NEWBIE ;oil in overflow and all over cap. am i screwed

bowhunter13

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starting with basics on this truck..i just got it and only drove it home and around the block.

it sat for at least 2 yrs. just got gauges working and im at @ 250k. truck started right off and drove nice.. no smoke.

only issue was a hard shift and no speedo.. found out fuse # 8 was blown and speedo works not sure about shifting.

fixing fule lines and new fuel filter.. no sure i got right one as there is not connector on the bottom to hook up that one fitting. ( i assume its a water sensor)

So i am about to do oil change and pull off radiator cap. all kinds of oil and its low... (small leak on pass side of radiator where tranny line connects, radiator is new aluminum one)

pull off the overflow bottle and its got an inch of oil on top.. ***... I about crapped my pants.

NOW what.. i am flushing all kinds of sludge out of the radiator and have to get a kit to do a preston flush.

PLEASE TELL ME THERE IS A GOOD FIX OR THIS IS NOT AS BAD AS I THINK.. Im worried the head gaskets are bad BUT NO WATER IN OIL.... ??


ANY DIRECTION IS HELPFUL!!
 

snicklas

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Is there any water in the crankcase? IE: Milkshake on the dipstick, or WAY overfull?

Could be the oil cooler, which is not the easiest, but at least its external to the engine and can be fixed in an afternoon...

At worst could be headgaskets, cracked head, or cavitation.

But..... the first important thing.... Is there water/coolant in the crankcase. That will give us some direction......
 

bowhunter13

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What kit to get..

OK ford has the Orings and paper gaskets. all sold seperate.. want like 40 bucks..

Felpro sell a kit for 7 bucks. ES72519.

WHY SO DIFFERNT??? ANYONE have direction on what one to use??
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Gaskets... ES70689

O-Rings.... GS33545

Those are the parts I used when I rebuilt mine. Ordered from Rockauto.

The flat gaskets in the kit you posted look different and it has too many o-rings. Rebuilding the oil cooler isnt bad.. but plan on a weekend. You will want to remove the lower bolt from the steering shaft to steering box clamp and move the shaft out of the way which will give you enough room to remove and install the oil cooler in one piece. Clean it VERY well and grease the o-rings really well on reassembly. Make sure the block gasket surfaces are CLEAN and do NOT use any added sealant on the gaskets.
 

direwulf23

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On the more minor issue of you have an automatic tranny the Speedo problem could easily cause the hard shifting. An OBD1 scanner can get you some info as well.

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AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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The hard shifting could also be the FIPL sensor on the side of the injection pump (works like a throttle position sensor) and they are adjustable. If its adjusted too high, the trans thinks you are driving harder (more throttle) which increases shift firmness.

There is an adjustment procedure for it if that's the case.
 

direwulf23

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Be aware, I made this mistake, that when you scan the throttle needs to be in the wide open position or the code for a bad FIPL will always show up.

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madpogue

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Aren't the oil cooler o-rings among the things that folks have had trouble with in the aftermarket / FLAPS brands? I thought it was recommended to go OEM / Motorcraft only, or a reputable supplier like dieselorings.com . I may be thinking of something else, though.....
 

79jasper

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^ precisely.
But when people want to be cheap and do it over again, spending twice the money, who am I to tell them otherwise?

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bowhunter13

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I finally got the oil cooler out. The seals were shot, the orings were very brittle. There seems to be some small fragments of metal in the center section of the cooler I cleaned it out and everytime I turn it one way or the other I get small chunks of metal down at the bottom. What does that mean? Also on the ends were the O-rings go that aluminum seems to be very coarse and rough should I try to smooth it out or just make sure the areas where the O-rings go or smooth?
 

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