No Charge!

[catbird7]

I hate electrical problem, hate em! Anyway my truck has been torn apart for severla months now and finally after finishing the rear frame and
suspension work, including fuel tanks and e-pump, I finally was able to start it again. However when I started it, noticed the battery light was on
so I checked the batteries with a meter and sure enough, it's not charging. Searching back through memory of the previous months of work I do
recall when I was removing the metal fuel line that crosses over (right to left) on the front cross member, I remember that line hitting the hot wire
on the starter and it really made the sparks fly. Could this damage anything in the charging circuit??? It's the only thing I can remember
that may have damaged it. If so, what needs to be replaced? Voltage reg? Alternator? Fuse? Thanks............

 

[laserjock]

Still running 1g alternator? If so, it could be the external regulator. I think there is a fusible link from the alternator to the tie in at the starter relay on the fender. If everything else works, those are the two things is check.

 

[catbird7]

Thanks!, External regulator (silver box on passenger fender)? How can I test this? I do have a spare voltage reg. on my old truck, guess I could just swap them and
test voltage with the engine running?
Not sure which alternator, it was on this truck when I bought it however it did work several months ago.

 

[laserjock]

Yep. Silver box on the pass side fender well. If you have one, then swapping would probably be the easiest way to check it. Do you have any idea if the other one was good or not?

If you still have the external reg, you probaly still have a 1g alt. 1g alt has the fan behind the pulley. Check the voltage with the engine running. It should be up around 13.5-14 V if it's charging. May have to give it a little throttle so see it. It should charge at idle but it may not charge very fast (i.e. the voltage from the alt may be lower than you'd expect).

Check continuity on all the wires going to and from the alternator too before you get too deep.

 

[jpw]

To check the fusible link that charges the battery from the alternator use a voltmeter to check alternator case to charge wire battery stud (thickest wire on aalternator) you should have system voltage, if more than .5volts different from battery you have issues.

Check alternator ground with volt meter from battery negative - alternator case should read less than one tenth of a Volt. Check charge circuit with meter on battery positive to Batt+ stud on back of alternator should be have 1/2 volt or less.

If this checks okay try to confirm what type of alternator you have, internal or external regulated and can help you check rest of wiring and regulator.

 

[catbird7]

Sorry, I've been travelling the last few days however I wanted to report back. I did change the voltage regs with the same result "no charge". Also noticed another
disturbing problem that supersedes the minor electrical issue. I pulled the dipstick to find antifreeze in the oil! Damn! I didn't want to change engines just yet
however now I'm forced to do something. I have the 7.3 out of my previous truck and I know it runs "OK" however it has over 300,000 miles on the bottom end. Might
be a good excuse to look for a cummins......... I know you guys hate to hear that however that's the direction this truck is eventually headed. I'll start the pulling
process this weekend.......... Thanks for the help on the charging issue!

 

[madpogue]

Change engines? You've already ruled out the oil cooler?

 

[catbird7]

I've never changed an oil cooler however I did have the oil cooler "O"-rings changed on my old engine when the heads were off for a valve job. So I suppose if I was sure it was simply the oil cooler, that would be much easier to swap out than the entire engine. How can I check for an oil cooler leak?

 

[Agnem]

Spin the oil filter off and pressurize the cooling system. If it is an oil cooler leak, it may come out where the filter mounts. As for your charging situation, most likely scenario is that the brushes are stuck from the thing sitting too much. Try whacking the alternator with a hammer.

 

[catbird7]

Thanks Mel!

 

[G. Mann]

As it happens, I'm having the exact same issues with my 92 F450, 7.3, external regulated alternator.

Problem: Not charging.

Done so far:

New alternator. Still not charging. Tested the one taken off, it was working fine on test bench.
Replaced voltage regulator. TWICE.. still no charge.

All connections are clean, bright, and tight. Batteries are full recharged, 12.4 volts. With engine at 1500 rpm ..dash gauge shows 10 amps.

I added a ground wire from base of voltage regulator to ground, just to be sure. No change.

Help? Suggestions?

 

[jpw]

I would suggest googling for images on full field Ford externally regulated alternator. It's a pretty simple jumper wire A to F terminals, B+ to F works also. It's only a good idea to do it for a few seconds with a voltmeter measuring system voltage as it will go to the max the alternator can put out. If it doesn't go over 14 or 15 volts in a few seconds it might be a good idea to have the alternator bench tested. This is all assuming you tested power and ground to the alternator as suggested a few posts above.

Hope this helps