Parts is NOT just parts

[learner]

I've been officially notified by a local shop that checked the compression on my 87 6.9 that my engine is "TOAST." Well, no surprises there, so on with the solution.... a COMPLETE rebuild. I have found 2 reputable Ford diesel experts, but have yet to connect in person. One is a professional auto/marine engine machinist. The other is a fanatic like us.
My NEXT research project is figuring out just which parts I SHOULD buy, which I should AVOID (ya'al can really help here!) there are always CHEAP products out there, and I know NOTHING yet! I'm experienced enough to know that the precise list will depend on the condition of the old engine. IF it's worn beyond any MAX DIM (dimensions) I'll obviously look for a crate engine or a rebuildable core ( actually while perusing the wrecking yards nearby, I was informed that a good core could be had for a mere $350-375! certainly worth the thought if you're going to do most of your own work.)
What I really need from this site is help with the little, secret sources for particularly high-reliability parts. I want your assistance in staying OUT of the big expensive foolish mistake category. After all, I want this job to last another 300K miles. I EXPECT to spend around $2-3 thousand in parts alone. ( willing to go to $5k if nescessary ) Extra for exteriors like fuel system and glow plug type stuff. Then the machine work....
Well, I'm off to the INET to start my homework. Any and all advice (AND stories to go with them) are appreciated.

 

[Greg5OH]

i may get flack, but IMO its crazy to drop that kind of money into an IDI. 2k on turbo system sure..as a good turbo is close to 1k alone and can be reused on other engines..but I wouldnt spend that kind of money on machine work etc..
that being said:

head studs,
oil cooler reseal, (try to find one from a 94 turbo if you can, higher core density)
OEM bearings
typ 4 cam or R&D cam
make sure heads arent cracked, buy a whole spare engine for 100-200$ to get heads if necessary, sell the rest
can use PSD rod bearings for more surface area with no modifications needed
Turbo system of your choice
Conestoga or R&D pump.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

3200 for a promar reman. Free shipping to a business.... and they will install cam and studs if supplied.

 

[TahoeTom]

If you are in Northern Nevada I found a shop in Reno to do my machine work(Hewes Performance Machine) He rebuilt IDI's back in the day when they were in ambulances. '87 6.9 should be a good basis for a build though the head bolts are 7/16" rather than 1/2" on 7.3 blocks. I used Mahle pistons (OEM manufacturer) and Clevite 77 bearings. Russ (typ4 on here) is a source for injectors and I got a set of stainless valves from him. He also sells a reground "torque"cam that I used. Motorcraft only for thermostat and glow plugs, maybe water pump, though I am on my third one in 25K miles. OEM for oil cooler O-rings. The stock oil pump is probably better than aftermarket. It does add up to some $ to rebuild one of these but I am stubborn that way.

 

[learner]

To Tahoe Tom.. FYI Coincidentally, I live quite close by in Gold Hill Nevada.
( near Virginia City) and often work in the Tahoe neighborhood. I'd like to meet you in person to see the result of your work and learn the details of the process you used. I'll send my phone # (and address if you'ld prefer to come to my place) via a private msg. as soon as I figure out how. Tanks tuns!

 

[TahoeTom]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?55525-More-6-9-rebuild-progress&highlight=
Here is a link to the build thread that I followed. Thanks to Heath Sutton for documenting his build. Unfortunately the pictures were lost due to an issue with a photo storing site. I bought an IDI about 20 years ago and a Haynes repair manual. I had no clue what I would do if it left me stranded, but it never did. With the Haynes manual I managed a head gasket replacement and even removed and replaced the oil pan with the engine in frame. The engine from that original truck is in my current truck after a rebuild. I learned what I know regarding a rebuild thanks to the folks on this site. I am sure I have more invested in the engine than the truck is worth, but it is not for sale.

Forgot to mention in the first post: tell the machine shop to leave the freeze plugs in the block. They are not easy to replace and require a special tool to install. The shop I used had no problem leaving them in place. This is an example of an important thing I learned on this site. Several members here have had incorrect freeze plugs let go.

I get down to Carson City fairly often and like to check out Pick and Pull to see what they have, pretty close to your neck of the woods.