new to me 89 f350, got some questions

cardana24

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made some progress this weekend. My neighbor was able to help me with the welding.
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Then I pulled the stock tape player out and put a cd player in. I rigged up the rear holder piece, so that the deck can be secure on the rear too.

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I got the interior back in too but I forgot to take pics. I'll get those soon.
 

cardana24

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I looked under the truck and there was some slack in the parking brake. So I tighten the adjuster a little bit but it is pulling the cables un even since the adjuster is not attached to anything. Is the adjuster just supposed to be dangling next to the frame?
 

crash-harris

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The adjuster is only connected by the front cable and the rear cables to the drums. You may need to adjust it as well, but do yourself a huge favor and take it off the truck and soak the entire thing in penetrating fluid. Like submerge the whole assembly in PB Blaster. The threaded rod is a very small diameter with that large nut on it for adjustments, but if you go turning it, most of the time it'll will just twist in 2.

I have designs to make a beefier one, but other things have come first, so I haven't gotten to it yet.
 

cardana24

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The adjuster is only connected by the front cable and the rear cables to the drums. You may need to adjust it as well, but do yourself a huge favor and take it off the truck and soak the entire thing in penetrating fluid. Like submerge the whole assembly in PB Blaster. The threaded rod is a very small diameter with that large nut on it for adjustments, but if you go turning it, most of the time it'll will just twist in 2.

I have designs to make a beefier one, but other things have come first, so I haven't gotten to it yet.

I soaked the adjuster with PB blaster before turning it. The nut actually moved with out too much resistance. But once I tightened it up some it started pulling the right rear cable more than the left rear. I ordered all new cables on rock auto, they were only 30 something total.
 

79jasper

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Yes, it's the thin one.
The pedal box are up high. Have to pull the pedal assembly. It's not hard at all. I can get you a part number, parts store won't have it. Dealer part.

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madpogue

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Yes, that's the one that will fail just as plastic-craptastically as the OEM. If you want to actually FIX it, two choices:
* Semi-expensive and some work - heim joint (search here, any other forum, or flea-bay for "ford clutch heim joint fix") - requires cutting off the eyelet end of the pushrod
* Cheap/easy alternative - short piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing, just enough to fit in the eyelet. This becomes the new bushing. Install, assemble, and then put a 7/16" drill stop collar on the end of the "pin" that engages the eyelet, and tighten the set screw on the collar.
*** Note *** Option 2 (cheap/easy) is only really viable IF the existing bushing is NOT so shot that the eyelet is wearing (elongated or "egged out"). If the eyelet hole is worn/egged, then option 1 (heim) is the better choice, since it eliminates the egged-out eyelet.


Where is the pedal box bushing located.
On the shaft between the pedal and the arm. Notice how the pedal is (of course) to the left of the brake, but the pushrod/master is to the right? Dunno what egghead came up with that design, but there's a shaft that runs between them, that rotates when you push the pedal. Rides on the bushings. Once again, if the bushings are so shot that the holes in the pedal box frame (bracket, whatever) are getting "ground" by the shaft, you get to replace the whole pedal box.
 

79jasper

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Actually I did both.
I pulled mine out, saw the holes egged out, ran to lkq, grabbed one (took like 5 minutes) put the new bushings in that one.
Ones in it weren't bad, but I had it out....
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