Look what I get to do for my B-Day

[tom37]

Up until now I haven't really posted much anything as far as getting my beauty ready for the road.

Today I finished up the brakes, just shoes and an axle seal thats been leaking for many years along with new hardware. The fronts got rotors, new calipers and shoes along with a clean and repack on the bearings.

A while back I went thru and replaced all the rusty brake lines.

The old gooseneck hitch was welded to the frame and sometime thru its life it became bent pretty bad, I'm guessing maybe stuck real good and a tow truck with a dandy winch. So that got cut off, letting the frame come back pretty close to straight. A set of rear springs from U-pick-it, 5 leafs, 20 bucks a piece.

A fantastic rear bumper, 10 inch drop with a 5/8" flat plate and brackets clear to the frame.

I did up the door hinges and latch's, now they shut like new.

#1 and #8 GP's were replaced letting the control work much better but still not perfect. Both came out tough but in one piece.

Also cured the Fat man syndrome that had attacked the tilt column.


The boss let me have off tues to make a long weekend. The plan was to finish all of the above, along with getting the front end alignment.


This is where everything went critically WRONG.

About 6:00 tonight I was eating dinner and planning on picking up all the tools and old parts.

With everything picked up and put away(at that point I was able to find tools again)

So I grabbed the 6 GP's not yet installed and figured no problem, I can get these by dark. I should have been done and ready for the return kit from typ4 and then I would be ready to burn oil.

Welp #1 turned hard right from the start, so I worked it both directions, still turning really hard. Then WAMO, it turned easy, at that point I said many many bad words. Didn't even make me feel better.

The broken portion is stuck in the hole.

So I got the AC, airpump, alt, misc brackets out of the way. I guess tomorrow I will pull the rest of the misc items off the top of the motor and yank the heads.

I'm thinking,

1 the gasket kit of course.
2 a new valley pan if its not part of the gasket.
3 looking for opinions on if I should replace the lift pump or not while I got it apart.
4 if the fuel lines aren't leaking then reuse them
5 new heater lines and rad hoses
6 yank the rad and get it checked out
7 the tuna can crankcase vent should go

I don't think I can afford a IP right now. Based on what I have found so far I believe that the truck has 153,000 on it, the clock shows 53,000 so I'm just guessing.

I would greatly appreciate any input on the items that I should defiantly go after while I have it apart.

 

[93f250idi]

not sure i would pull the head just yet. IIRC you can get the piston TDC and try to use compresed air to push the tip out, this would be done by removing the injector. if that doesnt work, then with the piston still at TDC you can try try to knock tip back into the cylinder and suck it out threw the injector hole. im not 100% sure on this so maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[RLDSL]

Use the search feature here on this site extensivly for that subject, numerous emergency retrieval methods of varrying success have been covered heavily.

If the heads have to come off,search that as well. You will most likely want to purchase a new CDR ( tuna can crancase vent)at that age the innards are most likely gone

 

[tom37]

Well about all I can say is that I may be heading down the road to being on the right track.

I had already pulled the extra's from the front of the motor along with the IP.
Its not all a loss since now I can stick a thermostat in it with ease along with the lift pump. I guess I'm silly and want the peace of mind, not that either of the two could go out next month.

It took several hours during the off and on rain showers searching for an explanation to get the motor to top dead center. At least one that I could wrap my brain around. I set telephone poles for a living, not turn wrench's.

With the injector out and the brand new 5 hp shop vac adapted down to fit in the injector hole, I knocked the old GP tip into the chamber. I gave it a shot of air and felt the tip go up the hose.

Boy Howdy, I am one happy camper now.

Thank You gents for derailing me from pulling the heads right away.

I shall offer an update later tonight after I finish the rest of the GP's.

 

[FordGuy100]

An that sure is lucky! Usually that trick doesnt work but I'm glad it did

 

[towtruckdave]

Happy B-Day!

 

[seawalkersee]

Independence huh? Good to know I FINALLY have someone on this side of the state. Minutes away no less. List your vehicle and stuff about it in your sig when you have questions about this sort of thing.

