Not your Average Dana 60 Swap

asmith

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Man this is great!! something i have been thinking about for a long time. Two questions, do you mind sharing how much the axles cost you? This one is off topic, but how hard was it to convert your truck from gas to IDI? Do you have a thread on it?

One last thing your pictures in the section about the brakes are not showing up. everything else works great.
 

laserjock

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Watching carefully. If I ever loose my mind and do up a crew cab, I can see myself maybe doing this. Great thread man.

And that's a great idea on the power steering. With the hydroboost I had been wondering about cooling capacity. If nothing else it should increase the fluid capacity a bit.
 
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bike-maker

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As far as the fluid capacity in the power steering system.

It's probably about the same; if anything there is now less capacity. The cooling loop on the bottom of the radiator is just a tube run inside the bottom tank, and as near as I can tell, it's just a straight shot from one side of the radiator to the other. The stock cooling loop, with all of it's twists and bands, would effectively be a little longer.
 

bike-maker

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Been a busy weekend...

Fixed the pics.

Got a chance to take care of a few little things was all - new fuel filter, swapped the speedo gear to the 3.55 version, cleaned up / painted the spare tire carrier.

Bled the brakes again. Not sure if there was still air in the system, or I'm just not used to the feel of them yet. With the rear brakes being converted to disc, they take more fluid capacity, so there should be more brake pedal travel to apply the brakes the same as before. They work awesome - silky smooth. Haven't had a chance to try it since I re-bled.

As for the original swap to diesel:
Got the truck with 460/C6. Picked up a donor truck - 89 F250 ECLB that had a dash fire. Ended up using the 89's engine, trans, front dana 50 TTB, Sterling Rear (wanted the 4.10 gears), fuel tanks, steering column, and a bunch of other pieces.

If you have a complete donor truck, it's not bad from a technical stand point, just labor intensive. It took about 3 weeks of every available moment to get it done. Didn't have any help, and was under a time crunch.

Pne of the few pics I have from it:

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My neighbors were not impressed...
 

bike-maker

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As much as I hate to do it, just because I don't really want to know, here's a rough estimate of what it cost me:

08 Axles $600
10 Axle $300
Rear springs, blocks, shock mounts, misc. parts $50
Coil springs $100
Control arms, track bar mount, shocks $100
Spicer flange yoke $45
Everything to rebuild the front axle ~ $500
Synthetic 75w-140 gear oil $100
18" Lariat wheels with worn out 35's $100

That's off of the top of my head, and when you add in shop supplies, paint, big ass grade 8 bolts, brake lines, Hello Kitty band-aids, etc., I figure I've probably got about $2500 into it.

I can recoup some of that by selling off the massive pile of parts I have left over, but that won't add up to very much.

And I still need to buy a set of tires.....
 

asmith

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As much as I hate to do it, just because I don't really want to know, here's a rough estimate of what it cost me:

08 Axles $600
10 Axle $300
Rear springs, blocks, shock mounts, misc. parts $50
Coil springs $100
Control arms, track bar mount, shocks $100
Spicer flange yoke $45
Everything to rebuild the front axle ~ $500
Synthetic 75w-140 gear oil $100
18" Lariat wheels with worn out 35's $100

That's off of the top of my head, and when you add in shop supplies, paint, big ass grade 8 bolts, brake lines, Hello Kitty band-aids, etc., I figure I've probably got about $2500 into it.

I can recoup some of that by selling off the massive pile of parts I have left over, but that won't add up to very much.

And I still need to buy a set of tires.....

That is really not that bad. You scored on those axles. You can hardly find the obs dana 60s for under a $1000 just for the front.
 

marmot

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Man you killed it on those axles 600 bucks for the set of 08 axles? I can't touch front dana 60's for any less than 1000$ here regardless of the vintage. This spring we are driving to SC again so I am making room for a set of axles. I see wrecked sd f350's in the midwest fof less than the 1800$ I'd spend on a set of axles here. Then I could scrap the rest of the truck$$$ I bet my wife will love that plan:rotflmao
 

bike-maker

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I've had really good luck finding stuff on Craig's list. I'm within an hour of all the major cities in Oregon. Most of my best scores come from adds with misspelled words or incomplete info. For example, my $100 wheels/tires (worth probably 3X that) were listed as "Super Dutie Wheels" with no further description, just a pic.

Adjusted the toe in this morning and took her for a spin. Toe in was measured at 0, adjusted to 1/8". Took away the slight wander it had.

