Oiltofuel.com

[The FNG]

http://oiltofuel.com/compact-black-diesel-processor.html

What do you think? I'm having issues finding any reviews on it. There's probably a reason. I would love to get into WMO since I have tons of oil available to me. The only issue is upfront costs to get the system and this is about my current limit. I have been reading about centrifuge styles and know that is the best, but this one is probably my next best bet: http://pabiodieselsupply.com/shop/wvo-centrifuge-waste-oil-centrifuge-filtration-unit-open-drum/ . Can I build one for $200 myself? Does anyone have a link to WMO for dummies 101? Please help a newb out.

Edit: I guess if I can filter down to 1 micron, what would be the difference between filter media and centrifuge?

 

[leswhitt]

I'd recommend going with the traditional centrifuge, there's enough of us on here running them that you'll have a great knowledge base to draw from. As for helping a newb out, I'd recommend reading through the threads as different folks setups have been discussed in-depth. If you have any specific questions after that, fire away!

As for the diff between filter and centrifuge, there aren't any wearable items (no worries about plugging up or bursting) on the centrifuge and the consensus is that it'll also get your oil cleaner than a filter will.

 

[freebird01]

that kit is nothing more then a 12 fuel pump and a house water filter w/ a bucket...

 

[Brad S.]

That site has lot of good stuff, almost to much for me to read through right now, but thanks.
I think your right you could build a system for less money.
You've got a pretty good source right here for building a wmo setup.
Given the right setup a CF will "filter" out more particles then a average filter.
(No offense to those of you using only filters)
I think even below the 1 micron level.
Scan through the past threads, lot of good experiences being posted on how to proceed.

 

[Josh Carmack]

Scavenge parts. The one most expensive thing I purchased was a 55GPH bypass centrifuge. I have 138.00 in the fuge, 97.00 in filters 100.00 in fittings, and 100.00 in valves that includes hose and the fittings and valves for my collection super sucker and tote on a trailer. NOW keep in mind that I had tons of fitting I picked up at a yard sell that probably saved me another 100.00 in fittings. Fittings are not cheap as they used to be. The pump was pulled from a truck bound for the scrap yard, and the drive motor was pulled from an old washer I had replaced with one of those new fangled front loaders. I didn't need that many filters to get started, but I have later plans for them. Hoses I had lieing around and tanks as well, but it paid for it self the third fillup now it's all savings.

 

[subway]

Building a fuge setup vs a filter setup in the overall scheme is not that much more expensive. The fittings are killer, you can look at every fitting you need and say $5 lol. You still want a tank, pump and lines for both a filter and fuge setup. Yes the fuge is a little more up front but saves in the longer run with no filters to buy and replace. It also filters down to .5 Micron in most cases consistently where you cannot get that good with any regular filters. At least not any you want to pay for.

 

[The FNG]

ok thanks for the replies. I have done some more research and decided to invest in the pa biodiesel premade kit. A little background on what my supply looks like: 132 Siemens 2.3MW wind turbines with a combination of hydraulic and gear oils (all synthetic) in 500 gallon totes. We had more totes than I could count after the last oil change. I will have to buy at $0.50 /gal, but that is chump change if all works out. The oil is in constant use in the turbine, but is consistently filtered to 1 micron and actually comes out of the turbine cleaner than when it goes in. So, long story short, the oil is still a light amber/ clear when removed from service. Do I really need a centrifuge?