Lines: Unless they are a leakin, dont worrry about replacing them as a new set is costly.
Lift Pump: A great many guys swap them for electric ones here. I would replace it for cheap insurance as if the diaphram goes, it leaks the diesel into the pan and lunches your lower end.
Coolant: I use the cat coolant from the cat dealer off of Parvin Rd and 435. Supposed to have the SCAs already added. I can get you the PN if you need it.

The rest of the stuff is really up to you. If you learn nothing from this, know that if you cut a corner here, you will pay like hell down the road.

If you have a 6.9, the GP setup should be converted to a 7.3 system which uses the Breu bullet tip glow plugs. They work better and last longer. When I first got mine, I went through 2 set of GPs until I switched over after less than 6 mos of driving it.

SWS

 

[tom37]

Well here it is.

#6 took just barley a crack and it came out by hand, with no tip on it.

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And then the injector looks beat up a bit.

You must be registered for see images attach

Also the same on #8 but the injector looks fine.

Now I felt #1 break and then it came out really easy. I could see the fresh metal where it broke. #6 and #8 offered no resistance at all, and look pretty well covered in carbon.

This is the point where I am open to the thoughts of wisdom.
I shop vac'ed both but got no solids, just fine black particles. I would like to think that it may have passed but I just don't know.

Any thoughts?

Hey SWS, glad to see there is someone close, in case I ever get in a real bad jam and need a consult. I'm right up 23rd st west of 291.

I forgot to mention that it has the 7.3 gp system I do believe, since it has the bullet tip GP's.
If memory serves me correct the door sticker states it was built in the latter half of 87.

 

[seawalkersee]

Is it a REALLY clean 2 tone? Did you get it from a guy named Dave on Pleasant?

As far as the injectors go, the part that looks beat up, is no big deal. Everything above the copper ring in that pic is not subject to combustion gasses/pressures etc. The carbon there is from oil getting hot in the head. Put some antisieze on it next time and you will be golden. The tips SEEM to have been gone for a while. You will know when you break them...On that note, that right there can/could be caused by the IP being too advanced from what I understand. I have not seen it first hand, but have heard about it.

What kind of GPs did you purchase? If you got them from AutoZone or something of the sort at $3 ish bux a piece, you are wasting your money. Get the Breus from Motorcraft and there will not be a problem.

You on 23rd or Queen Ridge/Ellison Way/Trail Ridge?

SWS

 

[tom37]

Actually if you took ellison way thru the woods going northwest you would end up in the culdesac at the end of my street. Im on Elm.

As far as the truck goes body wise, its decent. The pass door has a little rust on it but the fender is good. The drivers fender is gone for all intent and purpose, the door could take a sanding and a little paint and be all right for a few years.

As far as I have seen, there is only one spot in the cab, drivers side left heal when on the clutch. Its not clear thru so I may not worry about it much. Yet. And I cant say that I got the one on pleasant. Mine came from McLouth Ks. A farmer had it in Tongie and hauled cattle to St Joe with it. One owner according to the title. Well a middle man between the two of us but I don't count that. This truck was gonna go to the scrap but I came across it.

Now that I have been thinking, I bet, when I changed out the two GP's that were showing bad. The stress of actually working may have finished off the two that were missing today.

Oh yes, I got the Breu's, 11 ish I think it was.

 

[OLDBULL8]

This may help ya. And happy B-Day

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left (passenger USA) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side (USA), front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.

If you have it at TDC then a vacuum on the injector hole and spritzes of air into the GP hole should clear the precup area of any debris but not liquid on the piston top.

 

[seawalkersee]

Cool. I can say that I LOVE mine. It has almost ALL new parts on and in it (Just got it running). Working on a few other things prior to getting it timed so I can hopefully improve my milage. Before the rebuild, I was about 18ish and drove it harder than I drive it now at 14. The changes are a cam, ported heads, and a baby moose. It is still fairly cheap to drive since I am running a ton of WMO, but I still want 20 prior to the lift.

