Metal in transmisson. Whats normal?

hotshotidi

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Yes shift kits do but i recommend a builder doing it you got to drill holes bmaybe block holes .if there's springs some kits come with springs but remember if your bands aren't hd it could lessen the trans life .theres different shift kits stages almost like a tuner for PSD but manual .
 

finitetime

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one thing I didn't think to point out is the high mileage I have put on my truck is driving 100 miles round trip down the interstae to Atlanta where I do most of my work and only a small fraction was actually pulling the machine. I have been in the same neighbor hoods where I load the machine up and haul it 1 to five mile to the next job and there it sits for days or a week while work and wait on inspections.
 

trackspeeder

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First about code 62. This is based on converter slip. It can come from a stuck lock up valve, bad solenoid, or bad converter.
Most of the time its a bad solenoid, because the TCM will detect that first. The other will show up right about when it quits.-cuss

What you have on the magnet is normal clutch mud. If the magnet looks like a Chia pet, then you have issues. :eek:

Change the fluid and filter. Clean the cooler out. Then drive it.

I would go bigger with the cooler. Tru Cool max is a very good cooler.;Sweet
 

OLDBULL8

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I take it that the trans fluid hasn't been changed in 85K miles, except for the recent change when the solenoid pack was changed. I would do a complete flush, just changing the pan fluid will not get all the "magnet dust" out or even the dust left in the torque converter. Here is how to flush it, may save your tranny for many more miles.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?29296-Flushing-a-E4OD-or-4R100

When the sol.pack was changed, was the metal shield put back on, the one on the pass side of the trans.?
Check the connector there, may not have been seated all the way.
Since you still have a flashing OD, does the tach and speedo work flawlessly?

There's a lot of steel in this trans too. The first one I took the pan off after it started rattling and it was obvious something had come apart.

What about these pieces of clutch. These are large pieces I could pick out. they were the only ones I could find so that's probably it.
Your attachment pic didn't work, can't see the pieces. If the rattle came from the TC, then it's probably destroying it self. Normally big pieces indicate that, the dust on the magnet is normal for that many miles.

If the fluid has never been changed in that many miles, I doubt the warranty will be honored. Don't tell them that.
 

finitetime

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Lets try it again.

CODE 62 IS BACK!!!!!! Went into limp mode on the way home tonight.

Lets try it again. The flakes are not metal. I didn't really see any metal as ford250 pointed out. It more disc wear and the 3 big flakes i found were also disk material. I looked for more but didn't find it. The rest was a fine dust or shavings but I couldn't say there was any metal other than the fact it was stuck to a magnet.

It does not rattle, slip or anything that I can feel at this point. It shifts a little quicker with the new solenoid pack so it doesn't feel the same anyways.

No it hasn't been changed. But beleave it or not The Trans shop I bought it from sent Redline fully synthetic oil and It has always looked bright red until recently and it still just had a little darker red color to it. I asked about it last spring when I had the seal where the drive shaft comes out replaced. Mechanic said it looked brand new.:dunno They sent no paper work as far as care only what they did and didn't cover and people have a lot of opinions on when to change transmission oil.
 
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finitetime

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23 10 and 62

Was not holding throttle so i got a 23 flps out of range.
Nobody not even the book knows what a 10 is
 

OLDBULL8

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Code 10 is just a stray code, could have come from not holding the throttle down.

and people have a lot of opinions on when to change transmission oil.

Ain't that the truth, and a lot of people have trashed and/or burn't up transmissions. Mercon or Mercon V have a life of 30 to 40K miles, Red Line synthetic has a life of 60 to 70k miles.
How did they change the solenoid pack, did they reuse the trans fluid?

Since you got another code 62, I would recheck the connector to the solenoid pack. If they put dielectric grease on the pins, clean it off.
You can check the resistance to the TC lockup sol. with a VOM, Black lead to Grd., Red lead-pierce the Green wire on the connector, should get 20 - 30 Ohm reading when it's good.
 

finitetime

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He bought new full synthetic after he changed the solenoid pack. Well I bought it.

I wondered about how long the synthetic would last but have no experience with it. like I said I had a small leak and had been putting about quarter of a quart a year in it so I have been checking it expecting to see it change color.

I have had some intermittent problems with it too so its been to a few transmission shops and the first thing they all did was pull the dipstick and check out the fluid and said it was good. I was really impress with how well its done and held up.


Thanks that's what I need some advise on something I can check myself. I will check it just before I call my mechanic and tell him the bad news again.
 

OLDBULL8

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I wondered about how long the synthetic would last but have no experience with it. like I said I had a small leak and had been putting about quarter of a quart a year in it so I have been checking it expecting to see it change color.

You can run the fluid probably forever and it won't change color as long as it's not overheated. But that don't mean that the additives have not worn out (depleted), that's when you start getting all the fuzz on the magnet. That's similar to motor oil, there is additives to make it like a 10W40, eventually the additives are depleted and you don't have 10W40 anymore, more like a straight 30 oil.
Ya gotta remember, transmission shops and mechanics are in business to make money, they won't tell you anymore than necessary, unless you ask questions, then you have to know what to ask. :D
 

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