MONSTER TRANSMISSION

zbbcmonster

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I have a 7.3 turbo with the e4od and it's been acting funny and I can't figure it out and was looking at trannys and wanted to do something better than stock and was looking at getting a monster transmission what are your guys opinion on this
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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the problem with this is,the same symptoms could follow the new trans if the issue is electrical.what exactly is the trans doing?
 

Thewespaul

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I have a 7.3 turbo with the e4od and it's been acting funny and I can't figure it out and was looking at trannys and wanted to do something better than stock and was looking at getting a ZF5 transmission what are your guys opinion on this

Yeah that sounds great ;Sweet
 

zbbcmonster

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The od light is flashing and when I scanned it the only codes where 65 and 74 I would rescan it but someone barrowed my scanner and has not gave it back yet but it seems to drive fine but doesn't want to downshift sometimes and sometimes the rpms want to kinda bounce if going up a hill that is kinda long but it won't down shift and the kinda of bounces not much though almost unnoticeable any advice would be great
 

mblaney

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Three sensors you might want to check or replace first. Throttle position (on side of IP), tach sensor (in front of IP), and the Vehicle speed sensor on the rear diff. Bouncing rpms (assuming actual rpms and not just your tach needle) could be torque converter unlocking. If you are anything like me you probably neglect to check or replace the VSS... amazing how much better **** works when the VSS is working. :rolleyes:
 

zbbcmonster

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When I replaced my ip I replaced the tps and I replaced the speed sensor in the rear diff and I thought that it might be torque converter messing up to but seems to do fine most of time but I will look into the tach sensor
 

The Bus

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My transmission was dropping out of OD and acting strange. Now my Tach Sensor was well past the point of replacing - I drove a screw into the top to hold the wire in until I had time to pick one up -it worked. They aren't cheap either. Rock Auto has one for about $55.00 but never seems to have them in stock. My local Ford Truck Dealer, All State Ford had them in stock for about $65 so it was about a wash with shipping.

Put in and all was well driving to the UofL Football Game. Coming back was a different story - problems with the transmission again. Three speeds and under 45 mph makes for a long trip home even after a win.

So I searched the forum and learned that the brake light circuit is tied with this same circuit. Well my bus has a carrier on the back for the grill with a light bar I installed.

The trailer connect was added before I got it and well let's just say not very good (I can't remember the company that installed it - lot of "quick connect" wire splices).

I removed the bar and disconnected the harness. Drove The Bus without the lights for about 5 miles - no problems. Return trip with the lights on - no problems.

The shifting problem started around the same time when someone told me that my brake light on my carrier was out. I reconnect some of the wires and the brakes started working and now that I recall the shifting problems stopped too. Then it stopped working again this year and the transmission started acting up so I looked at the obvious, Tach Sensor which had issues.

So if you have "questionable wiring" with your truck, look at it. It sounds strange, but if it's grounding out or drawing too much voltage, it will affect your transmission.

Also here is a previous post with a lot of good info:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?66692-1994-T-E4OD-kicking-out-of-overdrive-on-Interstate
 
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DaveBen

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The od light is flashing and when I scanned it the only codes where 65 and 74 I would rescan it but someone barrowed my scanner and has not gave it back yet but it seems to drive fine but doesn't want to downshift sometimes and sometimes the rpms want to kinda bounce if going up a hill that is kinda long but it won't down shift and the kinda of bounces not much though almost unnoticeable any advice would be great

The codes you have posted are not OBD II codes. You should be seeing P XXXX with the X's being the codes like P 0245. Ford has used these codes since '92 that I know of.
 

trackspeeder

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Code 65 - P1780. OD OFF switch was not cycled during test.

Code 74 - P1703. BPP or BOO in old term wasn't actuated during test. BPP is Brake Pedal Position switch.
 

no mufflers

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there is also that relay under the hood for the trans. I have had mine go and it gets all sorts of screwed up.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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there is also that relay under the hood for the trans. I have had mine go and it gets all sorts of screwed up.

when that fails,or some other reason that causes no power to reach the solenoid pack,the od cancel button light will be on all the time,dimly.along with this,the truck will feel as if it's stuck in the mud,with high gear take offs.
 

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