Motor work. Bent rods, loose lifter,

[Minuteman96]

Alright so the other day, my motor started missing and within 5 minutes of it startin to miss, the damn thing went nuts. It developed this ticking noise that sounded like a little man inside the motor was banging on the walls trying to get out. It was LOUD. I drove it another 2 minutes after that (probably poor judgement on my part) and right as I’m getting on the highway, the knocking gets louder and the motor starts shaking the truck like I’m going 40 mph over a large rock bed. I immediately pull over and kill the truck. I give it a minute, start it up and the shaking isn’t as strong but still that loud knocking noise. Kill it. I start it one last time after 5 minutes or so, runs for about 2 seconds and then I hear a metallic rattling noise that sounds like someone through a 1 inch bolt into the intake. It sounded terrible. Got a tow and today I started ripping into it. Truck is a 93 F250 with a 94 NA motor. No idea the miles, maybe around 180k but the guy that sold it to me could’ve been full of it.

I found a few pushrods that have a little play (idk if that’s normal or not) one rod that’s bent with the lifter very loose. It’s also seems like some of the lifters are protruding out a little farther than others. Is that normal? I’ve attached pictures and a video. With all this said, I have to ask what is the way to go as far as new rods and lifters? Brand, etc.

Also, as much as I don’t want too, nor do I have the time really to, would you recommend I pull heads? I’ve got driver side valve covers off and everything looked okay. Going to get the passenger side off which is the side with bent rod and screwed lifter. What things should I be looking for? Any other recommendations as far as parts I should install while I’m in this deep are welcome. Might even finally put in a turbo. Been wanting to for awhile now.

Here’s the video of the rod and lifter:

IMG_5424.MOV

drive.google.com

Thanks.

 

[DrCharles]

Sorry to hear that. You might try a borescope through the injector hole, before pulling the head(s). I hope a glow plug tip didn't break off and fall into that cylinder, or some other foreign body...

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Ok just to be sure I'm on the same page here. I am going to assume when you say bent rod, your meaning push rod?

And the lifters that are sticking out further is normal, they are up on the cam lobes to open the valves. Now if they are up and the rocker is still loose (as in valve not open) there could be some issues.

James

 

[Minuteman96]

Ok just to be sure I'm on the same page here. I am going to assume when you say bent rod, your meaning push rod?

And the lifters that are sticking out further is normal, they are up on the cam lobes to open the valves. Now if they are up and the rocker is still loose (as in valve not open) there could be some issues.

James

Yes bent push rod. You can see it in one of the pictures, although I know they aren’t great pictures. 5th back on the passenger side. That’s also the one with the messed up lifter.

 

[Jesus Freak]

You're in this deep, go the distance if you can. But I'm of the financial group that does what they can when they can, so if you can't go the distance do as little as possible to make it happen.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I say pull the heads. That way you can see if a valve and piston made contact. Something made that push rod bend. It didn't bend on it's own. As for brands, I stick with bigger names like Sealed Power, Melling, etc. I believe that I used Sealed Power push rods when I overhauled my engine a few years back. I don't remember what brand of lifters I used.

 

[Minuteman96]

I say pull the heads. That way you can see if a valve and piston made contact. Something made that push rod bend. It didn't bend on it's own. As for brands, I stick with bigger names like Sealed Power, Melling, etc. I believe that I used Sealed Power push rods when I overhauled my engine a few years back. I don't remember what brand of lifters I used.

Pulling the heads requires removal of that air box on the fire wall, I’d imagine? And can you pull them out without a hoist/by hand? I’m not a weakling and am not afraid of a little hard work, but I don’t want to kill my back neither lol. Also might invest in a borescope to take a look before pulling them, as Charles recommended. Wouldn’t be a bad tool to have around even if I do end up having to pull them.

 

[Jesus Freak]

You can get them out, but it's a pain in the neck...... and back. The bolts by the air box take some finagling, like pull them up about halfway and put a zip tie around them and bring them out with the head. You have to have them zip tied and sitting in the head when you put it back on too. Use a engine hoist to lift them...... and a friend

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You can get them out, but it's a pain in the neck...... and back. The bolts by the air box take some finagling, like pull them up about halfway and put a zip tie around them and bring them out with the head. You have to have them zip tied and sitting in the head when you put it back on too.

