inline IP?

[hesutton]

Just wanted to add a few photos for the size difference between the DB2 and a Bosch 6 cylinder P-pump. An 8 cylinder version will obviously be larger. The DB2 is a Moose pump for my 6.9 rebuild in the crew cab. The P-pump is a Hypermax modified (1100+cc) beast for my DT466.

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Again, length and weight are issues that need to be addressed before one of these big in line pumps can work on our IDI's. I hope to see someone pull it off and I think that would really open a whole new world for these engines.

Heath

 

[gingrass179]

it appears the 9.0 international pump is not quite as tall but a bit longer....to bad they are only good for 110cc i dont see the mods being worth it putting on the international pump...i dont know what the 3208s can flow so i have no input on them but would love if some one could tell me what they push stock...i only see the inline ip being worth it if you can buy a pump and just put it in not sent out and machined to fit larger plungers and flow more...that negates what its worth as a budget pump for power if you have to pay for it twice...if i could find a pump that would be capable of 160-180cc i would jump on it and start my process of machining a gear, building intake manifold and most likely would have to do something about the valley pan i.e. cut out the center and drop it an inch or two for room for the pump...its being proven we can get decent power that is reliable out of our old goats we just have to come up with a good budget friendly way to do so...i see LC pistons being mandatory but other than that our bottom end will hold 400 to the wheels for years....other than that for major mods is up pipes, turbo and cam. get these into corrulation with each other and i say we could see 18-20 mpg with a good tune to be able to release the exhaust gasses for a good spool but keep cylinder pressure in to harness the power so all that nice fuel can be gobbled right up by the air...it is a very delicate limbo to be able to do all this. and i dont care what you guys say nmb2 is on the right track...(im not turning this into a ******* match just my opinion) yes he is only seeing 14 mpg...but he is seeing that empty or loaded...so that says he is poorly poorly tuned at this time...he is experiencing bad turbo lag now because his exhaust housing is too large so he cant get his flow till it is to late to get the bottom end torque needed for the mpgs...he is currently going with a larger compressor wheel, larger turbine wheel with one less blade ( more surface area for drive pressure) and a smaller housing (quicker spool giving the engine what it needs right away instead of starving it til it hits the top)...right now he is at 9.5* which is letting him get his air out too spool the turbo decently but he isnt being able to keep his pressure in the cylinders very long...so at 6* he will be able to spool good (cause the smaller turbine housing and increased drive pressure) and keep his cylinder pressure...i believe real soon you will see him at 350 to the wheels and seeing 18-20 mpg...saying that im already on the start of working out a complete setup for our idis (up pipes, turbo, cam, ip, manifold etc)it will be on the budget side of things and the kit wont be 350rwhp but prob more like 225/250 efficient horsepower...so in saying that the ih 9.0 could be used for this setup as the pump would then not cost too much for a replacement and would have the fuel to deliver...im looking more in the 350whp range for my build tho...so i will need all of 160 to make this possible

 

[88 Ford]

As far as the IH pump goes, can't you just add a fuel plate in a Bosch pump to increase fuel? Isn't that what most 12V guys do to achieve 400hp?

 

[Dave 001]

......if i could find a pump that would be capable of 160-180cc i would jump on it and start my process of machining a gear, building intake manifold and most likely would have to do something about the valley pan i.e. cut out the center and drop it an inch or two for room for the pump.....

Mount the injection pump to the engine like you would mount an alternator or power steering pump and drive it with a cogged belt (a.k.a. timing belt). Drive it 2:1 ratio off of the crank. Ford 2.0 or 2.3L crank sprocket, cam sprocket, and timing belt = cheap. This will reqire no modifications to the intake manifold or valley pan. The stock injection pump mount housing could be completely removed and a flat plate fabricated to replace it.

It will, however, require slightly longer injector line.

Dave

 

[88 Ford]

Wouldn't there be a problem if the belt wears out and or snaps? Wouldn't that make it hard to retime it?

 

[chvycmnslvr68]

Mount the injection pump to the engine like you would mount an alternator or power steering pump and drive it with a cogged belt (a.k.a. timing belt). Drive it 2:1 ratio off of the crank. Ford 2.0 or 2.3L crank sprocket, cam sprocket, and timing belt = cheap. This will reqire no modifications to the intake manifold or valley pan. The stock injection pump mount housing could be completely removed and a flat plate fabricated to replace it.

It will, however, require slightly longer injector line.

Dave

My 2.2 liter Isuzu has a timing belt driven injection pump on it from the factory .. and as far as P-type pumps go ... they make a bosch P-pump ... that is a V-8 pump ... they came on the 3208 cats and are pretty common in older ford 2.5 to 5 ton trucks ... the engines were pretty high maintenance but the pumps should be fairly easy to adapt right into the valley of a 7.3 or 6.9 engine ... GM also had an engine that used this pump ( I believe it was the 803 also called the Fuel Mizer ) as did Int'l .. it was a pre DT engine slightly larger than a 7.3 .. but looking at one one time I figured that the pump would bolt right on the 7.3

 

[Dave 001]

Wouldn't there be a problem if the belt wears out and or snaps? Wouldn't that make it hard to retime it?

Many modern timing belts go 100,000 miles before a recommended replacement. Many never even get replaced and go much longer.

If it snaps, it's no different than if it snaps when used for an OHC engine.......the engine stops. (You should have replaced it when the manufacturer recommended it!)

Would it be hard to retime?....No harder than when the custom engine was originally built/designed. Actually things are usually easier the second time around.

In my opinion, an injection pump will put less load on a timing belt than the camshaft/intake/exhaust valve arrangement.

Dave

 

[Dave 001]

Here's a GM 6.2 with dual injection pumps and cogged belt drive......

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[Dave 001]

gingrass179,

Remove the factory injection pump, timing gear, and housing. Seal off the hole where the housing was with an aluminum plate. Make custom brackets to mount an inline injection pump basically above the new plate. Drive the injection pump with a timing belt down to the crankshaft. Use two idler pulleys to route the timing belt in a diamond pattern to get the timing belt around the water pump.....similar to how Ford routed the generator belt on a flathead.

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See how easy that was!?!? It's always easy just thinking about it, especially when I'm not the one building it.

Good luck. Pictures of whatever you do would be great.

Dave