6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
I'm going to use a detroit true trac in the rear
Most HP and TQ a 10.25 can take?
- Thread starter 6.9poweredscout
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tractorman86
Registered User
Jon stay with ford parts, use a 10.5 with what ever gear set like they mentioned in the article using 10.25 pinion for the bigger bearing. Now the interesting part, 10.25 & 10.5 use the same axles(iirc) and hub bearings but different seals. Couldn't you use a10.5 axle with 10.25 hubs and roters from a2000 E250 to keep your 8x6.5 wheel pattern? and you would have off the shelf disk brakes and a lower over all cost.
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
Just another page of research for me to do! You mean to use the factory posi instead of the detroit?
why not do like all the big pullers do and use a dodge dana 80? with the tubes reamed out for the larger axle shafts?
i know, i said the nasty d word....
i know, i said the nasty d word....
Matrix37495
The Amish Wolfman
Go big or go home... Dana 110... 
93cc7.3
needs turbo power
Go big or go home... Dana 110...
Lol yes
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
Ehhh the dodge parts scare me haha. I guess I haven't really researched one. What do they usually go for?
tractorman86
Registered User
No no i would definitely use the Detroit, i was saying to have the majority of the parts still from fords, especially the disk brakes part.
BrandonBerkosky
Full Access Member
I'm going to ask a question while i have all u guys here talking rears. I had the pinion yoke off of my 10.25 two or the times while hunting down the 1350 yoke (that's a whole 'nother story) my question is did i F#@k up the crush sleeve by just banging the yoke on with the gun all those times??
dizdak
Full Access Member
http://www.differentialeng.com/
this guy may be able to help with suggestions if you need, he been building axles for over 20yrs, he builds most of the high HP mud/ race trucks axles down here.. 1ton -2.5 ton axles.. he is the guru for us FL boys...
this guy may be able to help with suggestions if you need, he been building axles for over 20yrs, he builds most of the high HP mud/ race trucks axles down here.. 1ton -2.5 ton axles.. he is the guru for us FL boys...
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
The way you put a crush-sleeve axle together is you constantly check the pinion preload as you tighten the nut - first you take all the slop out and check preload, then you tighten nut some more and check preload again, then tighten more and check again, and so on till you get the preload where you want it. If you overshoot a tiny bit don't back it out, just leave it be and run w/ it. If you overshoot by a lot you should pull the yoke and sleeve out and try again w/ new sleeve.
So whether you killed your sleeve or not greatly depends on how you used the impact. If you started w/ fresh sleeve and simply ran the nut in till you took up the slack, but never continued w/ the actual crushing of the sleeve to get proper bearings preload, then you should be fine. If you only crushed the sleeve a tiny bit, but never got the bearings preload up to where it should be, then you will again be fine. However if you just took the yoke off an already assembled and preloaded axle, or you got the pinion preload up to specs the first time you put axle together, then chances are you'll be needing a new sleeve. Which should be obtainable at just about any parts store, may have to wait a day till they get it from warehouse tho.
That said, years ago I found my pinion yoke loose, and not knowing any better I just tightened the nut back in w/ a large breaker bar (working parking brakes are excellent help in that matter). Up until my last long road trip I never had any problems w/ it, and in the mean time I've had the diff out twice (first time to Lincoln-lock an open carrier, 2nd time to replace it w/ proper factory LSD carrier) and gear wear was still perfect. Hopefully it still is perfect, and my front seal leak was caused by petrified seal and not by loose yoke.
Also, my crush sleeve eliminator kit just showed up today. Has very simple and clear instructions on how to install it, also a table of now to combine the shims (kit includes one .010, two .012, one .016, and one .020, just wish they were labeled) to achieve different stack thickness as needed. Gonna play w/that maybe this weekend, still need to procure the actual seal, Dana 70 ring gear bolts, new brake shoes, and also poly swaybar bushings - if I'm pulling wheels to get to axle shafts I might as well do brake, if I'm pulling diff to inspect bearings might as well fix the bolts issue, and if I'm dropping the driveshaft hoop for the pinion seal might as well do bushings. Sounds like a fun day, ain't it?
I'd be inclined to agree with Towcat and go with the Dana 80, but dont try to go with higher gears. stick with whats in the thing, go with the 4.56 or 5.13 setup If you are planning on putting that much power into a rear, if you try to drive a tall set of gears, you are only going to twist either the ujoints apart or teh driveshaft in half. That rear will hold up just fine. Its a beast. They have those things on all kinds of heavy service trucks around here that take immense beatings
If you are pushing for that kind of power, fuel mileage has already been thrown out the wondow, so the lower gears shouldnt be a concern
If you are pushing for that kind of power, fuel mileage has already been thrown out the wondow, so the lower gears shouldnt be a concern
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
I'm going for highway driveability. With 3.55/.73ish gears and od on 33/35s I shouldn't have a while lot of rpms cruising the highway at 70
If you try for that combination, then you had better plan on investing in some serious driveshafts, and a custom output yoke a bit heavier than a 1350. Id want at least 1440 ujoints with that kind of power, especially with tall gears and you would need shafts built all to heck to hold up to it.. I dont even push much extra power, but I tow heavy, and you should SEE the shafts that my builder insisted on building for that sucker so as not to risk twisting one out... I can't even lift the front one
it's a beautifully balanced piece of work though, been down there for quite some time now and no wear on the joints 
You could always pop an overdrive or a brownie in there and be able to have basically both rear combinations so as not to tear things up when you get heavy footed
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
Yeah I'm planning on 14xx series u joints. Any idea on your tube diameter and thickness? I'd like to order the thickest tube possible when we build the shafts. I think with the divorced t case that's already more u joints and driveshafts than I want spinning around under the truck! 
