Project Big Red

[F350camper]

looking fantastic! Great work Mike!

 

[laserjock]

Well, I got it rolled over. It about whipped me.

You must be registered for see images attach

Oil pump and pickup installed. Actually broke out the inch pound torque wrench. [emoji6]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Cleaned the pan thoroughly then wiped the inside with WD to keep it from rusting. Then cleaned the rails with acetone on the block and pan. Looking at it, I quickly figured that I did not have enough rtv. So I went and got a big gulp.

You must be registered for see images attach

Beads on the pan.

You must be registered for see images attach

And pan on with bolts torqued to 19 N M

I also ran the balancer on. Longer 5/8 bolt to get it started then ran the other bolt in and torqued it.

You must be registered for see images attach

And probably the harder part which was rolling it back over. Had to enlist the cherry picker and a cheater pipe.

You must be registered for see images attach

So bottom end is pretty well tied up.

Need to get the water necks done, figure out what I'm doing with the exhaust pipes, order the pump, decide what to do with the injector lines and install injectors gp's and she'll be a runner. Also need the fuel pump block off. Probably one more weekend from setting it in place.

 

[junk]

Looks Great!

 

[laserjock]

Been out of town for a while so it's time to get rolling. Core has to go back tomorrow.

So here's what I came up with.

I took 2x6 and build risers.

You must be registered for see images attach

Rolled over and screwed through the bottom for good measure.

You must be registered for see images attach

Construction screws too not drywall screws. [emoji6]

Engine setting in place.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Room underneath. I stuck a couple pieces of cardboard underneath to catch any drips.

Piece they used on the back. It actually fit perfect. It has many more screws in it than it did.

You must be registered for see images attach

Extra bits in the valley.

You must be registered for see images attach

I put blocks tight up on either side. It's not going to slide that direction. Couldn't go far before it hit the main caps as it was anyway. Then I put the cardboard bits over it and then wrapped some tie wire around it. Those are basically there to keep the pallet tied to the engine. The engine weighs so much more than the pallet, unless it rolls completely over, they are useless anyway.

You must be registered for see images attach

It passes the shake test and with so much block sitting flat on the risers, short of the truck rolling over or the fork lift driver dropping it, it will never move.

I picked up a cheap plastic strapping kit from Amazon that actually works pretty darn good. That's what I tied the top box on with.

You must be registered for see images attach

And there you have it. Total time 2 hrs. 2 2x6x8' (didn't use most of the second one) and the crap they sent me and Bob's yer uncle. Hopefully it gets there in one piece.

In other news, got yet another box of bolts, and a set of mirrors ( thank you @IDIoit ). Got the giant bolt to make the plug for the CDr hole. It's 1 1/8". Shortest I could get was 2" so it needs cut down and an oring relief turned into it.

Got my turbo oil feed and drain kits. Need to get the exhaust blasted and coated with something. Still trying to decide what. Then I'll wrap the pipes with something.

Think I'll try to get the pump ordered this week. That's a good belated Father's Day gift right???

Anyway. Stay tuned. We are getting there slowly but surely.

 

[DaveBen]

That is a very good job! I wish my stuff would come packaged like that.

 

[laserjock]

I try.

 

[laserjock]

Off she goes.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[laserjock]

I started sorting through the AN fittings I've accumulated. Good news is I think I have enough stuff to get the job done. I am going to have to reclock the turbo.

You must be registered for see images attach

Basically, the water port is where the oil drain needs to be. That shouldn't be a problem I don't think. I've never taken the hot side loose but looks like 4 bolts.

I may rethink my water plumbing. I didn't realize there were so many water ports. I can pretty easily use one of the block ports to feed the turbo. I'll just plug that hole in the manifold I made if I do. I can still return it to the manifold and the manifold is still feeding the coolant filter.

So I need to get the exhaust dealt with so I can get the turbo stuff finalized.