If I were you, I would do a block off plate and run an electric pump. Helps get it started like you read about. Crack the lines and turn on the pump and it will go. Also, I stepped up to a DB Electrical starter (higher torque and speed) which makes starting a breeze. Fires up like a carbed gasser. Don't know your plans but if you are going to play with it, you may want to get a pyro as these are not computer contorlled and can not pull fuel if they start to get hot.

If you do not plan on the starter upgrade, I will give you one of my spares just so you have one.

The other upgrade I really like is the serp belt from a 7.3. I am also going to get the hook up from a late powerstroke with an 8 rib belt. When I do that, I can give you all of my pullies, but you will need the different brakcets since there is an idleer pully and tensioner.

SWS

 

[tom37]

Thank You Oldbull8,

That is exactly what I was looking for this AM, I found one very similar and wrote it down on a sticky pad. That way I can loose it on the desk vs in the computer somewhere.

Thank You also for the happy b day,,,, I was actually a little early since its not till midnight tonight. HeHeHe,,,, I was counting it as the whole weekend.

SWS,

I guess for now I am gonna stay with the lift pump thats in it, as well as the thermo. Its only a few minutes to yank the alt and brackets, now that I got all the grease off of them.

Judging from the size of the wasp nest in the front tank filler I would have to say, this truck sat for a long long time.

Once I got it to fire and run, its starts decently easy. Maybe a 3 sec crank time when cold. And it pops right off when its warm. I have a return kit coming when typ4 gets back in town. That should correct my 3 sec crank time when cold.

My biggest thing is getting it rollin so I have a decent rig to pull my trailer at the end of the month.

I think that unless someone has a different opinion, that I will pop it back together in the morning. The missing GP's just worried me a little.

I'd like to get with ya sometime after I get mine running so I can compare the power from mine to yours with mods complete.

 

[seawalkersee]

Right now mine is slower than I think it should be. If you are going like 55-60 it runs like a scalded dog. But with the larger tires, 3.50 gears, and the NP435, there is crap for power in the lower RPMs on the hills. If it is on flat ground, it pulls pretty good.

SWS

 

[tom37]

Almost back together but I have a couple guestions.

First off, the CDR.... Its off, came out with the hose attached and lifted from the intake valley pan with ease.

Question is. I'm getting a little tight on money, what should I do?

Plug the holes and run a RDT? I saw a thread where a guy made an adapter for the oil cap and ran a hose. I didnt so much like that but I could easily drill a hole in the cover where you access the three bolts for the IP, and weld a 90 degree fitting to it. Then run the tube down under. Would say, 1/1/4" tubing be sufficient? And if so, any ideas to plug the two holes left from the CDR being gone?

Next is this sensor. I really don't know what its for but I am guessing its a temp sensor for the GP's. It looks to me like there was 2 tabs for spade connectors to hook to. Problem is that the there is two wires in the harness and both are bare wire. One has a trashed spade connector and the other was hooked to the sensor. There was so much gunk on and around it I can't say if the other wire was hooked up or not. If I need a new sensor, now is the time to do it since the thermostat housing is off and the alt bracket is out of the way. Any insite on this would be much appericated, I am trying to get it up and running so that I can take it and get my inspection on it tomorrow.

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Next up is,

I seem to have lost track of the body side of the tach sensor harness. Can anyone either tell me where it runs to or take a peak under there hood and see where the other side of this connector runs to. I know it oughtta be easy enough to find but I am missing it somehow.

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Its hard to see in my pic, but the two wires are coming out of the tach sensor and lay up and to the left with the round two pin plug laying on the timing cover.

I said I wasn't gonna do it, but I went ahead and put the lift pump on. New heater hose and rad hose's, had to order the thermostat, should be here in the AM. Got all new belts, and put valve cover gaskets on since I do believe there is more oil on the exhaust then in the pan.

And to make things even better, I still don't know how well this thing is gonna make power. I just have to hope for the best I guess. After spending this whole weekend on it, it better at least pull half way decent.

Thanks For all the help guys.