Looseing Coolant Issues

[icanfixall]

As the descripition states. I'm looseing coolant but nothing is showing a puddle or drip or stain anywhere. Exhaust is not sweet smelling either. I have checked all freeze plgs except those two behind the flexplate. I have tightened the hose clamps twice too. I actually found a puddle one under the fron of the engine. Actually the wifey asked... "Is that a leak or is that normal"... So that was a easy fix. I'm leaning towards the heater core. One in a while when I start up the engine after we have been shopping (wich I hate to do with her) or been out to diner (thats enjoyable) I get a fog on the inside windshield. But nothing is dripping down on the passenger side footwell like I have seen it once before. I do know this. Its oem or nothing. I installed two aftermarket cores and they crapped out fairly fast compared to the ford oem core. I suppose I could baypass the core to rule it in or out too. Any thoughts about this. Thanks all...

 

[The Warden]

My first thought was the hose clamps, but you said you already tightened them...it's probably fair to suspect the heater core at this point. Have you done a cooling system pressure test yet?

 

[icanfixall]

Tim... My system holds pressure very well. Sometimes I will smell coolant in the drivers seat but I'm always thinking thats the overflow tank. When I open the drivers side door sometimes I get that coolant smell from that location. Probably time to at least bypass the heater core and removing it to look it over. Its not that big of a job. I know it was the first time I replaced it. Many years ago my stupid neighbor told me its gonna cost around $700.00 for the dealer to replace it. He said they had to remove the complete dash in his tbird and thats how they do it in the trucks... So I removed the dash... Talk about a one man pain in the ass job... Then a few years later I found out just how easy it is to replace one thru the glove box...... Yeah... I sure was pissed at my "friend" but doubley pissed at myself for listening without investigateing the job... It was a lesson learned that I paid for... No harm done either... Just injured pride... Silly pride... So that one of the reasons I offer onyl first hand help here. If I didn't do it I wont tell others to do it.

 

[The Warden]

Makes sense to me, Gary

Even with the system holding pressure well, pumping up the system can help you to find a slow leak...I use my tester for leak detection as much if not more than I use it to see if the system holds pressure

I would pull the cover off the heater core box so you can see it, and see if there's any moisture at all in there...if there is, then you've definitely found your problem. If not, pressurize the cooling system with the cover off so you can see it, then once the system's up to max pressure, snoop around and see if you see any leaks, or even the beginnings of a drip formation. If not, you might have to get the engine up to operating temperature, then repeat the test...sometimes you get something that doesn't show a leak until it's heated up and has a chance to expand.

With that said, especially with getting fog and coolant smells in the cab, I'd say 75% it's the heater core. Fortunately you know now how easy of a job it is...just be thankful our truck has factory a/c; I've read the procedure on non-a/c trucks and it looks like you have to pull the entire dash for that one

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

rad cap? after i did my cooling system i was loosing coolant at a decent rate. tested my cap and it was no good. got a new cap on there and stopped loosing coolant. i also had no signs of leaks.

 

[typ4]

Just take the damn heater core out and take it and get it tested, I thought there was a shop called hawthorne rad we used and they didsome kick ass work. Also a good shop can add solder to make the ends stronger, aluminum cores suck, factory ones arent much better IMO. Gotta remember they are all coming out of mexico or thailand, even the oem.

 

[Brimmstone]

I was dealing with the same issue and it was that my cap was too weak. Factory is a 13lb cap. I was loosing coolant regular with no signs. Finally got mad and bought a 16lb stant lever cap. No more coolant loss and the trucks running temp dropped 5 degrees. Win on all fronts as far as I'm concerned.

 

[sle2115]

Screw OEM for me...I've put three in in about as many years! I went to Oreilly's and got an aluminum one this time, half the price, lifetime warranty. what the hell, if I'm gonna have to replace it every year, might as well let someone else pay for the core! Of course, I've never been a fan of much OEM stuff, aftermarket generally has a better product, I've found that to be true 90% of the time, electrical is the only thing I've found where SOMETIMES OEM is best.

 

[chvycmnslvr68]

on my truck the recovery tank has a crack in it .. it always pushes out a little coolant and it wont even get to proper operating temp ... but w/o the recovery tank there is always a slight coolant loss ... not enough to worry about ... but thats a chebby ... dont have much experience on fords ... good luck

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Gary, with the bricknose, yank the cover off and inspect the heater core. Its literally a 15 minute job to replace, taking the cover off to have a look is about 5 minutes with a 8mm socket.

My aftermarket Advance auto parts heater core fit like crap and leaked upon install.