Starting to dump fuel from the valley and dripping diesel down both sides of block.What am I looking at $$$ wise and what's the best brand to stick with.Dont think I need a moose pump since I'm staying stock unless its close to regular pump money wise.How much is this gonna set me back?Also do the injectors need to be switched out?Seems like every wk something breaks or needs fixing.I know I'm dealing with a 20 yr old truck but man this is getting old!!
Maybe new IP time!!!
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Contact either Mel @ Conestoga Diesel or typ4 aka Russ in oregon. The have th best pump available for the cost. Now Mel makes a baby Moose thats completely stock but much better than stock because he uses only quality STANDYNE PARTS. THE CHEAPER BUILDERS USE ALL KINDS OF CRAP TO MAKE MORE PROFITS. YOU JUST CAN'T BEAT MEL OR RUSS FOR QUALITY &THEY STAND BEHIND..
Each new repair/replacement will undoubtably help show up other weak links from lack of service. As vehicles in general get older and older the owners tend to in general, do less and less maintanence be it preventative or otherwise, thus when we get a truck that's 20+ years old it's on it's end.
the good thing about this, is you can invest in it for far less than a monthly payment on a newer truck and be money ahead. Plan for some big stuff up front and slowly work out all the small stuff. You'll be way ahead of the game compared to monthly $$ on a new truck.
Ya it's a sucky thing sometimes but eh...it is what it is...an old truck needing some TLC
And yes, Mel can help you out!
the good thing about this, is you can invest in it for far less than a monthly payment on a newer truck and be money ahead. Plan for some big stuff up front and slowly work out all the small stuff. You'll be way ahead of the game compared to monthly $$ on a new truck.
Ya it's a sucky thing sometimes but eh...it is what it is...an old truck needing some TLC
And yes, Mel can help you out!
There where some used IP's in Marketplace here, may save u a few bucks right now, then buy injectors new then an IP new and toss those in together when you can.
Well talked to Mel and I'm thinking of getting the baby moose along with injectors.
Since I'm gonna be spending some money I'm thinking of getting the engine thoroughly checked just in case,don't need something like a head gasket to be replaced or something similar.i love my truck but cannot afford to miss work because my truck is acting up.what kind of test can be done to assure me that all is well internally?Compression?
Since I'm gonna be spending some money I'm thinking of getting the engine thoroughly checked just in case,don't need something like a head gasket to be replaced or something similar.i love my truck but cannot afford to miss work because my truck is acting up.what kind of test can be done to assure me that all is well internally?Compression?
Simplest test is a good compression test for starters, if there is any major issues it can tell you which cylinder, then a leak down can determine if valve and if so if intake or exhaust or rings...
The tools are not that expensive to purchase and maybe you can rent them I don't know, i just buy what I need so I don't ever have to worry
tool fetish is $$pendy habit to have JM2CW
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
I have a compression tester with the right adapter if you need one. If it was running well and starting OK, you probably don't need much else other than the fuel system help. These engines are pretty stout inside and last a long time.
For an 89 with only 80k miles (per his Sig) is hard to believe, but possible. If thats true, then it isn't even broke in yet. Just wondering why you need all those expensive parts. If it where mine, I'd throw a set of BB injectors in it, time it and see how it runs. Save up for a pump in the future. After 20+ years, if it just sat around for along time without being run, thats the worst thing on an engine and components.
mariner45
Full Access Member
As said above, replace the fuel injectors with new BB ones and then run the heck out of the truck. These diesel engines like to work and perform much better when they are made to work properly.
Some years ago my engine was running a bit rough leaving a trail of grey/blue smoke that smelt strongly of unburnt deisel. I immediately thought that the injectors were stuffed so I ordered a new set. In the meantime I decided to use some fuel treatment and doubled the dose using two different additives (power service and kleenflo I think). I then did a run to pick up a bed load of gravel - about 45 mins on a very hilly road (some 6-8% gradients). When loaded I run the heck out of the truck engine (without overheating etc) and could not believe the difference that trip made. Since that day my exhaust has been clear, injector pump seems more responsive and I have a full set of spare new BB injector for "just in case"
.
So, for the few dollars it will cost you, use plenty of fuel treatment and work the engine hard (carefully) - you might be surprised and save yourself some money.
