new to me 89 f350, got some questions

Wvdirtroad

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Comment on the crack in the floor above. If you're decent with a welder I would do one of two things- see if you can weld the crack up without blowing through where the rust is or cut the area out entirely around the dent (looks like you're far enough away from those floor pan indentations) and bend a piece of steel up and weld back in. If you go the patch route you'll still have to bend up a piece of steel to fit that area and weld it, so may as well remove the cancer while you're at it. Only reason I suggest this, is plate patches will trap moisture between the plate and the original floor pan and its only a matter of time before that area rusts back out, especially if you don't attempt to weld the crack in the floor and moisture is able to seep in through it. However if you decide to just plate it, I would get a couple cans of spray on bedliner and do both the underside of that part on the cab, and cover the plate you weld in. I know the hole rusty metal headache from my time with CJ7's... lol.
 

79jasper

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For the clutch you need to replace the pedal box bushings and the clutch arm bushing.

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cardana24

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Comment on the crack in the floor above. If you're decent with a welder I would do one of two things- see if you can weld the crack up without blowing through where the rust is or cut the area out entirely around the dent (looks like you're far enough away from those floor pan indentations) and bend a piece of steel up and weld back in. If you go the patch route you'll still have to bend up a piece of steel to fit that area and weld it, so may as well remove the cancer while you're at it. Only reason I suggest this, is plate patches will trap moisture between the plate and the original floor pan and its only a matter of time before that area rusts back out, especially if you don't attempt to weld the crack in the floor and moisture is able to seep in through it. However if you decide to just plate it, I would get a couple cans of spray on bedliner and do both the underside of that part on the cab, and cover the plate you weld in. I know the hole rusty metal headache from my time with CJ7's... lol.

I have not learned to weld yet, but it is on my list of things to learn to do. I used to have an 85 XJ, and that floor pan looked like swiss cheese.

For the clutch you need to replace the pedal box bushings and the clutch arm bushing.

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Are those dealer only bushings?

While digging around I found some stuff about firewall flex and reinforcement plates. Is that not applicable to my 89?
 

crash-harris

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It's a possibility that the firewall is cracked, the reinforcement kit will work. Work the pedal by hand while observing the firewall all around the master cylinder.

I'm curious about the rod bushings as well (rod from pedal arm to MC rod) as I have to max out clutch pedal travel for starting as well, and I have already replaced the bushing that slips into the MC rod.
 

IDIoit

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cardana24

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my neighbor is supposed to help me out with welding the floor board. I also got the idle turned down last night, now I have a warm idle of about 650 which is nice, and as of now it is not dying when you goose the gas pedal when cold, so hopefully the fuel filter full of atf did it's magic.

Does anyone know if we can buy replacement seat brackets? Mine have some rust and if they are available and not super expensive I may pick some up.
 

Wvdirtroad

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I have not learned to weld yet, but it is on my list of things to learn to do. I used to have an 85 XJ, and that floor pan looked like swiss cheese.

Do yourself a favor a treat yourself to a good welder when you do start. Stick to one of the big 3 (miller, Hobart, Lincoln).
 

DirtRoads

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Do yourself a favor a treat yourself to a good welder when you do start. Stick to one of the big 3 (miller, Hobart, Lincoln).

Moreover, start with a 220v welder if you have 220 service. You will NEVER regret starting out with a larger machine as you can always turn it down.
 

IDIoit

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at the minimum, a 110 with gas provisions will allow you to weld thin metals.
 

cardana24

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Moreover, start with a 220v welder if you have 220 service. You will NEVER regret starting out with a larger machine as you can always turn it down.

I have 220 in my garage, so when I do get one I will get one set up for 220. I need to hurry up and learn because this is holding me up from putting the truck on the road.
 

Wvdirtroad

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The Hobart 210MVP is a good welder to consider. You can choose between voltages depending on if or not you have 220 available.
 

riotwarrior

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Firewall flex usually is 2 person observable. One pushes clutch other watches in engine compartment...its very obvious.

No adjustment on clutch lock interface could be pedal cross shaft bushings worn could be clutch actuating arm and bushing worn coukd be firewall flex or any combination of those.

Get the welder bit...drill an 1/8" hole at the end of each crack before welding...then weld it up spot n stitch weld it.

Truck looks good.

Some type of either hydraulic or vacuum over hydraulic brake system. There must be a secondary pump of some type on front of engine cor thqt setup.....report back.

Enjoy the truck.
 

Lumberjack84

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read the no power locks working, my '84s didn't work only the passenger side would lock but not unlock and the driver side didn't work at all but one day I moved the switch back and forth really fast and for some reason they started working again :D nice truck by the way
 

madpogue

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I did replace that one. I guess I was talking about the pedal box bushings.
Poor man's pedal box bushing test - rest your right foot VERY lightly (just touching) on the brake pedal, then work the clutch pedal normally with your left foot. If you feel any "feedback" in your right foot through the brake pedal as the clutch pedal moves, the pedal box bushings are shot. $20-ish at the dealer. Disconnect the steering shaft, disconnect the brake pushrod, unbolt the box from the firewall, then you gotta twist and shimmy and curse at the assembly to get JUST the right position/angle for it to come out.

(That's a shaft, not a rod, going through the pedal box, BTW. Shafts rotate, rods move lengthwise.)
 
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