Please help out the Rookie!!

Defrocked

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:yell::yell:Need some help on my rig guys. Having hard starts with my 89 7.3 n/a if it sits for a few days.(usually Mondays) Wondering if there are any IDI gurus in So Cal area that can lend a hand, and make a little cash:sly Im thinking its getting air in the fuel system.I live in San Fernando but can drive around for some help. Any help is REALLY appreciated!!
 

Defrocked

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^^^^ none noticeable really, used some smelling sauce once or twice to start her.
Really annoying since I get home and its dark as hell outside:(
 

Defrocked

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Glow plugs perhaps??
Lots of possibilities I know.... Hard to find an IDI mechanic and a good one!!
 

OLDBULL8

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How long does your wait to start lite (WTS) stay on? Around 40* should be on for about 8-10 seconds, if only on about 2 seconds, you need new GP's. You more than likely have air intrusion tho.

If you need new GP's, get only Motorcraft/Beru. Takes a 10mm deep socket to change them.
 

chris142

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Are you sure there's no dirt sticking to the return caps? I'm new to these trucks too. I'm in hesperia
 

fordf350man

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there might not be fuel leaking out, could just be air getting into the system, for myself doing a return line kit solved the issue,
 

icanfixall

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Welcome to the forum where help is here 24 by 7. You do have fuel leaking back out of the pump causing hard starts. Finding it can be tuff. Try this simple method. See the brass cap on the lift pump to fuel filter inlet. That cap has a rubber seal in it called an olive. They dry up and cause air to be sucked into the fuel system. Try tightening up the cap a little bit. If the cap is not able to turn much at all its already dry and needs replacement. Easy job most of the time. Just a dental pick to get it out of the cap nut or soak it overnite in brake fluid to soften it. Thats a 3/8 line so the olive is also a 3/8 size. Now liik at the filter feed line to the injection pump. That line has the olive in BOTH ENDS of it. That line is 5/16. Tighten those 2 nuts. If they are already tight please replace them. Be sure to push the rubber olive back far enough on the line to get the line deep enough in the female fitting to support it. then tighten up the nut to a "feel" but not to the end of the threaded nut. You probably wont be able to ruin the nut by over tightening it using the correct sine line nut wrench. Another possible leak area in under the injection pump. Sometimes the seals in the pump fail and fuel leaks out of a weep hole near the nuts that holds the pump to the aluminum housing. Also the drivers side of the injection pump has a lever that pushes on a plunger. that seal leaks sometimes and fuel will drain out of the pump causing long cranking and hard starts. If the injection pump has over 125,000 miles is usually felt it shot and needs replacement. Don't just buy the cheapest ebay pump either. We can advise where to get the best deal on injecters. Return line kits and injection pumps. Its really sad when a new member comes here asking for help after an ebay parts seller has ripped them off. Read the Hall Of Shame forum above for the rippoff sellers and avoid them..
 

Knuckledragger

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Welcome to the OB forums!

Like Gary said, check all of the olive joints and weep holes. Also check the return lines. a visual inspection will tell you if they are leaking an need the O-rings replaced. DO NOT wiggle them, that may cause a leak you did not previously have. If you have never changed glow plugs and do not know the age of the current set, they might need to be changed. That is a 2 hour (or less) job, taking care to blow out any loose dirt first. The GP hex is actually 3/8 inch, but 10mm will work. A 1/4 drive, 6 point deep socket is just the ticket.

PM me if you want to talk, I'm close by.
 
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Defrocked

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Wow, thanks for all the support guys!!I think I've read up on this truck so much I feel like I should know something by now;Sweet Knuckledragger I will pm so we can talk after the holiday, thanks a lot.

Also in the meantime how long can I have my heater plugged in for to help on the start and do I need to disconnect before starting?My truck looks awesome and I want it to run awesome:D
 

icanfixall

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The heater can be plugged in as long as you feel its needed. You do not need to unplug it before a start but.. Its a good safety item to unplug it before a start. That way you wont drive of with it plugged in.:sly Knuckledragger is very well versed on these trucks and engines and he is a nice guy too. Your in good hands there.
 

Defrocked

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So upon further review I see no evidence of a fuel leak at injectors but valve covers do have a good amount of oil dust combo_Once warm truck starts super fast,steady idle at about 700-750 rpm's.Not to mention the rough tranny shifts when cold also.
 

Knuckledragger

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Anyone in the LA area want to meet up and help diagnose Defrocked's truck is welcome to stop by my shop Saturday morning 9 am. PM me early or look up MRH Mold Company in Monrovia. Easy to find.

Bring olives if you have any.
 
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