HTH
mariner
Some years ago my engine was running a bit rough leaving a trail of grey/blue smoke that smelt strongly of unburnt deisel. I immediately thought that the injectors were stuffed so I ordered a new set. In the meantime I decided to use some fuel treatment and doubled the dose using two different additives (power service and kleenflo I think). I then did a run to pick up a bed load of gravel - about 45 mins on a very hilly road (some 6-8% gradients). When loaded I run the heck out of the truck engine (without overheating etc) and could not believe the difference that trip made. Since that day my exhaust has been clear, injector pump seems more responsive and I have a full set of spare new BB injector for "just in case"
.So, for the few dollars it will cost you, use plenty of fuel treatment and work the engine hard (carefully) - you might be surprised and save yourself some money.
HTH
mariner
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Our engine cylinders and rings have a condition where the oil creates a glaze or varnish on them. This happens when we don't "heat up" the rings and bores. What this means is drive the engines hard but not to the extent you hurt something. Load it up and find some hills. Burn off this varnish. In the past some rebuilt engines were run very easy and the cylinders got a varnish on them so bad it was almost necessary to machine it out. The owners drove around town breaking in the engines. They didn't put them to work right away. You think a semi is broken in driving around town like an egg is between your foot that the throttle peddle. Nope, they go directly to work earning a living. The best idea to break in our engines is add a ton in the bed and drive it. Other ideas of breaking in rings is put the trans in first. Speed up and slow down till you drive yourself crazy. What this does is breaks the ring in by working both sides of the ring land. It also heats up the ring and cylinder burning off the harmful varnish or glave.
StAugMIA
Registered User
I just got a Baby Moose pump and BB injectors from Mel. What a difference! I have a 1994 7.3 with 175k on it, that was really down on power, but ran fine. Mels stuff woke that baby up! I can really feel the difference in acceleration. Mash the pedal and this thing pulls better than it did when it was new. Haven't had a chance to check the mpg's or hook my 9000lb boat to it, as I just installed it on xmas day. Long story short, don't mess with a used or bargain rebuilt pump. Mels stuff is competitively priced and worth every penny. He's also a wealth of knowledge on the IDI and is happy to talk to you.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well heres another testimonial to what Mel does in his shop. These pumps and BB code injecters are the best items we can add to our engines. From a stock pump called the Baby Moose which is a pump built to stock specs but.. With only the best Stanadyne parts to the oh my.. Whats this new engine Full Moose pump. Mel has 3 or 4 pumps available last I heard from mild to wild. Those that have not installed nor ridden in a Moose pump equipped truck have no idea whats being missed. Too bad its not possible to make a lap around this country giving test rides..
Ok so here is the deal. I have a leak on my return line on drivers side closest to radiator,last return line.when I received my kit from Mel awhile ago I noticed that one cap was different.Basically I got 4 caps with 90's on them instead of 3 and 1 with a single nipple and no exit like my stock one.No big deal I just reused the old cap but know the inside diameter of the return line was too big for the old cap as the new caps had bigger nipples,so on that end I just used an old hose clamp.All was well until a few days later when I was driving my truck to work with the fuel system starving( broken shower head on main tank) that my truck shut off about 4-5 times then the fuel started to dump from engine bay.Finally I figured to switch tanks and that solved that issue then.Ever since then my truck has been leaking fuel from somewhere but it's hard to really tell from where.So my problem is that today I switched out the return line in question and noticed the return line that crosses under the glow plug controller at rear was leaking a bit also at the hard line connection,when I pulled it o look for any cuts or holes it was just soaked in fuel.Looked fine with no scrapes burn marks or anything.I noticed while looking for a leak with truck running I could see what looked like fuel just under the screen for intake and when I turned the truck off it smoked a bit like when the truck overheats but only from the intake.As of right now I don't have any hard start issues but an annoying fuel leak.I need to fix this leak to determine if I need a new pump.
StAugMIA
Registered User
Return Lines
You need to use all four 90 degree nipples. The excess return fuel must be able to make it back to the tank. The return line from the fuel filter connects to the first injector on the passenger side. The 90 line from the front injector on the drivers side connects to the injector pump, to complete the circuit. I'm not an expert by any means, so check with Mel or Icanfixall, but if you don't have your return line making the full circle back to the tank, the pressure is going to make fuel spew out of the weakest connection in the return line set up. Good luck!
You need to use all four 90 degree nipples. The excess return fuel must be able to make it back to the tank. The return line from the fuel filter connects to the first injector on the passenger side. The 90 line from the front injector on the drivers side connects to the injector pump, to complete the circuit. I'm not an expert by any means, so check with Mel or Icanfixall, but if you don't have your return line making the full circle back to the tank, the pressure is going to make fuel spew out of the weakest connection in the return line set up. Good luck!