The brakes did have a touch of air left in them, they're just a hair more solid feeling now. It feels like when you first apply the brakes, they come in really light and smooth almost feels like they are not going to work as well as the old brakes. But as you apply more pressure on the pedal, they really start to slow the truck down.
So it takes more pedal travel to get them to engage and just scrub a little speed off, but less travel between that and locking up all four corners.

I just need to get used to the brakes. They work exceptionally well, just feel different.

And the ride is definitely different also. The rear rides better with the Super Duty springs, but not a major improvement. I just need about 500 pounds of junk in the bed like I usually have...
The front is totally different. The front end just feels loose, but not in a bad way. Still rides like a truck, but without all the harshness of the old suspension. Used to be able to feel every little crack and bump, now you only notice the bigger hits.

The family rig is a Acura MDX. One of those little foo-foo sport utility vehicles with a full frame, coil springs all around, AWD, etc. It has a nice firm (sporty?) ride. Not harsh, just firm. The truck now rides almost as good as the Acura. With some weight in the bed, I think it may be a wash.

The best test was the speed bumps in my neighborhood. They're the kind that are about 6" tall, 3 foot wide mounds, that no one bothers to slow down for. Except for me before the axle swap. I used to hit them at 10mph and it would just about knock my teeth out. Now I can hit them at 30 and it's not at all violent like it was before.

The tighter turn radius is absolutely awesome. Did'nt seem that significant at first, but after rolling through some of the normal parking lots, I have been able to just pull out of many spots where I previously would have been going back and forth a few times, hopping the curb, mowing down foliage, etc. Far fewer "Austin Powers" turn arounds.
 

bike-maker

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And now the rear axle. This one was pretty straight forward.

Used 99-04 superduty B code leaf springs, and the superduty 4" blocks that came with them. Ne need for the overloads, as I have airbags instead, but you supposedly would want to use the OBS overloads.

And FYI, in 2008, they changed the rear shock arrangement, and made the leaf springs considerably longer, so those springs won't work.

To make the 99-04 super duty springs fit, I had to trim a little off of the shackle, and open up the bolt holes for the spring eye to 5/8".
Option 2: just buy a set of replacement shackles from a Super Duty (the route I should have gone since the bushings in the shackle were pretty toasted). They should bolt right in.

The older Sterling 10.25" sway bar (originally out of a 94 F250) bolts right in.

The 99-04 shock mounts clamp right to the axle tubes, and were located and welded in place - this was the only welding actually required in the whole axle swap, front and rear.

Bolted the 05-07 shocks in place.

Super Duty brake line is a 7/16" inverted flare. Stock hard line in the truck was 3/8"-24. Bought a brass adapter at the local parts store and bolted the brake lines together.

And the last snag in my project: the driveshaft. My truck originally had a Dana61, then I swapped in a 89 short pinion, then melted the short pinion down and installed a 94 long pinion Sterling 10.25". So combined with my Spicer 1350 flange yoke, the drive shaft should bolt right in...

The 08 Rear axle has a balancer mounted right on the pinion, just aft the companion flange. Combine the extra length required for the balancer and the companion flange / flange yoke, and the U-joint connecting the drive shaft to the rear axle ends up sitting about 1.125" forward of the Sterling 10.25" long pinion location. And of course, I didn't have enough clearance for that.

So my drive shaft is about 1" too long, and I have future plans of switching the BW1345 transfer case out for a married NP205, along with the big 1350/1410 drive shafts from a Super Duty shortened to fit. I took the easy way out. I shifted the axle back 1".

And forgot to mention in the front axle section: front drive shaft is now about 1.5" too long. Still need to shorten that one.

Last piece of the puzzle: parking brake.
The newer cables are tied together in a weird way. But I tore that apart and just bolted them in the original bracket, which works just fine, except they were too short to hook up to the stock cable. I saw other swaps where they attempted to extended the cables coming from the rear axle, but I used a different approach.

The long stud at the end of the cable turned out to be standard 5/16" thread, so I grabbed a 5/16" coupling nut, and a piece of 5/16" all-thread, and made it work:

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And this pick shows the 26" measurement from the center of the wheel to the fender lip for the rear axle:

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bike-maker

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And a pic of the new stance. Tires are 35".

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laserjock

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So what's the verdict? Is the swap worth it? Is the ride that much better?
 

reklund

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Damn. Now you have me wanting to swap to Superduty axles on my truck. That looks great, and the write up was awesome. Good work!
 

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