No crank

[Randy Bush]

If I had anybody besides myself driving my trucks than I would definetly want the clutch safety switch working as well,so I can definetly appreciate where you're coming from.There aren't many people I trust driving anything of mine.There is nothing like putting some blood sweat and tears into your truck then watching somebody hop in and "grind me a pound" or "if you can't find em' grind em'" if you know what I mean.



Rock

My sister is pretty much the only one I trust driving my trucks. I have taught her how they start and work.

 

[Dski1991]

I’ve been doing some research and I believe it could be the ignition switch. I’m getting power to the cluster but when I turn the key to start I don’t get anything, my headlights or dome light don’t dim.

what do you guys think?

 

[TNBrett]

I’ve been doing some research and I believe it could be the ignition switch. I’m getting power to the cluster but when I turn the key to start I don’t get anything, my headlights or dome light don’t dim.

what do you guys think?

The new ignition switch? How did the old one fail?
We can guess all day long as to what the problem might be, but it’s just guessing. Do you have a multimeter? You need to start checking for voltage at every point between the ignition switch and the starter. The problem will reveal itself. If you’re not sure what I mean by this let us know and we’ll do our best to talk you through.


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[IDIBRONCO]

Are you getting power to the small terminal on the fender mounted starter solenoid? If not, it could mean a broken wire or a bad connection. It may also mean the the actuator inside your steering column broke. These are known to break occasionally. It's also because of this that my trucks have a push button to activate the starter solenoid on the fender.

 

[Dski1991]

Without me taking the whole column off, I did not see any evidence showing me that the actuator is broken.

 

[Dski1991]

The new ignition switch? How did the old one fail?
We can guess all day long as to what the problem might be, but it’s just guessing. Do you have a multimeter? You need to start checking for voltage at every point between the ignition switch and the starter. The problem will reveal itself. If you’re not sure what I mean by this let us know and we’ll do our best to talk you through.


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I hate electricity, but I don’t have a multimeter and I believe I know the basic of it.
I turn the knob on the multimeter to 20 and start placing the red on what your checking to see if it has power and black on a ground.

when I turn the key over, the little post on the starter solenoid is not getting any power but if I use a screw driver it sparks.

I jump the clutch safety switch and Used the multimeter on that as well, same results, no power.

 

[Farmer Rock]

I had this same thing happen to me a couple months ago,and after endless searching and wire tracing,I ended up wiring in a push button like IDIBRONCO and riphip recommended.I like the simplicity of it,and not having to worry about those stupid actuators.I wired in a fuse block under the hood for other accessories,so I just ran a wire from a terminal on the fuse block,to the push button switch on the dash,then back to the small terminal on the starter solenoid,then she fired right up and hasn't given me a problem since.Electrical can definetly be frustrating at times but once you know the basics and feel comfortable doing it,you will begin to enjoy wiring stuff.You have it right with the multimeter,just make sure you get a decent meter.



Rock

 

[Dski1991]

I had this same thing happen to me a couple months ago,and after endless searching and wire tracing,I ended up wiring in a push button like IDIBRONCO and riphip recommended.I like the simplicity of it,and not having to worry about those stupid actuators.I wired in a fuse block under the hood for other accessories,so I just ran a wire from a terminal on the fuse block,to the push button switch on the dash,then back to the small terminal on the starter solenoid,then she fired right up and hasn't given me a problem since.Electrical can definetly be frustrating at times but once you know the basics and feel comfortable doing it,you will begin to enjoy wiring stuff.You have it right with the multimeter,just make sure you get a decent meter.



Rock

Would you be able to send me pictures on how you did it?

 

[Farmer Rock]

Would you be able to send me pictures on how you did it?

Sure can! You don't need to use the fuse block like I did,but if you decide to ,I can tell you it is well worth the extra $30. From napa because you don't have to splice into factory harnesses everytime you wire something in.This block has 14 hot terminals so I don't worry about running out of space to plug things in,and since there is no fuse in the starting system from the factory,it also adds protection to that.It is really simple to install the push button,and I don't want to over complicate this for you,so if the information in the pictures isn't enough,feel free to ask for further information.You will need 14 gauge wire,heat shrink tubing,assorted crimp connectors and a good momentary push button switch,and if you don't use a fuse block then get an inline fuse.

Rock

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[IDIBRONCO]

Sure can! You don't need to use the fuse block like I did,but if you decide to ,I can tell you it is well worth the extra $30. From napa because you don't have to splice into factory harnesses everytime you wire something in.This block has 14 hot terminals so I don't worry about running out of space to plug things in,and since there is no fuse in the starting system from the factory,it also adds protection to that.It is really simple to install the push button,and I don't want to over complicate this for you,so if the information in the pictures isn't enough,feel free to ask for further information.You will need 14 gauge wire,heat shrink tubing,assorted crimp connectors and a good momentary push button switch,and if you don't use a fuse block then get an inline fuse.

I'm going to go with this type of idea on my Ex Wife truck. Although I'm thinking about running a long power wire (fused of course) over to the driver's side and mounting the fuse block back by the master cylinder. I may remove the 6.9 water seperator and then I'd have a good spot to mount it.

 

[Dski1991]

I did what Rock recommended on doing (thank you for the help). It worked once and now I’m back to step one.

I checked all the wiring from the starter solenoid to the button, that is good. Now I’m not getting any power from one of the fuel shut off solenoid post.

The truck will run if it jump it from the starter solenoid.

 

[TNBrett]

I did what Rock recommended on doing (thank you for the help). It worked once and now I’m back to step one.

I checked all the wiring from the starter solenoid to the button, that is good. Now I’m not getting any power from one of the fuel shut off solenoid post.

The truck will run if it jump it from the starter solenoid.

When you jump the starter solenoid, are you jumping between the two large terminals, or between the battery side and the small terminal?

Perhaps your solenoid is not getting a good ground to the body.


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[Farmer Rock]

I did what Rock recommended on doing (thank you for the help). It worked once and now I’m back to step one.

I checked all the wiring from the starter solenoid to the button, that is good. Now I’m not getting any power from one of the fuel shut off solenoid post.

The truck will run if it jump it from the starter solenoid.[/QUOTE

If you wired it the way we talked about,than that kind of points to something going on with the solenoid.Perhaps like Bret said,it is a bad ground.On the other hand,assuming you installed the inline fuse,what size fuse did you use.To small of a fuse,and it will work for a second then pop the fuse and won't work.



Rock

 

[bilbo]

I had a no crank situation with my ranger once and it ended up being the negative terminal on the battery. Dead in the parking lot at work, I’d get a click from the starter then nothing. The terminal looked fine and didn’t feel loose, but When I pulled the neg clamp off I could see melted spots where it was arcing. I dumped washer fluid on it to get better continuity and it started so I could get home and replace it. Not sure if this would apply with the two batteries but may be worth checking out?

 

[jpww]

Like Brett said checking voltages will help narrow down cause of your issues. These diagrams may help, I would check fusible link M 1st as it feeds circuit 37 / yellow / IGN switch Batt. Heater blower works?

I'll try get you more details later today

J

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