Pyrometer Limits

[lpennock]

okie dokie well i just got done turning up the old pump and she blows some pretty serious coal when pulling a hill and i still didnt get above 500 degrees after i moved the pyrometer to the manifold between #6 and #8 cylinder so do u think it can stand to be turned up more or does ambient temp play a role in it as well?

I would wait to turn anything up until you move the probe.

Ambient temperature or more important intake temperature plays a big role. Get cold out side air in to the intake and your EGT will come down, pull from the engine compartment and it goes up. With a turbo motor it isn't hard to get a 200 degree EGT difference just by sealing the intake from the engine compartment and get air from in front of the radiator.

 

[slp20045]

thats kinda what i thought but mine doesnt have a turbo i was wanting to find a cold air intake for it though any ideas?

 

[lpennock]

thats kinda what i thought but mine doesnt have a turbo i was wanting to find a cold air intake for it though any ideas?

Build something similar to the following to get air from the cowl.
http://www.gohypermax.com/Catalog.aspx?category=8764bf08-edf2-4dc3-bf2d-73f696025ea0

 

[Danoflapper]

It surprises me that since I've joined OB I haven't seen one case of a melted down IDI.


There was one truck that was thought to have been melted down but no one had pulled it apart to see what the cause of death was. Maybe our IDIs can take more than we think they can?

 

[slp20045]

of course its all in how u drive it too

 

[slp20045]

well i turned it up 2 1/2 flats and stuck it in it and it dont mess around passing anyone anymore or climbing hill so im happy

 

[cetanefreek]

that temp seems awfully low... stupid question here, are you sure you didn't wire the pyro probe backwards? as in red wire to red wire yellow to yellow? some it makes a difference some it doesn't.

also, is this pyro the type that just has two wires? or is it the kind that does a full sweep when you turn the key on? the latter has a lot more wires and is very sensitive to proper grounding and power source.

 

[slp20045]

i have a multi function pyrometer so it does alot of differant things but aftrer tinkering with the programing it gets up to 1050 degrees WOT now

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

For what it's worth, the only pyrometer I trust is the purely mechanical two-wire kind.

I am always reading of failures and un-believable readings from any of the other kinds.

 

[OLDBULL8]

i have a multi function pyrometer so it does alot of differant things but aftrer tinkering with the programing it gets up to 1050 degrees WOT now

That just goes to show that something is wrong in the programming, when you gained 500*. Is it possible that when you say programming is that the meter can be programmed for either Celsius or Fahrenheit?

Thermocouples: Thermo= temperature. Couple= Unlike metals together.
Pyrometer= The meter that reads the voltage generated by the thermocouple.
Two unlike metals twisted and welded together generate a voltage when heated, and the meter that reads that voltage is calibrated in temperature degrees.

Conversions.
Fahrenheit to Celsius 1250* = 676*
Fahrenheit to Rankin 1250 = 1709*
Fahrenheit to Reaumur 1250 = 541*

 

[slp20045]

Well it senses voltage engine water temp and oil pressure too but i was using a thermometer on the manifold while i tweaked my pyrometer to read the correct temp

 

[MR.T]

i have a multi function pyrometer so it does alot of differant things but aftrer tinkering with the programing it gets up to 1050 degrees WOT now

500 to 1050 is a big jump. As I mentioned before, mine is not turned up and it will top out at 1250 F at continuous full power, so I am biased toward not turning up an IP (unless airflow is increased via turbo charging). Black soot out the exhaust is wasted fuel, and the higher temps are not doing the engine any favors.

And, it's easy to get a temperature reading that is low, not accurate, or representative of all cylinders. For instance the cylinder nearest the TC (thermocouple) can have an injector problem and read low, or the TC isn't inserted far enough and is sensing exhaust manifold temp more then exhaust gas temp. There is also "thermal lag" in sensing temperature -- when temp is increasing the actual temp is always higher.

In any case, a good long hill at full throttle can be used it as a poor-mans dyno for a before and after test. Check exhaust temp, and also verify if there really is a power increase (greater speed at the top of the hill).

 

[MR.T]

Well it senses voltage engine water temp and oil pressure too but i was using a thermometer on the manifold while i tweaked my pyrometer to read the correct temp

How did you use a thermometer on the manifold, and tweak the pyrometer?

 

[slp20045]

i drilled a tapped a whole in it and threaded the bung in it its a two wire thermo couple and my meter was set for the wrong style it was set for a J and mine is a K style

 

[slp20045]

and i also played around with the range coefficient setting but like i said the temp matched my thermometer since the first pyrometer reading was off by 500 degrees