Exactly.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And can you pull them out without a hoist/by hand? I’m not a weakling and am not afraid of a little hard work, but I don’t want to kill my back neither lol.

Yes you can. When I was young and dumb(er) I did that several times. I would use a bungle of shop rags to rest me head on and then have a kind of tripod (head and two legs) to help me pull them off and install them. I feel that helped immensely. These heads are about 100 lbs each. If you can hold 100 lbs pretty much at arm's length and keep it steady for a time, then you might not need to use my tripod method. Honestly, even though you probably don't want to hear it, when I used to work on these for a living, our (my) method was that if one head needed to come off, do it in the truck. If both needed to come off, pull the engine out. It was about as fast, easier to do, and there was a much less chance of damaging a head gasket.

Also might invest in a borescope to take a look before pulling them, as Charles recommended

Not a bad idea, but you won't be able to see past the precups in the heads so you won't be able to see the pistons.

 

[Minuteman96]

Yes you can. When I was young and dumb(er) I did that several times. I would use a bungle of shop rags to rest me head on and then have a kind of tripod (head and two legs) to help me pull them off and install them. I feel that helped immensely. These heads are about 100 lbs each. If you can hold 100 lbs pretty much at arm's length and keep it steady for a time, then you might not need to use my tripod method. Honestly, even though you probably don't want to hear it, when I used to work on these for a living, our (my) method was that if one head needed to come off, do it in the truck. If both needed to come off, pull the engine out. It was about as fast, easier to do, and there was a much less chance of damaging a head gasket.

Not a bad idea, but you won't be able to see past the precups in the heads so you won't be able to see the pistons.

If I had all the time in the world I’d yank the motor and do a full rebuild no problem. I’m curious if the hammered lifter could’ve caused that rod to bend? If it’s a possibility, it might be worth the risk on my end to put in new rods and lifters, see how the truck runs, god forbid the problem is worse, I know it’s just worth it to yank the whole thing at that point and get to the root of the problem. I might be out 30-40$ of a new lifter or rod if they get screwed up again, but worse things have happened. Am I flawed in this thinking?

 

[hacked89]

If I had all the time in the world I’d yank the motor and do a full rebuild no problem. I’m curious if the hammered lifter could’ve caused that rod to bend? If it’s a possibility, it might be worth the risk on my end to put in new rods and lifters, see how the truck runs, god forbid the problem is worse, I know it’s just worth it to yank the whole thing at that point and get to the root of the problem. I might be out 30-40$ of a new lifter or rod if they get screwed up again, but worse things have happened. Am I flawed in this thinking?

what’s the root cause you are suggesting that wouldn’t happen again with a new lifter and rod?

 

[DaveBen]

Valves hitting the pistons is the main cause of bent rods. Why the pistons and valves collide will be the reason to rebuild your engine. Hoping that something unlikely caused the bent rods is a waste of time and thought. Take it apart and LOOK!

 

[hacked89]

Valves hitting the pistons is the main cause of bent rods. Why the pistons and valves collide will be the reason to rebuild your engine. Hoping that something unlikely caused the bent rods is a waste of time and thought. Take it apart and LOOK!

X2 that was the point of my question

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Valves hitting the pistons is the main cause of bent rods.

This is why I suggested pulling the heads off and looking at the pistons. If you run with valve and piston contact long, it could bend a piston rod. Since you said that you had a loud knocking sound, there is a possibility of internal engine damage. The shaking while the engine was running was, most likely, because it was only running fully on 7 cylinders due to the bent push rod. Can a bad lifter cause the push rod to bend? Yes if it happened to lock in the fully decompressed (extended) position. I don't know why that would happen. Lifters usually fail to open the valve far enough, not hold it open. They can also have the bushings in the roller part (in early lifters) come apart which causes a failed lifter. If it did lock fully extended, the push rod bent from the valve and piston hitting.