Made the plug for the CDr but I need to tweak it. I'll post a pic when I do.

 

[laserjock]

Here's the CDr plug.

You must be registered for see images attach

It's a stainless steel 1 1/8 UNC bolt. I would have loved to found something in aluminum. I even considered plastic. Here it is installed.

You must be registered for see images attach

Sorry it's a little fuzzy.

 

[laserjock]

Alrighty. Got a few things taken care of tonight. I got the water necks re-plated.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is the inlet neck. Notice the tach sensor is also installed.

I think I'm going to take my turbo water from the back driver head port.

You must be registered for see images attach

So I think this is actually a great place to pull the water from because it should actually be a little cooler than the water from the heater hose port if I read my diagram right.

You must be registered for see images attach

This is a 6.9 but I think it's the same on a 7.3. It's the same path that the oil cooler draws from. Going from that port should give me a short straight shot to the turbo. Then I'll return the water to the filter head block I made. It will simplify the hose routing.

I need some retainer clips to hold the little ball in the thermostat housing and it can go on. That's it for tonight.

 

[79jasper]

Which HG'S did you use?
I thought on the 7.3, those ports were blocked off. Maybe I miss understood.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[laserjock]

Well crap. I don't know but I'm sure promar didn't open the passages. Surely that part of the head isn't dry right? Even if the port from the is closed aren't the water jackets in the head connected? It might even be good to pull water from there and get some circulation back there.

Gary @icanfixall will that plug be dry or will there be coolant there even if the passage in the block is still plugged?

Edit:

I think it's fine. If you look close at the picture, the return is common.

 

[laserjock]

Ever feel like Johnny Cash?
https://youtu.be/060A15ELz00


Turbo adapter done I think.

You must be registered for see images attach

Plating bath seems to be behaving a lot better. I refreshed it with some fresh chemical and we seem to be a lot happier.

I welded some reinforcement bits top and bottom to give it some extra strength. It's not beautiful because I didn't spend hours grinding on it but I think it will be just dandy. Besides, I'll probably wrap it anyway.

I got the other valve cover done. I'm not super happy with it but I have another set and if I get the plating wired, I'll do them and swap them out.

You must be registered for see images attach

Down pipe is in the blast cabinet. I'll blast it down to the last weld joint and then the rest should be fine.

I ordered some header wrap for it and the up pipe. It and the manifolds are next through the blast cabinet. I think with things behaving better I'll hit a couple more parts one more time and see how we do. It would make my life a lot easier if it works right.

Ordered what I hope will be the last box of bolts. (Yeah right). I also broke down and ordered the hood hoist do-dad. Price dropped. I looked at things and it just didn't make sense to spend time making something when I would have had that much money in the steel. Yeah, my idea was more versatile but for now, screw it. No more side projects. This has got to get done.

 

[subway]

One step at a time, looking great. The paint on my oil pan is pealing. Almost making me wish I would have held off longer to really grind down the old paint and make it nicer. I think my wife would hurt me though missing the camping season.

The work you are putting into this is really showing!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[laserjock]

So I've spent a lot of time pondering IC piping size specifically. Several guys here have said 2.25 is fine. It always seemed a little small to me. So I went searching for some math and this is the first time I've found an explanation. I'm working on cross checking the math but here is what I pulled from a post over on www.dsmtuners.com (l'd give a link but the damn page keeps crashing IE).

*.4 Mach is the point at which air becomes turbulent and losses in efficiency start to occur exponentially. The key is to stay under that speed. You want to use the smallest piping possible that still flows enough to meet your needs. Larger than necessary piping increases lag time with no measurable gain

The velocities are in miles per hour and mach, and the flow rates are in cfm. Measurements for the piping are in inches.


