Pulling Engine- Advice Welcome

[02x72]

Looks like Ive got a blown head gasket( not getting to operating temp, loosing coolant, blowing white smoke) so Im gonna have to pull the engine here soon. Unfortunately taking the front clip off the truck is not an option, so its gonna be done the hard way. I plan to replace everything associated with the head gaskets obviously, send my pump into Mel to be fixed, send my dying starter into DB Electric under warrante and replace a dying booster all at once. Is there anything else I should consider doing while the engines out aside from cleaning it real good and painting it a nice IH red? Im thinking a new timing cover gasket and possibly re-sealing the oil pan even though neither appears to be leaking, with a 23 year old engine IM sure they will start as soon as the motor goes back in. Any other suggestions from guys that have done it?

 

[rattleonby]

I'd say if your oil pan is in any questionable shape, nows the time to replace it cuz it's gonna be a mother to take off to reseal and may crack or bend/warp when you go to take it off. I would also knock the corner coolant passage plugs out of both your head and block sides. It'll make your engine run cooler bc they blocked them from the factory for emissions to make the engine run hotter. If and when you go to do this youll have to order 6.9 head gaskets that'll have the passageways opened up for those passages you now opened up. Hopefully others will chime in here for more help with that mod. I'd also inspect the heads for cracks at the precups and glow plug openings and between the valves where they are known for cracking. Also swapping over to head studs isn't a bad idea also....all i can think of for now

 

[02x72]

I was reading about the coolant passages and debating that. My truck never ran warm before, always around 195 and up to 215 on a grade pulling the Chevelle, so would there be any real benefit to doing this? I mean, diesels run better when theyre hot, so wouldn't I be loosing efficiency by doing this? Head studs may have to wait with as expensive as they are. Doing all the work that I am is gonna make things tight much less another few hundred dollars on those.

 

[rattleonby]

I'll agree with you on the coolant passages. Yes it is beneficial IF your going to work your truck hard but as you and I have both have probably worked our trucks hard, these engines can take it and i've also have not had cooling issues with my truck unless it was a bad t-stat or a fan clutch. Unless your oil pan is nice and rust free and not much scaling at all as you know now is a good time to do the pan. But a pan is expensive and if its in fairly good shape and not leaking your ok. Since your truck is a turbo i would also suggest resealing/replacing your turbo feed lines. I've had too many of my buddies blow em out just by normal driving.

 

[idi_econoline]

Well, 02x72, I don't know your experience level, but, since I'm about to do a THIRD engine pull in 3 years (a WAY crazier, but necessary, operation in a van), here's what I'm doing while it's out this time:

-- Plumbing in a coolant filter. One of my rerouted heater hoses is hammering between the alternator and the heater box, so, as long as I'm already redoing the hoses..

-- Putting in coolant drain valves at the bottom of the water jacket. Plugs exist on both sides; Parker makes nice brass drain valves. Can dig up the number if you want.

-- Genuine Navistar thermostat (installed last time) running cool , so in goes a Motorcraft unit, along with proper ISSPRO gauges for real numbers. Engine that came with my van had a small-outlet t-stat from a gasser.

Further suggestions, having learned the hard way :

-- Check those motor mounts carefully.

-- Oil cooler! If those o-rings aren't recent, the cooler is much easier to deal with when the engine's out.

Other thoughts:

-- A great time to give the interior of your radiator a serious look.

-- Take off that vacuum pump, and ensure that it's properly filled with STP.

-- With the PS pump disconnected, check the condition of the hoses. I will be flushing and installing a filter into the return line once she's up and running again.

Surely others will have more ideas. Hope this helps.

 

[icanfixall]

If your engine is not reaching the proper operating temp might want to replace the thermostst. Its probably the wrong one. Only the motorcraft works right every time. Or you can install a stant with a 1/16 holes drilled in it like another member has done. Hes operating fine and has for years like that. I have not done it but thats me and not the norm here. Also changing the oil cooler o-rongs when the engine is out is a best time to do that too. Check the front and rear main sels for leakage. If they appear damp replace them now when its easy to do. Also look at the cylinder walls for the signs of cavitation. It will look like pits in the walls.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i would do HG's in frame......

 

[02x72]

Thermostat is a new Motorcraft unit and I just did a re-seal of the oil cooler last summer when I bought it. Planning to do the ream main is probably a good idea since the engine is out and its impossible to get to while its in there. Plumbing in a coolant filter is probably a good idea as well since there was a bunch of sand and crap in the drain plugs on the block when I took them out. Aside from the obvious of just looking in the top, hows a good way to go about checking the radiator condition. Its been flushed clean twice in the last year too and seems to be fine.

 

[73idi88f350]

If your engine is not reaching the proper operating temp might want to replace the thermostst. Its probably the wrong one. Only the motorcraft works right every time. Or you can install a stant with a 1/16 holes drilled in it like another member has done. Hes operating fine and has for years like that. I have not done it but thats me and not the norm here. Also changing the oil cooler o-rongs when the engine is out is a best time to do that too. Check the front and rear main sels for leakage. If they appear damp replace them now when its easy to do. Also look at the cylinder walls for the signs of cavitation. It will look like pits in the walls.

my stant t stat sucks i didnt drill the hole but my truck dont really get warm... i wanna get the motorcraft but just no time to deal with it...