop leak fix this. I know you have to be careful around recovery equipment with that stuff, but any other reasons not to use a stop leak?

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[RLDSL]

sounds like you need some new orings on that line or you didn't get it fully seated, but if you didn't fully seat it, chances are it would have shot through your hood when you got it up to full . Remember the new orings will be wider than the flattened out things you remove from that end when matching up. Lube the orings with Nylog or r12 mineral oil but do not use pag or ester on them or they will leak.

 

[Drew2010]

So some new o-rings should tighten that connection up? Sounds simple enough.

I take it its best to stay away from the stop leaks?

 

[Brianedwardss]

So some new o-rings should tighten that connection up? Sounds simple enough.

I take it its best to stay away from the stop leaks?

Correct on both. Two new O-rings in there, wipe down the spring-seat area pretty well, and reconnect. It should click in pretty solid when you reassemble the hose, but still be able to move around a bit afterwards. To cure it from moving/vibrating with the engine, I dabbed some silicone in two spots after it was put together. I figured its not great for the o-rings to be moving around at 250psi, so the silicone dots help keep it still.

As far as stop leak, it won't help a bit with the orfice tube connection. It's only real use is sealing up tiny stationary pin holes in a hose or fitting. But it's best to just stay away from it. It causes big expensive headaches with recovery machines. If a hose has a pin hole in it, it's less than $60 for any of the hoses we have under the hood, just replace it and enjoy the peace of mind

 

[Drew2010]

Thanks guys, Am I right that this is the orifice tube area next to the dipstick right?
Can I get the o-rings at any parts store?
I think I remember reading something on here about a variable orifice tube or something (supposed to add to the cooling) Would it be worth doing while I have the line apart?
Also what tool is needed to separate the line?

 

[diesel4me2]

where are you at in illinois?

just remember you have to pull a vacuum on it to properly charge it when your done changing everything out.

 

[Drew2010]

where are you at in illinois?

just remember you have to pull a vacuum on it to properly charge it when your done changing everything out.

From Fulton, its on hwy 30 and next to the Mississippi

 

[Brimmstone]

Any parts store should have those o-ring in stock in a little kit with different sizes. I usually just go buy the kit and save the others for another ac job

 

[icanfixall]

Any good ac shop will have the o-rings you need plus.... Be sure to remove whats left of the charge in the system. If you try to just remove the connection your going to eat plenty of pressurized freon.. That stuff will blind you easily too so wear a face shield when working around it. Nobody wants to read that you got hurt from a pressurized system exploding in your face. I know... Chicks dig scars but lets not go overboard either.... We only have two eyes and usually they work very well together giving us great depth perception. Try covering up one eye and see if you can find something around you. It will make you appreciate both eyes when you know the differance...

 

[RLDSL]

Thanks guys, Am I right that this is the orifice tube area next to the dipstick right?
Can I get the o-rings at any parts store?
I think I remember reading something on here about a variable orifice tube or something (supposed to add to the cooling) Would it be worth doing while I have the line apart?
Also what tool is needed to separate the line?

Variable orifice valve will drop your vent temps as much as 12 deg at idle. they cost about $35 you can get them at Napa and Advance, they sell them under different names ( the one that cost that much is the one you want )
You will need a set of slip lock tools , you can usually get a cheap set for about $12 at most parts stores to get the fitting at the orifice tube open. You slip it around the lower tube a d pull up sharply on it while pulling on the upper fitting to separate, pull up on the tool while pushing down on the fitting to assemble the fitting ( it spreads the spring oring outward so the flared tube can pass by it )

 

[OLDBULL8]

If you charged the 90, the hose connections just screw apart, and there is an oring on the end of the tube there. Possible the A/C compressor shaft seal is leaking, use 134A with the stop leak in it. If the pressure is that low that the clutch won't engage, there is very little freon left in the system. A set of gages would be useful connected to both Hi and Lo sides, and just bleed off whats left in there. Just remove the 134A adapter fittings, and connect the R style gages.

 

[typ4]

I would only use stop leak as a last resort. There is nothing hard to get to or expensive in the ac on these trucks. Most shops will not work on stop leaked ac systems, usually replace everything, that gets pricey.!