2" piping
1.57 x 2 = 3.14 sq in
300 cfm = 156 mph = 0.20 mach
400 cfm = 208 mph = 0.27 mach
500 cfm = 261 mph = 0.34 mach
<FONT COLOR="blue">585 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach</FONT>


2.25" piping
3.9740625 sq in = 1.98703125 x 2
300 cfm = 123 mph = 0.16 mach
400 cfm = 164 mph = 0.21 mach
500 cfm = 205 mph = 0.26 mach
600 cfm = 247 mph = 0.32 mach
700 cfm = 288 mph = 0.37 mach
<FONT COLOR="blue">740 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach</FONT>


2.5" piping
4.90625 sq in = 2.453125 x 2
300 cfm = 100 mph = 0.13 mach
400 cfm = 133 mph = 0.17 mach
500 cfm = 166 mph = 0.21 mach
600 cfm = 200 mph = 0.26 mach
700 cfm = 233 mph = 0.30 mach
800 cfm = 266 mph = 0.34 mach
900 cfm = 300 mph = 0.39 mach
<FONT COLOR="blue">913 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach</FONT>


2.75" piping
5.9365625 sq in = 2.96828125 x 2
300 cfm = 82 mph = 0.10 mach
400 cfm = 110 mph = 0.14 mach
500 cfm = 137 mph = 0.17 mach
600 cfm = 165 mph = 0.21 mach
700 cfm = 192 mph = 0.25 mach
800 cfm = 220 mph = 0.28 mach
900 cfm = 248 mph = 0.32 mach
1000 cfm = 275 mph = 0.36 mach
<FONT COLOR="blue">1100 cfm max = 303 mph = 0.40 mach</FONT>


3.0" piping
7.065 sq in = 3.5325 x 2
300 cfm = 69 mph = 0.09 mach
400 cfm = 92 mph = 0.12 mach
500 cfm = 115 mph = 0.15 mach
600 cfm = 138 mph = 0.18 mach
700 cfm = 162 mph = 0.21 mach
800 cfm = 185 mph = 0.24 mach
900 cfm = 208 mph = 0.27 mach
1000 cfm = 231 mph = 0.30 mach
1100 cfm = 254 cfm = 0.33 mach
1200 cfm = 277 mph = 0.36 mach
<FONT COLOR="blue">1300 cfm max= 301 mph = 0.39 mach</FONT>


In order to convert from Lb/Min to CFM for the equation above, you take the flow rate in Lb/Min for your turbo (generally an educated guess based on the pressure ratio and power created) and multiply it by 14.27. That will yield the CFM flow for your setup.

For Example:
T3/T04e 57trim .63ar @ 21psi makes 452 whp
This turbo is known to have a 50lb/min compressor wheel which will make ~500bhp. Since we're using whp above, we can assume this turbo is pretty close to its max of 50lb/min.

Now to convert that to CFM, you take 50lb/min x 14.27 = 713.5 CFM. When you refer to the table above, you can see that we're starting to max 2.25" piping, but we're still in the "good" range for 2.5"

but it also depends on how smooth the piping is inside... and all the bends. this i would say is " perfect piping conditions" and if you would pick a number to upsize your piping at it would be when you hit about the .3 maximum .35 mach region.

Okay, assuming this is all correct, I now have some basis for sizing the pipes. Based on Heath's data it looks like we are probably going to be living in the 15-20 psi range most of the time. That equates to a pressure ratio of between like 2 and 2.3. If we look at the displacement, and set an upper bound of 3600 RPM gives a max of 462.5 CFM or 31.9 lb/ min using a generic 0.069 lb/ cu ft. Looking at my turbo, which is a Garrett GT3788R, that would seem to be a pretty decent spot on the compressor map.

So if I believe the above data, it looks like in fact 2.25" piping would be okay with some overhead. That does not take into account the bends and so forth though. So it seems it will either be 2.5" or 2.25". 3" would seem to be a lot of overkill. Given there will be about 6 90 degree turns in this system (at least that's how I have it in my head now) and the IC, I think I will ere on the side of caution and go with 2.5 inch.