Oil Cooler

[1990350idi]

I am getting ready to replace the leaky gasket on my oil cooler tomorrow. Any suggestions or tips? It doesnt look like it will be an easy task. I think i have seen something about it on here before but cant find it to save my life.

 

[leftcoastjeff]

this job needs to be a tech article

try this thread, the job is possible, if you can roll yourself up and.........
you'll see.
Good luck!


http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33474&highlight=cooler


LCjeff

 

[jonathan]

i have they are a pita my was you might wont to replace the o rings also while you are there

 

[tjb]

I just got done with mine and it really isnt that bad. What worked for me was to remove drivers side tire and the rubber instert. I was able to use long extensions and wobble with socket and remove the bolts on front header then disconnected my front drive shaft from diff and moved it over then was able to get to rear header bolts from underneath 4 bolts on each side. I removed the drivers side motor mount bolts then lifted engine about 3 inches using floor jack and block of wood and was able to remove the cooler. Oh and make sure to drain the oil and coolant and when pulling cooler off it will have some coolant that will try to splash out so make sure your not laying underneath. I was lucky and my cooler came out with no problems and it was not difficult to remove the headers off bundle. I cleaned it up and used petroleum jelly on new o-rings and was able to press back together by hand. reinstalled into truck with new gaskets I did not use sealant per this site. then put everything else back together and filled back up with coolant and oil. Have had truck running for short while now with no problems, (other than glow plugs and thats a whole other story.)

 

[GREASE FIRE]

I just got done with mine and it really isnt that bad. What worked for me was to remove drivers side tire and the rubber instert. I was able to use long extensions and wobble with socket and remove the bolts on front header then disconnected my front drive shaft from diff and moved it over then was able to get to rear header bolts from underneath 4 bolts on each side. I removed the drivers side motor mount bolts then lifted engine about 3 inches using floor jack and block of wood and was able to remove the cooler. Oh and make sure to drain the oil and coolant and when pulling cooler off it will have some coolant that will try to splash out so make sure your not laying underneath. I was lucky and my cooler came out with no problems and it was not difficult to remove the headers off bundle. I cleaned it up and used petroleum jelly on new o-rings and was able to press back together by hand. reinstalled into truck with new gaskets I did not use sealant per this site. then put everything else back together and filled back up with coolant and oil. Have had truck running for short while now with no problems, (other than glow plugs and thats a whole other story.)

thanks for the explanation. I might have to do mine soon and was wondering about the way you jack up the engine. First, do you ONLY have to remove the mount bolts on the side of the oil cooler? Second, what part of the motor did you press up on with the jack?

thanks,
Paul

 

[tjb]

thanks for the explanation. I might have to do mine soon and was wondering about the way you jack up the engine. First, do you ONLY have to remove the mount bolts on the side of the oil cooler? Second, what part of the motor did you press up on with the jack?

thanks,
Paul

I removed the motor mount bolts on oil cooler side only and put the block under the oil pan and was able to raise that side about 3 inches. What worked for me may not work for someone else, as you can see with other posts some have got to it from the top or say you have to remove more to do it from the bottom, but I am the type of person that doesnt follow directions and usually just get in there and figure out the easiest way even if it means screwing something up to figure it out, so I guess what I am saying is it might be wiser to listen to one of the more experienced guys on here and do it the right way. (my way did work tho and it wasnt that hard and it still doesnt leak or anything;p)

 

[87crewdually]

It's a piece of cake from side and underneath.
Remove oil filter
Drain coolant down past the cooler
Using, IIRC, 5/8 wrench unbolt the 2 motor mount bolts
From the wheel well with long extension unbolt cooler ends
Jack under the strongest part of the oilpan utilizing a block of wood and jack
As the engine comes up it will also tilt to the right making an opening to get the cooler out from the bottom towards the rear.

Get the o-rings from Ford or International. Gaskets you can get from anywhere. If you go to International make sure you tell them it's in a ford truck because international used different ends for other vehicles.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[gonecrazyi]

Depending on how big and/or flexible you are, it is possible to replace the gaskets without jacking up the motor or unbolting the manifold.

I jacked the front of the truck up 2 inches higher so I could easily lean over the tire. I unbolted the rear header and used a piece of wood and a crow bar to pull the tube and rear header away from the front header.

The longest part of the job was sanding all the crap off of the mating surfaces.

I put towels on the crossmember to keep the orings out of the dirt and grime. A piece of wood was then used to get the crow bar enough leverage to push everthing back together.
I think that I started at 12 and finished around 4ish. I think the second time around it would be much faster.


Also, ford had the orings for 32 dollars.

 

[tjb]

Depending on how big and/or flexible you are, it is possible to replace the gaskets without jacking up the motor or unbolting the manifold.

I jacked the front of the truck up 2 inches higher so I could easily lean over the tire. I unbolted the rear header and used a piece of wood and a crow bar to pull the tube and rear header away from the front header.

The longest part of the job was sanding all the crap off of the mating surfaces.

I put towels on the crossmember to keep the orings out of the dirt and grime. A piece of wood was then used to get the crow bar enough leverage to push everthing back together.
I think that I started at 12 and finished around 4ish. I think the second time around it would be much faster.


Also, ford had the orings for 32 dollars.

ya you can leave motor mount bolts alone if you are taking apart and putting back together the headers from bundle while still under truck. I lifted engine so I could pull the whole thing out and then work on it on a work bench a little easier I think.