Need help with recharging my AC system with R12

jaluhn83

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I'm surprised he didn't replace the accumulator. Everything I've seen says it's strongly recommended anytime the system is serviced. But maybe he know something I dont.....
 

icanfixall

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I'm surprised he didn't replace the accumulator. Everything I've seen says it's strongly recommended anytime the system is serviced. But maybe he know something I dont.....

Wow... I'm surprised too. I know I sure would have replaced the dryer.
 

jim x 3

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Update- I took it to my friends dad who has been in the AC business for 19 years and he helped me out. Vacuumed out the system, replaced the oriphace tube, and put all new o-rings, then recharged with r-12. It's been two days and it's still blowing ice cold.

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Forgive my ignorance, but where are the O-rings and how do you change out the orifice tube?

Regards,
 

RLDSL

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If its been sitting empty in that part of Texas, and the system was partially open, there was no need to replace the drier, atmosphere is bone dry ( read that climate semi arid desert ) dessicant would have dried itself out and would be good to go again. Sometimes local knowledge outweighs book standards. You could not pull this off in most parts of the country
 

blakpete91

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Forgive my ignorance, but where are the O-rings and how do you change out the orifice tube?

Regards,

I'll have to snag some pictures of where they are located. As I mentioned I have no knowledge of AC so I was kind of just watching what he was doing. The oriphace is inside of a bigger side hose near the low pressure charging port. When you pull the hose apart he used what looked to be some sort of plastic slip on collar tool to do it. Once the hose was apart he used long needle nose plyers to reach in and pull out the oriphace tube. The 2 o-rings are located in this same spot where this hose spits in half. Again I will grab some pictures so I may better explain myself.
 

cpdenton

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There is an o-ring at every connector in the a/c system.

1 on each pipe from the condenser. 2 on the back of the compressor. 1 on each end of the dryer. You get the idea.
 

youngunbd

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I'm about to do mine on my 86 6.9

I have a new orifice tube, and o-ring kit from rock auto

This'll be interesting!
 

MedicMoe

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reklund just helped me charge up my a/c system with 134a. took 42 ounces and 8 ounces of ester oil. we swapped a few o-rings, the dryer, and added a belt to the compressor. Ice cold air now! Thanks Reklund!
 

Still Strokin

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I'm surprised he didn't replace the accumulator. Everything I've seen says it's strongly recommended anytime the system is serviced. But maybe he know something I dont.....

Yea, I'm surprised he didn't change it either since they are only about $15-$20.... If you open an AC system more than twice I like to replace them.... NO big deal though if its blowing ice cold.... Def a good idea to split the connection on the firewall and replace the orrifice tube or replace it... They are known to get it dirty and plugged up... I'd stick with R12 too over 134.... It cools so much better in older systems.... Retrofitting will work if the condensor has small tubes in it almost like a radiator but if it has larger tubes like maybe 5/16 or 3/8 diameter that 134 just doesn't like to condense in them, thus resulting in higher cooling temps..... As for the license to buy r12... that is almost an epa joke.... I got my epa 609 cert last year online for $45.....
 

RLDSL

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Yea, I'm surprised he didn't change it either since they are only about $15-$20.... If you open an AC system more than twice I like to replace them.... NO big deal though if its blowing ice cold.... Def a good idea to split the connection on the firewall and replace the orrifice tube or replace it... They are known to get it dirty and plugged up... I'd stick with R12 too over 134.... It cools so much better in older systems.... Retrofitting will work if the condensor has small tubes in it almost like a radiator but if it has larger tubes like maybe 5/16 or 3/8 diameter that 134 just doesn't like to condense in them, thus resulting in higher cooling temps..... As for the license to buy r12... that is almost an epa joke.... I got my epa 609 cert last year online for $45.....
You are correct... for where you live, replacing teh accumulator would be required as teh dessicant would be saturated after 10 years of a compromised system, , where I live as well, but where he lives, if you laid a worm out on the ground, it would be dust in a matter of minuits if it didnt get under ground. The dessicant would actually release any trapped moisture in a system that has been sitting empty for 10 years with bum orings, the dry atmosphere would suck it completely bone dry, like everything else. so no worries. The old guy knew what he was doing ;Sweet Gotta remember, sometimes us old farts have a trick or two up our sleeves that comes from being around a while :D
 

2stroke

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Another trick from an old timer
think you got a leak or want to find a leak--just charge 150 psi of nitrogen in the system. It will absorb moisture and make finding the leak easy or confirm you have no leak. Then vacuum the system you need not worry about the nitrogen hurting anything and its real cheap and safe to discharge to the air. This will work with either 134 or 12
 

2stroke

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Any welding supply Oxy--Acet--Argon etc. Carfull its high preasure will need a regulator and some hose/fittings.
 

Still Strokin

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RLDSL, you are 100% correct regarding the dryer and old farts...... I'm 30 and all the good tricks and tips I've learned are are from guys 20 - 30 years older than me..... They've pretty much seen and done it all, so its a good idea to listen to them
 

jaluhn83

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R-12 is no more dangerous than R-134. It is ozone damaging, yes, but I doubt the small amount in one random truck is going to be that big of a deal.

Some of us here like doing things the old way - my advice would be to convert to 134 since it's easy and works better in the long run, but if someone comes on asking how to use R-12 I'm not going to jump down his throat about it.....
 
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