Is my trailer hitch strong enough?

typ4

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So i got to looking at my trailer hitch, and a bronco i also have.....and the hitches are identical. In looking at the hitch it seems light duty for a truck that tows 10k+. With a 4' pry bar inserted into the hitch, my 190lbs can deflect it down maybe a 1/16-1/8" My question is, is this hitch up to the task? Or should i build a new one or buy one like this?

Here is the current hitch. It is very similar to most i have seen of this era.
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I have that magnum, it is a great one, just dont use the factory bolts, they are carriage bolts, not grade8, I used 9/16 nf lawson bolts and thier heavy washers, almost 1/4 thick, and the crimped locknuts, it wont be coming off.
 

tom37

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tom37....that's sweet. i may be copying that.

Awesome deal!!!

I think that the way I had it to start with would have been fine but I just feel better having the second square tube. It just seemed like alot of weight causing the twist effect when I use the WD hitch. I lucked out since I built it to fit my 95 2wd with a standard bumper. The 87 has a drop bumper so I had to position the hitch further forward and it just barley fit. I think with just a touch of planning, it wouldn't be to tough to make it where the spare tire could fit above the hitch.
 

oldmisterbill

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I have that magnum, it is a great one, just dont use the factory bolts, they are carriage bolts, not grade8, I used 9/16 nf lawson bolts and thier heavy washers, almost 1/4 thick, and the crimped locknuts, it wont be coming off.

I definatley agree on the grade 8. I use grade 8 crimpnuts also ,they will never loosen. Heavy graded flat washers & crimp nuts are the way to go. Split lock washers are just beggin for troubble. Also on my snow plow frames the crimp (or self lockin nuts & NOT nylocks) nuts stopped the constant loosening that plowing for days on end can cause. And I mean perminatley stop loosening.
 

pennsylvaniabo

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Bumpity......anyone else here build one? Also I am thinking on using come 1/4 wall 10" c channel, some 2"x4" 3/16 wall tube for crossmembers, and then some 1/4 plate for some reinforcements.

Would this be strong enough?
 

Diesel_brad

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Now I think you are getting carried away. I have never seen a hitch fail unless it was rusted to nothing. And that was at the pulls with some ******** slamming against the chain
 

pennsylvaniabo

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Now I think you are getting carried away. I have never seen a hitch fail unless it was rusted to nothing. And that was at the pulls with some ******** slamming against the chain

Im not trying to over do it, just asking of ppl think those would be suitable because i have lots of it left over from other projects. It's calle free materials. A whole lot cheaper than buying a reese or curt replacement for my light duty one.
 

Diesel_brad

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Im not trying to over do it, just asking of ppl think those would be suitable because i have lots of it left over from other projects. It's calle free materials. A whole lot cheaper than buying a reese or curt replacement for my light duty one.

10" C-channel is complete overkill. And Unless you have tapered washers to make up for the angle of the "C" you will be stressing the bolts
 

pennsylvaniabo

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We shall see. the 10" channel will be modified. for height. as for the angle...idk that it will the that big of a deal really. Plus fastenal sells taper washers.


On the same note 1/2" bolts or 5/8 bolts?
 
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Diesel_brad

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1/2"

On another note. how is your frame? Because 1/4" channel is thicker than your frame was original, no less after 20 PA winters
 

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