Pre-Cup Needed

[19887.3IDI]

Well I figured I would do a little update.

I checked compression and #7 was at 490, #1 was at 440 and the rest were at 480. I'm thinking they are a little lower do to the head gasket change but I'm not for sure. I pulled off Fel-Pro hg's and put on victor reinz hg's. I don't think the shaking is compression related though.

I checked cam lift and they are pretty even and at spec.

I have been driving it and put about 400 miles on it since I had the heads off. I have started noticed that there seems to be a rod or wrist pin knock somewhere around #1. I have loosened the injection lines one by one and it didn't effect the knock so I don't think its an injector. It didn't have a knock when I first ran it and seems to be getting worse.

My guess is the rod that is knocking is the heavy one being throne around and beating up the bearing.

I plan on pulling the engine in a couple weeks and tarring it down to balance it and check clearance's and more than likely through in a new set of bearings. I am debating on re-ringing too because I put some oil down #1 and it increased its compression by 20psi. I am thinking that jasper put the rings for #1 on upside down because when I had the heads off I saw oil spots where the rings were sitting when I moved the piston down. #1 was the only one that did that.

I have a 700 mile trip planed this summer and I would like to get this truck fixed so it can haul my toys and at this point I don't trust it to go that far.

If anyone would like pictures while I'm in there let me know and ill do my best to get them.

 

[icanfixall]

Well from what you have posted about the engine from Jaspers.. I think this tells lots about how the may rebuild engines. Others have had issues with them too so your not alone in this. Now finding the reasons is the tuff item. The knock you hear might be a piston slap noise too. Its really hard to explain the sound differences in a bearing knock and a piston slap knock sound. Rings going on upside down is a possible items too. I would be sure to check the bore size on that cylinder too. See what the running clearance is on the piston to bore size.

 

[19887.3IDI]

Maybe Jasper should be added to The Oilburners hall of shame? Its kind of crummy to pay 5 grand for an engine and then have to rerebuild it. I understand that I could have warranted it but I probably would have ended up with some other problem with it.

I took a quick look at the pistons when I had the heads of and they all had play in the cylinders. The play did seem the same on all the cylinders but I didn't measure any thing though. I will definitely check that too.

 

[icanfixall]

The running clearance between the cylinders and any piston is 0.0055 to 0.0085. I'm thinking they run on the near max dimension so nothing gets tight when breaking in. It makes for a louder engine from open tolerances but it wont stick a piston either. Was the bore oversized or a sleeved block.

 

[19887.3IDI]

The pistons and block are stamped .040 and it doesn't look like it is sleeved but I couldn't see the bottom of the cylinder and all the metal looked the same at the top.

 

[icanfixall]

There is no reason to think a sleeved block would be bored 40 over. That would not make good sence to do that. So an educated guess based on what your telling me is this block was bored out 40 over.. Not good but not bad either. Its just not something thats done very often that far.

 

[Diesile]

Wild guess here.... I had a factory n/a flywheel on a factory turbo engine, shook like crazy. Wonder if the opposite would do the same. Just checking as it seems that you have looked at many other options.

 

[19887.3IDI]

Wild guess here.... I had a factory n/a flywheel on a factory turbo engine, shook like crazy. Wonder if the opposite would do the same. Just checking as it seems that you have looked at many other options.

I did take a look at that and with the engine running I cant see any wobble in it but that is not saying its out of balance. I did reuse the flywheel/flex plate contraption from the old engine and it didn't shake anywhere near as bad as this engine. I am going to try to have the flywheel/flex plate balanced with the crank so we will see.

 

[19887.3IDI]

There is no reason to think a sleeved block would be bored 40 over. That would not make good sence to do that. So an educated guess based on what your telling me is this block was bored out 40 over.. Not good but not bad either. Its just not something thats done very often that far.

When I first saw the .040 stampings it kind of scared me but then I remembered that I heard others had problems with dropping sleeves in jasper engines and I figured it would be better to have it bored 40 over than sleeved to standard. Now all I have to worry about is cavitation which I think I have covered with the Fleet Charge coolant I put in.

 

[icanfixall]

The only true balancing is to balance AL the parts that rotates. This includes the crank, rods complete with bearing and pin and retainers, Complete piston, flexplate and damper. What it does not balance is the main bearings. they do not rotate... Hopefully... Just think about anything that spins needs balancing.

 

[19887.3IDI]

Yea there's a lot to it. I am also going to check the cam gear to see if it has those two threaded holes and if it does its going in the scrap pile and I'll see if I can find a good one. The only thing I'm worried about is how far the pistons are off because I have heard you don't want to remove to much weight from them.

 

[icanfixall]

Getting the pistons to weigh the same amount in grams is fine. Taking off too much is kind of a silly idea. Where did you hear about this idea. First off all the pistons get weighed with the rings and pin and retainers. Then you see what is the heavy and what is the lightest piston. Then try to make all of the pistons weigh the same amount in grams. I did my own and got them to between 1/4 and 1/3 gram of being the exact same weight. Really no reason for going that small but I was able to do that so I did. It pays off when the engine runs and you can't feel it running.You just hear it running.

 

[19887.3IDI]

I thought I read it in a forum somewhere but maybe I misunderstood it. I am definitely going to take my time to make sure everything is as close in weigh as I can get it since I cant stand it shaking the way it is. I cant wait until the day that it runs so smooth that I cant feel it running.

 

[19887.3IDI]

Update

I tore the engine down and took the piston/rod assembly's, crank, balancer, and flywheel in to be balanced and one pistons were out 7 grams, the rods were out 10 grams, and the crank was out 7 grams on the front 12 grams on the rear. Everything is within 1 gram now but it wasn't far enough out to be my problem though.

So it is either a valve or the injection pump. I am pretty sure its not an injector because I can swap them out with different ones or jump them from one cylinder to the other and it makes no difference.

The engine is out of the truck now and I started it up to make sure it didn't have anything to do with the transmission and it doesn't it still shakes.

I think it might be an exhaust valve because I can here a slight pop sound now that the exhaust isn't hooked up but the valves didn't have hardly any play in them and the seats looked good. It must not take much valve play before it starts chuffing.