Marker Lights Stay On

cubinzkid

Registered User
Joined
Apr 6, 2014
Posts
41
Reaction score
0
Location
American Fork UT
Really at a loss here. I have a 1988 F350, DRW, 7.3 and when I push in the light switch to turn them off, it goes in all the way, but my marker lights (cab lights, parking lights, lights on dually fender, dash light) all stay on, they just slightly dim. I replaced the switch, but nothing changed. Any help?
 

83ford

ford diesel baby
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Posts
1,273
Reaction score
8
Location
calico rock.arkansas.us
Well I mean I have no idea real about lights like that lol but it really sounds like power goin to the switch even with it off and replaced sorry im not more help but maybe find the power that goes it to it and check there


Sent from my Iphone using Tapatalk
 

cubinzkid

Registered User
Joined
Apr 6, 2014
Posts
41
Reaction score
0
Location
American Fork UT
That's what i was thinking, cause I have to disconnect the batteries to turn them off. Once I've disconnected the batteries and then reconnect them, the lights stay off like normal.
 

83ford

ford diesel baby
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Posts
1,273
Reaction score
8
Location
calico rock.arkansas.us
Hell idk im not the greatest with wiring stuff lol but whatever controls the switch is your problem if there is anything


Sent from my Iphone using Tapatalk
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,324
Reaction score
3,897
Location
commiefornia
the first thing i would do is purchase a quality switch, even tho you just bought one, chinese parts may come in box faulty.

also, with the switch out, and batteries disconnected, check with ohm meter and explore melted wires.
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
the first thing i would do is purchase a quality switch, even tho you just bought one, chinese parts may come in box faulty.

also, with the switch out, and batteries disconnected, check with ohm meter and explore melted wires.
First thing I would do is replace the relay that's in the left rear corner of the engine bat, between the vacuum canister and the cruise servo. Should be under a plastic bracket, but could very well have fallen off and is now just resting on the inner fender. In a '88 model there should only be one relay there, it is the one for the dually/tow lights. For 89 and up there can be two of them if the truck has the E4OD transmission, one is again the dually/tow lights relay and the other would be power supply for the E4OD - there really ain't no telling which is which without looking up the wire colors in an EVTM, which is actually an item I highly recommend every IDI owner procures for their truck. Without an EVTM (or help from someone with one) you're more or less flying blind when it comes to things that are less obvious than ignition switch power supply and such, factory EVTMs are still available on ebay for reasonable cost - ours was like $20, yes it was used but so what, it was and still is in very decent shape and perfectly usable.

So yes, relay first, then EVTM. By the sounds of it the relay is possibly "shorting" internally and behaving like a latching relay, our truck has had that happen and 6.9poweredscout also ran into it at some point, those relays are not as sealed as we'd like them to be. Heck we just replaced a batch of four aftermarket ones, same location as the factory dually/tow relay so subject to same environment - one of the four just stopped working, it would get warm but not actually switch the power on as needed, upon opening it there was nothing visually wrong with it, but it still was not activating - decided to play it safe and replaced all four of its kind, should be good again for another couple of years at least.
 

The Warden

MiB Impersonator
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
7,356
Reaction score
35
Location
Fog Bless Pacifica (CA)
One thought, if the other idea don't pan out...do you have a trailer plug with a constant hot (i.e. a 6-way or a 7-way)? I had water get into my 7-way plug and short the plug between the constant-hot and running light leads. The end result was my truck running around with the running lights on even with the switch off. Emptied the water out of the socket and resolved the short, although the plug was ruined and I had to replace it.

Again, that's something to look at real quick, but it's more likely the problem's in the switch or the wiring, as the others described. Good luck with it!
 

cubinzkid

Registered User
Joined
Apr 6, 2014
Posts
41
Reaction score
0
Location
American Fork UT
I checked the harness when replacing the switch, and nothing was burned or corroded.

I'll replace that relay.

No LED lights on the truck.

I do have a 5th wheel connector that could have gotten water in it, I'll take a a look.
Thanks for all the help guess! I'll let you know what the problems turns out being.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
One thought, if the other idea don't pan out...do you have a trailer plug with a constant hot (i.e. a 6-way or a 7-way)? I had water get into my 7-way plug and short the plug between the constant-hot and running light leads. The end result was my truck running around with the running lights on even with the switch off. Emptied the water out of the socket and resolved the short, although the plug was ruined and I had to replace it.

Again, that's something to look at real quick, but it's more likely the problem's in the switch or the wiring, as the others described. Good luck with it!

This! I had a trailer with a bad wire and every time I would step on the brakes the dash lights would come on. Drove me nuts finding it. Go over your trailer light wiring.
 

jaluhn83

Full Access Member
Joined
May 19, 2012
Posts
1,597
Reaction score
48
Location
Upper Marlboro, MD
Looking at the wiring diagram I have, it does not seem likely that it's a relay issue at least not as LCAM mentioned - the relay switches the marker lights, but the cab top lights and dash lights are run off the switch, not the relay. If the relay was stuck on, these would not be on, only the cab/bed side lights.

Certainly possible that the wiring/connector is shorting out at the relay, but I don't think it's the relay itself.

Also possible to have a bad switch, but seems unlikely to me.

Disconnect the radio and warning buzzer - these both tie to the lights and could cause the issue if they were backfeeding somehow.
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
Looking at the wiring diagram I have, it does not seem likely that it's a relay issue at least not as LCAM mentioned - the relay switches the marker lights, but the cab top lights and dash lights are run off the switch, not the relay. If the relay was stuck on, these would not be on, only the cab/bed side lights.

Certainly possible that the wiring/connector is shorting out at the relay, but I don't think it's the relay itself.
Nah, you're right, missed the cab roof lights part. But, we've had that issue as well - in our case someone had creatively rewired the rear ICC lights (the three under the tailgate), don't recall what exactly they had done but the result was once the relay was energized by the switch it would power its own pull coil via the ICC lights back-feeding into the main markers circuit off the switch, resulted in mostly normally bright fender lights and dim everything else. An improperly wired trailer connector can do the same as our ICC lights, especially if it's tied into the bed rear lamps via a breakout harness.

The internally-corroded issue was what 6.9scout ran into with his truck when the fender and rear ICC lights were staying on while everything else was off, the reason I kinda automatically connected that to our truck is that our fog lights were staying on for the same reason.
 
Top